Victoria Falls

The Zambezi River meanders gently across a flat plateau. The slow-moving water supports green forests amid the scrubland and attracts Africa’s legendary wildlife. But up ahead rises a column of steam, looking like the thin smoke from a campfire.

This story was created for the Google Expeditions project by ePublishing Partners and AirPano, now available on Google Arts & Culture

Victoria Falls (1947-04) by Eliot ElisofonLIFE Photo Collection

As the river drifts closer, the thread grows into a sheet, and a pounding roar rises from the earth. Out of nowhere, the river plunges over 100 meters (300 feet), disappearing into a narrow gorge like a knife slash in the earth. 

Top Afri Rhodesia Victoria FallsLIFE Photo Collection

This is Victoria Falls, considered the largest waterfall in the world.

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The Falls in Flood

You are looking at Victoria Falls after southern Africa’s wet season. From November to April, rains turn the countryside green and fill the rivers. Victoria Falls becomes the largest waterfall in the world, in terms of height times width. 

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Its impressive size is the result of its unique geography where the river flows into a gorge that cuts directly across it. 

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The World’s Largest Waterfall

Victoria Falls is not the tallest or the widest waterfall. But it is the world’s largest sheet of falling water, as calculated by height times width. It plunges over 100 meters across a 1,700-meter (5,604-foot, or over 1-mile) face.

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Waterfall Features

The waterfall contains several features. The farthest left (east) fall is Devil’s Cataract, next to Cataract Island. The Main Falls and Devil's Pool sit by Livingstone Island (behind the rainbow). Horseshoe Falls, Rainbow Falls, and Eastern Cataract complete the face.

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Two Nations

The middle of the Zambezi River is the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The two nations divide the falls just east of Livingston Island. Each nation has places to view the falls.

The Zambezi’s Dry Season

April through November is southern Africa’s dry season. Though the Zambezi River still flows, it does so at a much smaller volume, revealing the geologic structure of Victoria Falls. Often, when the falls are at their fullest, a wall of mist conceals them from viewers. 

Remember, though, that the gorge is almost 2 kilometers wide, so the falls are still quite powerful even at this time of year.

A History of Gorges

Dramatic zig-zag gorges show the falls’ history. The gorges were carved by the river itself cutting away at fractures in the bedrock. Like many waterfalls, Victoria Falls has “eaten” its way upstream as the crashing water chews away the riverbed.

The Zambezi River

The Zambezi River is the fourth longest in Africa, and the largest flowing into the Indian Ocean. However, like many of Africa’s major rivers, rapids and falls like Victoria make navigation nearly impossible for much of its length.

Water Power

Though navigation is tough, falling rivers do provide hydroelectric power. A small canal channels some water to a power station in the gorge. Further downstream, the Zambezi is dammed, creating a huge hydropower station.

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A Complex African History

The history of Victoria Falls reflects the history of European colonialism in Africa. Even its name, honoring Queen Victoria of England, signals a shift in control from Africans, who called it Mosi-oa-Tunya, or “The Smoke that Thunders.” 

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The Falls’ “discovery” and popularization as a tourist attraction reflects European attitudes about Africa from the industrial age to today.

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David Livingstone

Victoria Falls were named by legendary Scottish explorer David Livingstone (of, “Dr. Livingstone, I presume?” fame). African guides brought Livingstone to Mosi-oa-Tunya, where he named it for his queen and declared it a treasure of the colony.

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Victoria Falls Bridge

Cecil Rhodes, mine-owner and imperialist ruler of southern Africa, promoted Victoria Falls as a tourist attraction and transportation line for colonists. He planned the Victoria Falls Bridge, completed in 1905. It served mostly European visitors.

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Colonial Tourism

In the Victorian era, visitors flocked to Victoria Falls as a natural wonder. The town of Victoria Falls in what is now Zimbabwe sprang up with hotels, spas, and resorts. Advertisements boasted that train passengers would get splashed by spray.

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A Conflicted Border

In the 1960s, Zambia declared independence. The next year, Rhodesia to the south followed, but less successfully. Conflicts led Zambia to close the border at the bridge crossing. Warfare plagued the southern shore until Zimbabwe’s independence in 1980.

A Unique Geology

The falls and the dramatic downstream gorges are a result of the unique geology of the area. Above the falls, the Zambezi River flows over a relatively flat plateau formed by volcanic activity that spreads a heavy sheet of lava across the land. 

When water flowed across the rock, it does what water does best; it found weak points in the stone and wore them away.

Basalt

The gorge is basalt, an igneous (volcanic) rock. Basalt usually forms from lava flows that spread out over the land. The edges of basalt flows are often home to dramatic waterfalls, including famous falls in Oregon, the U.S., and Iceland.

Faults and Gorges

The basalt contained natural cracks filled with weaker sandstone. The river eroded the sandstone, leaving steep gorges. The falls make a feedback loop: faster-flowing water wears away more rock, which makes the falls higher, which makes the water flow faster.

Ongoing Erosion

Rocky debris in the gorge signals that the falls are not done eroding. Dramatic erosion often takes place during flash floods, which gouge and carry away huge slabs. A major flood occurred in 1958, changing the shape of the riverbed.

A Dynamic Falls

Crashing water wears away the lip and the foot of the falls. Over time, the cliff face wears away, and the falls gradually move upstream. The falls used to crash into gorges downstream.

Parks and Preservation

The Upper Zambezi River flows mostly through unpopulated grasslands and scrublands, which happen to be ideal habitats for Africa’s famous wildlife. The river itself serves as a rare permanent water source, essential when temporary pools evaporate during the dry season. 

Birds, reptiles, amphibians, and Africa’s large mammals all flock to the river, and both Zimbabwe and Zambia have set aside national parks near the falls to protect them.

Mist Forest

The land around Victoria Falls is generally dry-grass savannah. But the persistent mist rising from the falls acts like a permanent rain cloud, supporting extremely small rain forests on each bank.

Victoria Falls National Park, Zambia

This park extends from the southeastern side of the falls for about 10 kilometers. Crocodiles, elephants, buffalo, and rare white rhinos can be seen along the riverbank protected by the park.

Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park, Zimbabwe

On the Zimbabwean side, the falls and its surroundings are also a national park. Wildlife is a major attraction, including giraffe, zebra, and many types of African antelope. Visitors to both parks are advised to keep guard against thieving monkeys.

Extreme Tourism

Today’s tourists don’t just want to look at Victoria Falls. They want to participate in it and experience all parts of its power. 

In the last 20 years or so, extreme sports and attractions have sprung up in and around the falls for visitors who want to experience a sense of danger.

Devil’s Pool

When the water level is just right, daring tourists can take a dip near the cliff’s edge. Devil’s Pool contains an eddy with a light current. But misjudging the water flow can be deadly.

Whitewater Rafting

The Zambezi is one of the world’s premier destinations for whitewater rafting. The rapids in the gorge are some of the toughest that allow commercial ventures.

Bungee Jumping

Victoria Falls Bridge now allows bungee jumpers, who dive from its 128-meter-high span. One of the gorge cliffs even has a rope swing! Folks who prefer safer adventures can take a helicopter tour or stay at a nearby resort.

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