Paan
A morsel of etiquette . The leaf that complements good taste . The leaf that is a symbol of Lakhnawi hospitality.
Pan kept on tradional Paandan (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
Paan , i.e. betel leaf lined with kaththa (catechu), choona (slaked lime) and finely chopped supari (areca nut), is widely advertised today as an after-meal mouth freshener and a digestive aid. More elaborate paans have fragrant and sweetened add-ons. The Lakhnawi paan tradition is both an art and a craft; the Lucknow paan story is all about the paraphernalia that goes into the making of the paan and the finesse that is required to serve it.
Ingredients that go into making a paan are kept in the paandaan which is a round, square, rectangular or an octagonal box, usually made of copper or brass that require regular qalai [tinning]. Silver paandaans are fancier, with fine naqqashi [engravings] and are used on special occasions. The typical Lakhnawi paandaan is round with a dome shaped lid, attached to the base with a pair of thick chains on one side and a latch on the other. The paandaan contains a single tray on the top for keeping the paan leaves. Below it is an array of small containers known as kuliyas. Two kuliyas are set aside for keeping the choona and kaththa, with tiny spatulas for applying them on the leaf.
Additional kuliyas may contain chopped betel nuts, tobacco leaves, cubes of dry roasted coconut, fine fennel seeds, crystals of peppermint, qimam (a glutenous mixture of fragrances), gulkand (sweet preserve made of rose petals), whole green cardamoms and cloves. A sharp cutter called sarota breaks down the hard supari nut into ‘chewable’ pieces, the size of a lentil, and actually provides the base for the long lasting, ‘chewing’ element of a paan.
A Chatapati Cover for Paandan (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
A bare paandaan is seldom seen in Lucknow; it always has a stitched cover which may be an elaborate one in tukdi [patchwork pattern], makhmal (velvet) embellished with lachka, gota and kinari [silver or golden ribbon-like trimmings] or simply in plain or printed cotton. Washed and cleaned paans kept for ready use on the tray are wrapped in a damp cloth so they remain fresh.
A cloth for keeping Paan. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
This cloth is edged with fine silver gota [trimming] and is made of a dull red cotton fabric called thoole. A locked pandaan makes it out of reach for children or indicates that money or jewelry have been stored temporarily in it. A paandaan is also like a small medicine chest. A clove is an answer for a toothache , a piece of coconut may ease blisters in the mouth, choona is an antidote for a bee sting and paan eaten with a hint of saffron combats the adverse effects of the biting cold in winter.
For making a paan, a betel leaf is snipped at both ends and the hard veins are broken off. Choona is always applied first, on the right side of the leaf, kaththa on the left, the supari and other ingredients are placed in the centre and the paan is deftly folded into a triangle. The folded paan is secured with a clove or a piece of supari or it may be inserted in a small silver/gold paper gilori or cone and is ready to be served.
Khassdan (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
Serving a paan is a complete mehman nawaazi (hospitality) in itself; a paan is always accepted with a salaam and duas (blessings) are given if the recipient happens to be older. On more formal occasions a khaas daan is used to serve paans. This is usually made of silver, has a round tray or thali with a cover and a key ring-like bunch with thin silver spikes attached to it. Each spike pierces a couple of ready-to-eat paans.
Different types of accessories for Paan (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
Paans laced with tobacco require the juices to be spat out, for which an ugaldaan or spittoon is used. The ugaldaan , sometimes beautifully engraved, is required to be kept scrupulously clean and scrubbed daily. A small container, the dibiya made of silver or steel carries ready-to-eat paans, wrapped in moist thoole, when away from home. This is accompanied by a batua (cloth pouch) for carrying supari, cardamoms, cloves and tobacco or qimam in a tiny bottle.
Dibiya for Paan (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
A small container, the dibiya made of silver or steel carries ready-to-eat paans, wrapped in moist thoole, when away from home. This is accompanied by a batua (cloth pouch) for carrying supari, cardamoms, cloves and tobacco or qimam in a tiny bottle.
Paandaans are expensive and tedious to maintain, and paan chewing gives rise to local proverbs. A stingy or mean husband is metaphorically one who, biwi ke paandaan ka kharcha nahin deta or one who does not cover the expenses to maintain his wife’s paandaan .
A traditional Paandaan (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
When a daughter leaves her father’s house to go back to her husband’s home and is laden with unusually generous gifts, to avoid her in-laws’ any embarrassment, the father claims that he has given his daughter gifts only for her paandaan ka kharcha, to cover the expenses for her paandaan only! Paans also have ritual significance in Lucknow homes and are part of puja (worship) and wedding ceremonies.
Picture of Paan dariba (Charbagh) (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
An area called Paan-Dariba was the supply centre for betel leaves of different varieties (Banarasi, Maghai, Mahoba, Bangla and others), with the leaves being sold in dholis (200 leaves in a dholi). Fewer homes in Lucknow can be seen to maintain paandaans now.
Sometimes they are taken out at weddings and other family functions, but now their numbers are dwindling. Today, ready made paans, wrapped in mahoua [a deciduous tree] leaves can be bought at roadside stalls. A hostess may serve them after a party, sweet or plain, and proudly announce the name of the well-known stall from where they have been bought.
A Paan shop. (2024)Lucknow Bioscope
Paan stalls have mushroomed everywhere in the city. They function out of cramped, box- like, temporary stalls and the small size makes one wonder how the paanwaala ever gets in and out. There are brass containers for choona and kaththa and a row of bottles containing other ingredients which are to be added as per a customer’s choice. A block of ice keeps the betel leaves fresh; burning incense sticks are also a common feature at paan stalls.
Here is the link to our other stories on Google arts and culture:-
- Street Food from Lucknow
- Kulcha Nihari
- Khasta - Kachouri
- Chaat
- Kababs
- Biryani / Pulao
- Utensils: A Peep Into Street Food Kitchens
Curation: Noor Khan, Saman Habib
Graphic: Stuti Mishra
Photography: Anshubhi Singh, Ayan Bose
Text and Translation: Amit Misra, Divya Joshi, Wasim Ahmed
Contribution by: Shipra Misra
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