Wide view of Dawson from across river (2015) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Location, Location, Location
Dawson City is located in the Yukon territory - about 100 kilometers east of the Alaska border, on the shore of the Yukon River where it meets the Klondike River. Before roads, these rivers were transit routes for people and goods.
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Before the Gold Rush
The area now called Dawson City has been home to the ancestors of the Tr'ondëk Hwëch'in since long before the influx of settlers in the late 1800s. For millennia, they've relied on salmon and caribou, maintaining a reciprocal relationship with the land and its occupants.
Costumed interpreter-led walking tour of Dawson with Moosehide Slide in the distance (2015) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Moosehide Slide
At the north end of town, there’s a visible scar on the hill from an ancient landslide - known as Ëdhä dädhëchą or Moosehide Slide.
It’s a convenient landmark for river travelers and features in many Tr'ondëk Hwëch'in oral histories.
"Landahl's Emporium, Dawson Second Avenue from Queen Street, Midnight, Dawson Y.T." (1904) by Canadian Photo ArchiveOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
Welcome to Dawson
Dawson's false-front architecture, gravel streets, and raised wooden boardwalks reflect its history from the gold rush era. Tall false fronts on buildings gave a more impressive facade... and were cheaper and quicker than building the whole structure to a high standard.
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Dawson Today
Today, Parks Canada conserves over 20 buildings in Dawson City, including Ruby's Place. These buildings are a tangible reminder of past residents and their hard work, their joys, and their struggles. Many historic buildings continue to be used by Dawsonites today.
Route to the Klondike Gold, originally titled "Chilkoot Pass in '98" (1898) by Canadian Photo ArchiveOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
Gold!
After gold was discovered in 1896, one hundred thousand people, mostly single men, headed north. Their collective pursuit of fortune became known as the Klondike Gold Rush. Less than half actually made it all the way to Dawson.
Originally titled "Packing Up Chilkoot Pass" (1898) by Canadian Photo ArchiveOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
A Treacherous Journey
The first of many challenges on the busiest route to Dawson was the Chilkoot Trail, an important trade route for the Tlingit people that was soon overrun with stampeders, as the gold-seekers were called. Both men and women suffered the journey in search of prosperity.
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Today, the 53 km trail is a national historic site and backpacking destination.
A group of sex workers in front of their cribs, originally "A Group of Hard Workers, Dawson YT" (1899) by Larss & DuclosOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
Green Light for the Red Lights
In Dawson's early days, sex workers who braved the journey were free to ply their trade, and mostly operated in the unofficial red light district on Second Avenue, shown here. Many worked out of saloons, small private cabins (called cribs), or on the streets.
A street of cribs in Lousetown, originally "Midnight Hour Oshiwara, or 'White Chapel' of Dawson" " (1898) by Canadian Photo ArchiveOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
After the Gold Rush
As the gold rush came to an end around 1899, Dawson's population declined and shifted to salaried employees of corporate industrial mining. With this changing demographic came more conservative views and a crackdown on gambling, dance halls, liquor and sex work.
In 1899, a fire in downtown Dawson gave town officials an excuse to push sex work away from the town centre. Many sex workers moved their operations outside city limits to an area across the Klondike River called Klondike City, or Lousetown.
Neither of these names were the original. The Tr'ondëk Hwëch’in called it Tr’ochëk and used the area as a seasonal fishing camp for generations. Today, the cultural landscape of Tr’ochëk is a National Historic Site.
Four sex workers posing in front of a crib, originally "Goddesses of Liberty Enlightening Dawson YT" (1899) by Larss & DuclosOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
Changing Times
As Dawson became a more settled, family-oriented community, sex work changed as well. The model of individuals offering their services declined, and by the 1930s, brothels -- businesses headed by a madam -- were the most common form of sex work.
Most sex workers came up to Dawson in the spring and left before winter. We don't know where they came from, but some stayed and put down roots in Dawson. For women pushed to the margins, the shift to organized brothels may have been a welcomed, safer change.
Mathilde 'Ruby' Scott outside Ruby's Place (1935) by Parks Canada Bobillier CollectionParks Canada
Meet Madam Ruby
Mathilde "Ruby" Scott had a lasting impact in Dawson. As the madam of Ruby's Place, she was responsible for the business and for the women who worked for her. Ruby was also an influential and respected member of the community.
Ruby purchased the building on Second Avenue in 1935 and ran it as a brothel for over two decades. In 1961, she closed the brothel and ran it as a boarding house until her retirement in 1969.
Ruby is remembered fondly by many Dawson residents of all ages. Her generosity was legendary, as was her reputation as a cook, hostess, and, according to one resident, “a good old soul.”
Men panning for gold under buildings in front of Ruby's Place (1936) by Gordon ScholefieldOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
Ruby's Place
Ruby's Place was one of Dawson's premier brothels from 1935 to 1961 and is now owned and maintained by Parks Canada as part of Dawson Historical Complex National Historic Site.
But, Ruby's Place was much more than a brothel. It served as a lounge where locals could get a drink and socialize. As Professor LK Bertram from the University of Toronto explains, like most brothels or bawdy houses, Ruby's would also have been a place of learning.
Many sex workers saw their role as a vital part of the community that protected other women through education at the brothels.
Sex workers (not from Ruby's) in Lousetown, originally "A Drinking Bee at White Chapel Dawson" (1900) by Larss & DuclosOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
A 'Bad' Influence
While many people believed brothels played a necessary role (as long as the rooming house license fees were paid), others saw sex work and alcohol as damaging influences.
When a new church leader arrived in town and complained to Prime Minister Louis St. Laurent, the RCMP were forced to act. The resulting crackdown led to fines and charges, cutting into Ruby's bottom line. Exhausted by these challenges, she closed her business in 1961.
Ruby's Place upper bedroom, west facing (1971) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Welcome to Ruby's Place
These interior photographs were taken when Parks Canada acquired Ruby's Place and show the furnishings as she left them.
Ruby`s Place Front Sitting Room, Facing East Ruby`s Place Front Sitting Room, Facing East (1971) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
We only know a little about Ruby’s life before Dawson. She was born Mathilde de Ligneres in northern France in the 1880s. She lived in Paris, Strasbourg, San Francisco, Honolulu, and Keno City (another Yukon mining community), and ran brothels in at least some of these places.
Floor plan of Ruby's Place (2022) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
An Intimate Look Inside
Ruby's Place had a living room, dining room, kitchen and four bedrooms upstairs.
Ruby's Place upper bedroom, east facing (1971) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Upstairs Bedrooms
The details about Ruby's past are a bit blurry, but we know even less about the women who worked for her because they were rarely mentioned in historical records. We do know that they worked in these rooms.
Dressing Up
We have one clue to how some of their earnings may have been spent: a dress from the 1930s, discovered in the walls during restoration work. It would have been in fashion during Ruby's time. We don’t know who wore it, but it tells an interesting story about fashion in the North.
Short sleeve summer dress found in the walls at Ruby's Place (2018) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
The garment is a woman's full-length light summer dress with a tie around the waist. It's stained and crumpled after decades stuffed in a wall, but it was originally purple with a white checked pattern.
Billie Burke dress tag- close up of summer dress (2018) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Fashion in the North
The dress tag reads "Billie Burke Registered." Actress Billie Burke is best remembered for her role as Glinda, the Good Witch of the North, in the film The Wizard of Oz - and like many celebrities today, she had her own fashion line.
Discovery Day parade announcing the re-opening of Ruby's Place (1970) by Jones, Ed and StarOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
Ruby's Re-opening!
In the early 1960s, as Ruby was winding down her business, and mining activity dwindled in the region, Parks Canada decided to take an active role in preserving that history - and a number of buildings around Dawson.
Nature walk guided tour led by a Parks Canada costumed interpreter (2015) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Visiting Dawson City
Dawson Historical Complex and the other Klondike National Historic Sites are open to visitors year-round. Events and tours, some guided by costumed interpreters (pictured), run from May through September.
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Many Sights To See
Visit the goldfields, a barren landscape of dreams. Explore famed poet Robert Service’s historic log cabin or the elegant Palace Grand theatre and experience a magical northern outpost under the midnight sun.
Highway sign leaving Dawson (1975) by Harold DinesOriginal Source: Dawson City Museum
Getting There
Dawson City, Yukon is located 525 kilometers northwest of Whitehorse. There are flights to Dawson airport year-round, or you can visit by car if you fancy a long road trip - it's about 27 hours from Edmonton, Alberta.
Ruby's Place Exterior Ruby's Place Exterior (2022-07-05/2022-07-05) by Dylan MeyerhofferParks Canada
ReCollections: A Ruby in the Rough
To learn more about Ruby Scott and the history of Dawson City, please listen to the full podcast episode of ReCollections: A Ruby in the Rough.
A big thank you to Nancy McCarthy, Karen Routledge, Shelley Bruce, Marvin Dubois, Lenore Calnan, Jeff Thorsteinson, and Dr. LK Bertram. For a deeper dive, Dr. Bertram has an article about sex work in Canadian boomtowns in the Journal of Social History called “The Other Little House."