Kanga: A Cloth That Unites

The talking cloth that unites cultures and communities

The Kanga (Leso) has deep cultural, historical and economic significance throughout the Indian Ocean region, and for more than 100 years it has remained one of the most popular of all cultural items across East Africa. Within Kenya, the Kanga is a common thread that links and unites cultures, the young and older people, men and women, rich and poor, and locals and foreigners in the colourful, dynamic world of its design.

What does 'Kanga' mean?

The name is said to have originated from the Swahili word for the guinea fowl, which is black with white spots. Kanga za Mera followed soon after that and included block printing of more intricate designs in red and black on Merikani fabric. There are various theories surrounding the origin of the Kanga cloth, and not all have been highlighted in this exhibit.

Origin and history

In the 19th century, in East Africa, certain varieties of cloth were popular. Among them was a cheap, white, unbleached cotton fabric imported from the United States called Merikani, which was worn by women. The other was Kaniki, a name given to cotton cloth from India. The colorful material was quite popular around the middle of the 1800s and, as demand grew, local merchants began to dye Merikani cloth a deep blue or black. The earliest designs were block printed and had repeating black and white spotted motifs, which inspired the name Kanga.

Production and distribution

From the early days, Kangas were largely produced in Europe and India. Throughout the 20th century, British, American, Dutch, and Japanese imported cloth continued to dominate the market. But, in the 1970s, textile mills were set up in Kenya and, in 1985, Tanzania became one of the largest producers of the Kanga. Today, Kangas are produced in Kenya, Tanzania, Oman, India and Pakistan. China has recently become the largest producer.

The Kanga is today highly fashionable and can be purchased in many markets in Africa, as well as large cities and small villages in Europe and Asia, and in the US. It has retained its ability to survive and is now being printed on cloth other than cotton because of the high prices of cotton in Africa. The most sought after Kangas remain the traditional soft cotton cloths in varieties of colors, patterns and styles.

The design

The Kanga is distinctly recognizable from other African textiles because of its design. Its basic design structure consists of a patterned border (pindo) surrounding a central motif (mji) and Swahili proverb or phrase (jina). The rectangular-shaped printed cloth measures about 150 centimeters in length and 110 centimeters in width. The print patterns of the Kanga are categorized into floral, fauna, and other patterns. Two or more usually vibrant, highly-saturated colors and bold patterns are used.

When buying a Kanga, an individual's choice is influenced by the design, color and text. The Kanga is a beautiful, affordable and accessible cloth, worn and sold uncut and in pairs.

The importance of the Kanga in Kenya and the world

Originally a product of the Swahili coastal communities, the Kanga spread across Kenya and today is known and used by nearly every woman, child and man in Kenya, and within Kenyan communities around the world. It has become more prevalent now more than ever before in fashion, tourism, and everyday use.

There are several ways in which people make use of the Kanga. Women wrap them around their bodies in diverse ways, covering and carrying babies, supporting loads carried on the head or back, and as wall hangings. They are also used to make outfits, head pieces, bags, curtains, table cloths, curtains, seat covers, pillows cases, duvet covers, and many more everyday items.

The talking cloth loved by all

The Kanga has become a medium of communication, aimed at integration and individualisation. The images and Swahili texts inscribed on the Kanga are used to pass on various messages, including those which are social, political, religious, or health or development related. The first sayings were inscribed in Arabic script, and with time the writing changed to Swahili. Swahili women in particular use them to convey personal messages to their friends, husbands, and families.

There are Kangas that are printed and used as campaign tools, for passing religious messages such as Idd (Eid al-Fitr) and Christmas wishes, for raising awareness on various issues such as HIV/AIDS, or simply for portraying images of influential figures such as politicians and celebrities.

The roles the Kanga plays in communities

The Kanga plays a meaningful role for the cultural identity of women in Kenya, especially on the coast and the hinterland of the Indian ocean, where they have been part of the traditional dress of the Swahili for more than a century.

The Kanga plays various roles in the different lifestages of Kenya's communities, including, in chronological order: birth, initiation, weddings, elderhood and funerals.

Among the Kikuyu, for example, a Kanga is given to the mother and grandmother of a newborn. The baby may also be wrapped in an uncut and stitched pair of Kangas to confer prosperity, strength and beauty as a symbol of the parents' love. The mother of a newborn may tie a Kanga around her waist to reduce her stomach. When a girl reaches puberty, red and black Kangas are given to her whereas, during this stage, the girl presents her ritual mother a Kanga in gratitude for imparting knowledge.

During weddings, several Kangas are placed on the ground so that the bride may walk on them as she leaves the house. This is so she does not get dirty.

Among Muslims, the Kanga is used for washing the deceased. Kangas are also given to individuals who have lost loved ones, by those who come to console them.

In cosmopolitan communities, the uses of the Kanga include as costumes during school music and drama festivals, and church functions.

Amani, Upendo, Umoja - Peace, Love, Unity

The message on this Kanga is promoting peace. The fabric has a thin black outer border, the inner border is striped red, green, white and black. Each of the four edges has the map of Kenya, highlighted green, with the words '10 years of nyayo' inscribed. There is also the club across each of the four maps, and a white dove flying with a plant in its beak. The club has the words 'stability and progress'. The center has a white map of Africa encircled on a red background, and the map of Kenya is highlighted. Below the circle is another club. The other part is black with white circles.

Swahili text: 'Amani, Upendo, Umoja.'
Meaning: Peace, Love, Unity.

Siri haidumu milele - a secret does not last forever

This Kanga has a thin black outer border. The inner border is white and has orange zigzag patterns and circles. The centre is blue and has big orange pawpaw leaves and other tinier black leaves on a blue background.

Swahili text: 'Siri haidumu milele.'
Meaning: 'A secret does not last forever.'

Mahaba ni seraha nibebe nione raha - love is an injury, love me so that I feel happy

This Kanga has a thin dark purple outer border, and the inner border is dark-purple with maroon and white paisley designs, and white flowers. The center is maroon with circular patterns which are maroon, purple and white.

Swahili text: 'Mahaba ni seraha nibebe nione raha.'
Meaning: 'Love is an injury, love me so that I feel happy.'

Top and skirt made of Kanga

This top, skirt and matching bag are made of a cotton Kanga. It would be worn by girls, especially in the coastal region of Kenya.

Nguo / Rindadress

This girl's dress is made from Kanga cotton cloth. It has the designs of the stars and moon, with a belt fixed on the left and right side.The belt is to be tied at the back to give the dress shape.

This is a basket woven by women using papyrus plant. The outer part is painted with skinny paint, then covered with a Kanga material with zebra patterns. It is decorated with sea shells. It would be made and used by women for carrying personal things and shopping.

Kanga curtain

This is a curtain made from kanga cloth and a piece of plain pink material. It would be made and used by everybody.

Kanga duvet quilt

A duvet made from pieces of Kanga, similar to a quilt. It has a red border and would be used to keep warm.