Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
The Angami Naga tribe is known for its tradition of cane and bamboo basketry. The khophi, a utility basket for carrying things, is its signature basket. The weave may vary, depending on the purpose for which the basket is used. A fine basket, especially one that is made as a gift for a special occasion like a marriage, is woven of thin strips of closely woven cane. It can take up to a whole month for an accomplished craftsman to make such a piece.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The signature basket of the Angamis, the khophi is a utility basket for carrying things.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Bamboo and cane, found locally, are gathered and split for basketry.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The desired width of splits is attained with the use of traditional tools.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A craftsman’s workshed has raw materials and tools stored for use.
Angami Basket: The master crafstman in his workshop (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Traditionally, the split bamboo and cane was stored in a rack over the woodstove (top right in the image).
The smoke from the fire treated the material, fumigating it of pests. It also gave it a rich dark hue.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The craftsmen use simple equipment for their exquisite craft. A bamboo frame is used as a template for the form of the basket.
A saw, a dao (traditional broad blade machete), a cutter and a pin are the only tools used.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Additionally, the craftsman always has a container of water at hand, in which he softens the cane to bend and weave it. The weaving of the basket starts with its base.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Strips of cane are woven together to make a square base.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The bamboo template is used to measure the required dimension of the base.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Once this is attained, the warp and weft are turned upwards to make the sides of the basket.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The lower portion of the sides is made in a reinforced weave to give it strength. The sides are then woven upwards. The bamboo template is fixed within the basket, and the weaving done around it.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Master craftsman, Megokho Tho-u, demonstrates the process of weaving a khophi basket around its bamboo template.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
This helps in attaining the correct flaring form, and extra strips of cane are added to widen the basket as it increases in height and width.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The craftsman weaves the basket to its full length, a few inches beyond the bamboo template.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Once the basket is woven to its full height, its rim is attached.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
This process involves turning the ends of the sides around the rim, while binding the rim in place with another strip of cane.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Binding the rim of the basket with a strip of cane.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The rim is now almost fully attached.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The turned over edges are then clipped.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A frame of bamboo is attached to the woven basket to give it strength and support its structure.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The ends of the frame are flared at the bottom, forming legs on which the basket can stand without any other support.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The legs of the basket help to give the basket a strong structure and also enable it to be free-standing.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Master craftsman Bano Miyase attaching the bamboo legs or the stand of the khophi.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Traditionally, the cane and bamboo splits used for baskets were smoked, and requiring no further treatment for finishing.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03) by Chato Khuotse, master craftsman and National Award recipientDastkari Haat Samiti
Nowadays, fine baskets for use as special gifts on ceremonial occasions are often made on order by master craftsmen. These pieces are finished with a coat of varnish.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The making of the Angami basket requires skill and precision.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03) by Chato Khuotse, master craftsman and National Award recipientDastkari Haat Samiti
The conical form which flares at the top, the uniform tension of the weave, the fine joinery - all demand great dexterity coupled with a drive for perfection.
A fine basket can take a master craftsman a whole month to make, and is indeed a labour of love.
Angami Basket: Khonoma basketry (2018-03)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about the basketry traditions of Nagaland's Angami tribe here:
- The exquisite basketry of the Angami Nagas
- Making of the Angami Basket
Text: Aloka Hiremath
Photography: Subinoy Das
Artisans: Arhi-u-Miyase, Chato Khuotsu and Meghokho Tho-u in Khonoma, Bano Miyase in Dzuleke
Ground Facilitation: Dr Tolto Metha, Kevin Solo and Vica Rakhosili of NBDA Kohima, Aloka Hiremath
Curation: Aradhana Nagpal