Balenciaga: Master Craftsman

Known as ‘The Master’ of haute couture, Cristóbal Balenciaga (1895–1972) was one of the most revered and influential fashion designers of the 20th century. His clothes were characterised by their sculptural quality, deft manipulation of textiles and dramatic use of colour and texture.

Balenciaga was a Spaniard. Many of his most iconic designs show an affinity for Spanish heritage and costume – from the 'chaquetillas' worn by bullfighters to the traditional flamenco dress. A writer from Woman's Journal stated, "Inspirations from Spain! Balenciaga is young, Spanish and new to Paris. His beautiful clothes have the warm, colourful drama of his country."

Starting as a tailor's apprentice aged just 12, Balenciaga's early training set him apart from other couturiers. He was skilled in every stage of the making process: designing, cutting, tailoring and dressmaking. Sleeves were his obsession – he believed they were fundamental to the perfect fit. 

In the 1950s and 60s, Balenciaga changed the shape of women’s fashion, creating sculptural forms that stood away from the body, framing the figure rather than restricting it. Designs such as the 'sack', the 'balloon hem' and the 'baby doll' revolutionised the female silhouette, and continue to resonate today. 

 "Almost air-borne" was how Vogue described this historically inspired evening dress. “Taffeta as thin as burned paper, shaped into harem skirts. Balenciaga’s source: the balloon skirts of the women of Ibiza, who look like clouds walking”. 

This dress was dubbed the ‘tulip’ by the press. A signature for Balenciaga – the plain front reserves interest for the back of the dress, with its large bow reminiscent of Japanese kimono.

This woman’s evening cape and dress ensemble typifies the increasing simplicity and abstraction of Balenciaga’s later work. It relies on a deep knowledge of the fabric – which determines the sculptural shape. Although strikingly modern, the design echoes the mantles and cassocks worn by Catholic clergy in Balenciaga’s Spanish homeland. 

Ensembles were often paired with a striking hat which lifted the whole look and made it appear more avant-garde. “Balenciaga’s hats are an integral part of his fashion” reported the French fashion review 'Jardin des modes' in 1961. They ensure “that volumes are balanced and the silhouette is perfectly finished off”.