The Life and Work of Weaver Shamji Vankar

Homesteads in Kutch were generally built of mud and wood. After the 2001 earthquake, most of the villagers rebuilt their homes in concrete, replacing the earlier mud and thatch construction.

It is only in the courtyards where the looms are kept, that the floors are still of pale brown mud, baked hard in the sun.

Small showrooms at the front end of village residences, open on to the small main street to display what they think will catch the tourist’s eye.

The textiles on display are often not highly aesthetic but tend to cater to popular tastes.

Shamji's shop is full of treasures for the discerning eye.

He proudly displays new developments, old sample pieces, commissioned works and a wide range of textiles in wool, silk, cotton and khadi, which is hand spun and hand woven.

No one goes away empty handed after engaging with this proud weaver and polished salesman.

A prosperous village community makes Bhujodi a living example of a still relevant, shared value system of a people who would otherwise have been isolated and out of tune with the changing world.

Shamji and his family have set up a work space in their village where sampling is done and production is organised.

At the far end of the courtyard is the work area for some of the dyeing and yarn preparation.

The pre-treatment of yarn with harda is also done in the courtyard.

Harda, also known as black myrobalan is prepared from fruit of Harda, and yields yellow and grey shades with aluminum and ferrous mordants respectively.

At one side are rooms with various kinds of raw material: balls of natural wool, hanks of coloured yarn, dyestuff.

As Shamji’s family’s business grew, he and his brothers were able to make a new workplace for themselves.

The looms at Shamji Vankar's family workshop is where much of the design development and sampling is done.

Most weavers have looms in their homes.

The workshop is equipped for all processes associated with weaving. It is here that they have organised the work in a more professional manner.

While continuing to work with their hands themselves, they have also employed others from the community, and have small units for different aspects of production.

Family ties are very important for rural artisans. The grandfather or father’s achievements are often remembered and recounted.

Photographs of political leaders who represent their world or values, images of saints and deities adorn the walls.

Along with photographs of political leaders, and deities along the walls, bags with personal belongings are also hung.

The wall is also used to hang their tools.

The Vankar family home has been embellished by a clay and mirror facade in relief work typical of old Rabari homes.

The Vankars are not Rabari, but belong to the Meghwal community. This was a way of showing appreciation and solidarity with others.

In the evenings, the cows come back from grazing and various members of the family gather in their home.

As the matriarch of the family, Shamji Vankar's mother presides over the family home.

Despite the long hours and the hard work, there is always time for community and family.

Read more about Dhabla Weaving here:

- Heritage Textiles
- Weaving Process