Kanjivaram Weaving: The Infrastructure and Technology Used

Kanjivaram weaving is a highly skilled craft, its products valued as one of the finest examples of hand-crafted textiles the world over.

The technology and process behind making this precious textile has remained almost unchanged over the centuries.

The vibrant colours of the Kanjivaram saris are dyed by hand in simple work sheds.

The dye lots are small and enable customisation of colours, one sari at a time.

In some cases, modern technology is used for measuring weight.

But in most dyeing units, the old fashioned weighing system is still in use.

The process of winding the warp yarn is now mechanised.

A hand-operated charkha, or spinning wheel, is used to fill the weft yarn into bobbins for the shuttles.

Silk and zari yarns in bobbins are ready for use in the weft.

Typically, the weaver’s home is where the weaving actually takes place. Most of the ancillary processes of the weaving is done around the courtyard of the house.

The loom itself occupies a central place, taking up a large part of the dwelling.

The painstaking process of drawing out the warp ends and attaching them to the previous warp on the loom is done manually.

The tension of the warp is maintained using a system of basic weights.

The jacquard loom has had a great impact on the weaving of designs. Highly complicated patterns can now be woven easily with the mechanised translation of designs into lifting order of threads from the warp.

On the right is an example of an original hand-drawn graph, on the eft is a computerised version.

The traditional jala or adai technique is still widely prevalent. Designs are first painstakingly drawn by hand on a graph paper.

These designs are then transferred onto cards that have holes punched out according to the lifting order of warp threads, with the help of a computer.

These punched cards are used in the jacquard.

The embossed effect of extra warp and weft designs, achieved by hand or jala process, is considered superior to the effect created by the use of jacquard by weavers and buyers alike.

Read more about the weaving of Kanjivaram saris here:

- Kanjivaram Saris
- Kanchipuram, the City of Temples and Silk