By Alfred EisenstaedtLIFE Photo Collection
Bakers have to be morning people. They still have to get up very early to make the first bread of the morning, even though the use of baker's yeast fundamentally changed the French baking profession in the 20th century. In the past, bakers would be up through the night like night watchmen, getting up in the evening and going to bed after lunch.
Nowadays, the baker's hours have changed. Their day starts in the early hours of the morning and is spread out over a number of hours, in line with the fermentation, baking and sale of bread.
By Ted ThaiLIFE Photo Collection
3:00 a.m.
"Rise and shine" and the first "juice" (an old-fashioned term for coffee) of the day. Bakers need a clear head early in the morning. Because of this, they are generally big coffee drinkers.
P. Gosselin at work by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
4:00 a.m.
Arrival at the bakehouse through the so-called "stage door." The baker dons their uniform, a white cotton vest or a simple T-shirt if it's too hot near the oven.
P. Gosselin at work by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
4:30 a.m.
Firing up the bread oven (deck oven) and checking on the starters.
Bakery Gosselin by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
4:30–5:00 a.m.
Opening the proving cabinet and inspecting the ordinary baguettes made the evening before. The dough for the traditional baguettes isn't made in advance; it's in a tub in the refrigerator.
P. Gosselin at work by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
5:00 a.m.
Preparing the traditional baguettes. Dividing up the dough and shaping the baguettes. Checking and weighing the buttery pastry dough: puff pastry, brioche dough and croissant dough.
Bakery Gosselin by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
5:00–6:00 a.m.
Second proof for the traditional baguettes. The second fermentation stage after the baguettes are shaped takes around 1.5 hours.
Bakery Gosselin by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
6:00–6:30 a.m.
Baking the first baguettes. Cutting the incisions into the top and inserting them in the oven.
P. Gosselin at work by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
6:30 a.m.
Taking out the first baguettes of the day, before putting them in baskets and taking them up to the store. Baguettes will be made throughout the day, with the last to be baked in the afternoon.
Bakery Gosselin, Paris by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
6:30–7:00 a.m.
Setting up the boulangerie before opening time.
[Le Grand Hotel and Café de la Paix, Paris] (1862–1881) by UnknownThe J. Paul Getty Museum
7:30 a.m.
Delivering baguettes to cafés and restaurants.
Bakery Gosselin, Paris by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
7:00–8:00 a.m.
Opening the boulangerie and the arrival of the first customers of the day. Baking specialty loaves.
Bakery Gosselin by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
08:30–10:00
Moving between baking bread and preparing and decorating pastries.
Bakery Gosselin, Paris by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
Bakery Gosselin by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
10:00–11:00
Preparing bread for the evening and the next day (sourdough loaves with long fermentation periods). Kneading various types of dough.
11:00 a.m. – The baker has a snack before their customers take lunch.
Bakery Gosselin, Paris by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
11:00 a.m.–12:00 p.m.
Preparing sandwiches for lunchtime.
Bakery Gosselin, Paris by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
12:00–2:00 p.m.
All hands on deck in the store for the lunchtime rush.
P. Gosselin at work by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
3:00–4:00 p.m.
Taking stock of base ingredients (flour, butter, fruit, etc.) and a phone call to the suppliers to make orders. Admin work in the office and managing team planning.
Bakery Gosselin, Paris by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
4:00–5:00 p.m.
The second rush hour in the store as school's out and a mid-afternoon snack: baguettes and pains au chocolat.
P. Gosselin at work by Thomas DéronSociété nationale des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France
5:00 p.m.
Kneading tomorrow's first batches and baking the last baguettes of the evening.
6:00–7:00 p.m. – The baker puts out the fires across the bakehouse and sells the last few loaves in the store before customers take dinner and restaurants serve food.
8:00–11:00 p.m. – The baker allows themself to rest at home, when they don't have to go back to their responsibilities. Then, they'll go to bed at around 10 or 11 p.m. Bakers sleep while their starters, which are living things, and their bread dough do their own work.
Report made in Boulangerie Gosselin at Paris
Vincent Ferniot
