The Vibrant Lambani Embroidery Art

A detail of Lambani embroidery showing a variety of stitches used for creating straight lines for broad borders or edgings.

A detail of another piece that serves as a sampler for young Lambani girls who are learning to embroider from their mothers or choosing layout patterns for their work.

Interestingly, Lambani embroidery also uses smocking stitch styles, usually used in Europe on children’s dresses.

Here is a detail of a strip of textile that would be used to make a bag or skirt.

Additionally, beads, small cowrie shells and even low denomination coins are held together in a garland of stitches that embellish the edges of a piece.

Detail of a Lambani embroidery piece in thread and mirror work that has a border made of white metal beads and 25p coins (quarter of a rupee or approximately 1/65th of a dollar).

The coins cost them almost 300% more to buy in the market as they are almost out of use.

Detail of a Lambani embroidery piece which shows the closeness of the stitches, the variety of coloured threads used, and the style of allowing the stitches and lines to waver rather than maintain regimented straight lines.

Lines and patterns on any large Lambani embroidery piece can change at whim according to the imagination, skill and fancy of the woman embroidering it.

Some portions of embroidered Lambani textiles are so encrusted with embroidery that the underling textile cannot be seen.

Mirror work is a decoration shared by many communities in India, that are now settled but at one time were itinerant.

This small square textile piece serves as a sampler of motifs, showing ways of embedding mirrors into Lambani embroidery.

These are used by a group when deciding the patterning for a larger piece of work or for young girls as a design sample.

A typical traditional artifact made by Lambani women is this elaborate headdress with a thick circular piece embedded in it.

The circular piece serves as a pot rest when they carry vessels of water on their heads.

The head cover that is also a pot rest shows the care taken in embroidering a simple item of utility.

Mirrors, a variety of coloured threads and stitches bordered with cowrie shells, all make the task of carrying a heavy water pot on a Lambani woman’s head an act of pride.

While the grandmother shows off an old collection of cowrie tassles that are embellishments for skirt strings, her young granddaughter settles down nearby to finish her lunch.

The elongated tassles made of cowrie shells made by Lambani women for personal use, are tied to show them off well below the waist band of a skirt.

A Lambani wall hanging which is sold as a gift item showing their great quality of work. A judicious juxtaposition of stitches and mirrors make the entire piece stand out.

Detail of the wall hanging shows the intricacy, fineness and an attractive randomness in how the designs have been placed.

The base cloth dyed in madder red is the most preferred colour for their work.

A table top mat in Lambani embroidery follows a simple geometric pattern with bold rather than fine stitches, large mirrors and a border of cowrie shells, a favourite embellishment of the Lambani community.

Fringed with woollen tassles, a small round piece of Lambani embroidery can be used as a coaster or a simple piece of décor.

These are made by younger girls when they are first initiated into the traditional skill.

A closer detail of the little squares that make up the patchwork of the award-winning Lambani embroidery.

Each piece of Lambani embroidery is unique to itself and is never replicated unless it is for a multiple order of small commercial pieces rather than show pieces as in this detail.

A detail of one of the corners of the award-winning Lambani piece showing the patterns within wavy lines changing after short distances, mirrors of different sizes being used, and a bold dramatic edging in contrast to the central squares which are in lighter, gentler colours.

Another unique piece of Lambani embroidery in a more subtle, contemporary colour combination.

Design interventions to suit the production of a larger number of commercially viable products have helped Lambani women simplify their designs and make everyday articles as fashion accessories.

They ensure the presence of some part of their signature styles such as cowrie shells, tassles and mirrors.

The Lambani identity is firmly stamped on this contemporary sling purse sold at craft bazars and at the Lambani store in Sandur.

Motley Lambani stitches and layouts seem pieced together in this contemporary bag that is designed to serve as an exotic fashion accessory.

Small sling purses are also made in the Lambani work place to suit contemporary colour preferences, which often means toning down reds and blues and working out colour ways in softer shades. However, Lamabani embroidery still retains its identity by using tassles and
cowrie shells for clasps.

Pouch bags are popular in the Indian market, especially for evening wear. Lambani embroidery in the traditional deep red or indigo blues with mirrors or cowries make them dressier and more attractive.

A heritage hotel in Hampi shows off the local skills of its local Lambani women by using their embroideries in its interior décor.

An embroidered Lambani piece displayed in the heritage hotel in Hampi as wall art.

Read more about the Lambanis and their colourful embroidery traditions here:

- Nomad embroideries flourish amidst stone
- Lambani’s coloured homes and embroideries