Georgian Attire - Reflection of Political Climate

Emphasizing national identity, details have always been important parts of every style and transitional epoch of the Georgians' garment

Georgian Nabadi (Burka) (1800/1890)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

Throughout centuries, dressing traditions in Georgia reflected political and cultural changes in this country. Expressing the political route and symbolizing the spirit of the times, Georgian costume was changing occasionally, nevertheless maintaining its national identity.

From ancient times, along with Georgian traditions, the Georgian attire represented synthesis of Byzantine and Oriental cultures; later Russian style is also observed...  such circumstances were related to the political situation and cultural ties. 

Khevsurian "Talaveri", 1900/1950, From the collection of: Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History
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Khevsurian "Talaveri", 1900/1950, From the collection of: Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History
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Demonstrating provenance, socio-economic and cultural peculiarities, clothing is one of the oldest cultural elements of the Georgian national heritage. 

Dress of Georgian Noblemen (1800/1890)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

The oldest reference regarding Georgian fabric

is dated from the Upper Palaeolithic era. Working in Dzudzuana Cave, scientists discovered 30,000-year-old flax thread fibers. The discovery of spindle whorls holds essential importance.

The first report about Georgian clothing

is evidenced in the 5th century hagiographical work "The Martyrdom of the Holy Queen Shushanik", where clothing is referred to as "ornament", sheepskin tunic, rug...

Eristavis' Akhalukhi (Tunic) (1800/1890)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

Georgian Nobles Dresses

The legacy of the Georgian writer lese Baratashvili gives us an idea how Georgian nobles used to dress. In his "adventure", written in 1774, he mentions diverse vestments and variety of textiles: 

"one used to have ten-twelve dresses in a wardrobe trunk, four and five akhalukhi, five or six shirts and 'mukasari', 'chakhchukhi' and paitchi', ten-twelve 'sachekhi', a Tushetian sewn hat and different coloured 'kajruli".

Dress of Georgian noblemen (copy) (1800/1890)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

Byzantine Influence

The study of secular portraits depicted on church reliefs dated by V-VIII cc. showed that at that time, because of political circumstances, Byzantium influenced not only on the course of the Georgian national clothing but the creation of textile as well. 

Notably, it was Byzantium, where the Georgian royal clothes of the X-XIII cc. originated from. Adorned with portrait of Justin Caesar and embroidered with golden thread - white surplice ‘paragaudi’ was a significant part of the royal garment in Georgia.

Dress of Georgian Noblemen (copy) (1700/1790)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

If the X-XIIIcc.Georgian royal attire was influenced by Byzantium, "in XVII-XVIIIcc. besides political influence Persian fashion became more and more popular and Georgian aristocracy began following the Iranian nobility". (Georgian historian Ivane Javakhishvili)

Dress of Georgian Noblemen (copy) (1800/1890)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

Clothing as a symbol of political obedience

Having appearance of a robe, garments in Georgia in XVII -XVIII cc. were pretty similar with that of Iranian robes. As Georgia was under the Iranian rule, primarily royal and then secular clothing was reflecting best the socio-political conditions of the country.

Georgian short skirt dress (1700/1790)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

Tradition of gifting of clothes

Harun Al-Rashid (786-809) gifted  Iranian public figure an honorable vestment. This is believed to have determined the tradition of gifting clothing in the eastern countries, which eventually set the custom among Iranian rulers to gift their favorite subordinates either  part, or the complete set of their own clothing . 

According to the Georgian historian Vaxhushti Batonishvili, George X (1600-1605) was the first to be granted  a robe from the Khan, who did not take off his own vestment but put the gifted robe over it. 

Georgian short skirt dress (copy) (1700/1790)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

Akhalukhi

Worn under the dress Akhalukhi was  made from "black drapery", wool and silk. Buttoned "from neck to waist with silver buttons”  It was put over the shirt not to cover the embroidered neck of the shirt. 

In the late Middle Ages, the buttoned cotton akhalukhi was very similar to the Iranian akhalukhi.   Akhalukhi was one of the main parts of the vestment of noble as well as peasant men in Georgia.

Chokha of David Javrishvili, 1800/1850, From the collection of: Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History
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Chokha of Prince Levan, Parna Lapiashvili, 1948, From the collection of: Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History
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Another main apparel for the Georgians was "Chokha". Prior to the 18th century Chokha was the name of monk’s clothing-cassock-and only peasants wore it as a common garment. It could not have been colorful because of the lifestyle and conditions at that time. An Italian missionary Arcangelo Lamberti's report clearly indicates that Georgians used to wear two kind of garments simultaneously. Both garments were designated for the nobility and worn according to circumstances.

Kvartua (short Chokha), 1800/1890, From the collection of: Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History
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Chokha is made of wool (black, gray, white, blue, red or brown fabric), it has long sleeves and laps, and it must have a belt with a stiletto on it. Also, chokha always has bandoliers on both sides of the chest, spaces filled with bullet-like decorations, they're called Masri. The color of chokha tells about the man's place in society.

Russian Uniform with Epaulettes, 1800/1890, From the collection of: Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History
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Russian Uniform with Epaulettes, 1800/1890, From the collection of: Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History
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   Under the rule of Russian Empire. Over the centuries the Muslim Ottoman and Persian empires had fought for various fragmented Georgian kingdoms and principalities; however, by the 18th century Russia emerged as a new imperial power in the region and in the 19c. Georgia eventually became part of the Russian Empire. This led the Russian influence to be obvious not only in Georgian political and economic but its socio-cultural lifestyle too. 

Nabadi of Chabua Amirejibi (1935/1995)Art Palace of Georgia - Museum of Cultural History

Throughout its history, Georgia has been influenced by various countries and cultures but national costume worn by the Georgians for over a thousand years, has never lost its importance and identity. 

The Georgian attire is an integral part of the Georgian National Ballet.
Georgian Chokha is sometimes worn for formal national meetings and often for wedding ceremonies. For many it symbolizes the country's proud past and resilience of its nation.

Credits: Story

George Kalandia 
Mariam Kikvadze
Mary Kharaishvili
Irakli Zambakhidze

The narrative was created based on George Kalandia’s book “Textile from Georgia" and Guliko Kvantidze's book "Georgian Clothing" (XVI-XVII cc.)

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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