Men's fashion of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries gave pride of place to embroidery, with silk, gold or silver threads. In Nîmes, many embroiderers worked on their production.
From the end of the eighteenth century to the First French Empire, men's fashion worn at court changed little. The men's coat consisted of several pieces: knickerbockers, a waistcoat and a frock coat.
The knickerbockers went down to below the knees, where they were adjusted by a garter. Previously, the stockings were rolled with the knickerbockers at the knee.
The jacket was an undergarment, the back of which was made of ordinary fabric, unlike the front, which could be silk, and was richly decorated with embroidery.
Gilet masculin by AnonymeMusée du Vieux Nîmes
In the eighteenth century, this embroidery fashion allowed Nîmes to establish a network of embroiderers, who applied sequins and threads of gold, silver or dye to Nîmes silks.
Under the reign of Louis XV, the sleeves were removed and the jacket was given the name of waistcoat. This term appeared in 1769 in the book "L'Art du tailleur" by François-Alexandre Pierre de Garsault (1693–1778).
The Nîmes textile industry was structured as a set of small workshops. Embroiderers worked from home and were paid by the piece. Only the front of the waistcoat was embroidered before it was assembled.
The fashion for embroidered waistcoats with floral motifs began in 1774 when Louis XVI rose to the throne of France.
The pattern of a waistcoat was first drawn on cardboard by a designer. The latter mastered the technique of weaving and embroidery, and followed the rapid evolution of the patterns.
Habit à la française (18ème siècle) by AnonymeMusée du Vieux Nîmes
As "à la française" clothing changed little for a century, fashion focused on accessories instead. The decorations were concentrated on the front panels, the tabs of the pockets, the pleats of the peplums and the facings of the sleeves.
The ornaments were coordinated between the knickerbockers, the waistcoat and the frock coat.
This men's garment was made around 1775 in a brown and purple silk brocade and embroidered with feather, flower and foliage patterns, predominantly in yellow and white, on the borders, garland pockets and buttons.
Veste et gilet d'enfant (18ème siècle) by AnonymeMusée du Vieux Nîmes
Dating from the second part of the eighteenth century, this children's coat and waistcoat is another example of the fashion focusing on the details of accessories.
Made from purple velvet, they are both embroidered with gold metallic threads and sequins. The sleeves on the lapel of the coat, which have a silk lining, are embellished with rhinestone buttons.
The museum has a very rich collection of embroidery samples made for waistcoat fronts or for dresses. Notable pieces include the collection of samples that entered the collections in 1950.
These samples were presented to customers before the tailor-made garment was made.
The redingote appeared at the end of the reign of Louis XIV in England. It completed the men's outfit with a more serious look. Starting in 1780, the fashion for embroidery ran out of steam.
Redingote (18ème siècle) by AnonymeMusée du Vieux Nîmes
A "riding coat" is a comfortable garment suitable for fox hunting. It was first invented for the French nobility, most of whom lived in the countryside. It first won over the circles of the English court before being adopted in France.
Creation: City of Nîmes - Musée du Vieux Nîmes
Images: © City of Nîmes - Musée du Vieux Nîmes: © Gilles Lefrancq
