By Condé Nast Archive
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Vogue. The title evokes glamour and excellence in visual storytelling. It also brings to mind the magazine’s famous covers—from Beyoncé in a glorious flower crown (September 2018) to Rihanna in a red wig (April 2011) and the “supers” stacked on a ladder for the 100th anniversary issue (April 1992).
Prior to this, Richard Avedon famously shot a series of close-up covers in the 1970s and ’80s, and Irving Penn presented openers of supreme elegance, such as Jean Patchett in a veiled hat (April 1, 1950).
Great photographers producing stop-in-your-tracks covers is part of the publication’s legacy; by hiring and developing great talents, Vogue and its publisher, Condé Nast, can be credited with helping fashion photography emerge as a genre.
The magazine’s first cover to use a color photograph, for the July 1, 1932, issue, was created by Edward Steichen. It marked the beginning of a sea change away from drawing and toward this advancing technological art. Illustrated covers still appeared throughout the 1950s, but with less frequency.
The magazine’s first art director also created cover art, but the heyday of the illustrated covers was the 1910s and 1920s. The Art Deco sensibility seemed to lend itself particularly well to the medium. Among the magazine’s Jazz Age contributors was a group of Frenchmen Nast discovered in Paris—Vogue dubbed them “the Beau Brummels of the Brush.”
Foremost among them was Georges Lepape, whose impressive résumé included collaborations with couturier Paul Poiret, the “King of Fashion,” and the Ballets Russes. There is a great dynamism to Lepape’s work: Lovelies might float on clouds or practice calligraphy.
Lepape was continuing in a tradition that had been established by American artists like Helen Dryden, known for creating covers of elegance (she also designed costumes and cars), and George Wolfe Plank, whose work inhabits a more fantastical realm.
Spaniard Eduardo García Benito was one of Nast’s right-hand men and a cover artist. His work represents the Deco style at its most pure and reduced. There’s a distinctive Cubist aspect to his art as well.
Romantic to the extreme are the drawings of Christian “Bébé” Bérard, a darling of the fashion and theater set in Paris. He sketched for Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, and worked on sets for Jean Cocteau’s surrealist film La belle et la bête (1946). Though expressionistic, his fluid lines capture the essence of a style.
Carl Erickson, known as Eric, is among the last of the magazine’s great illustrators. A Midwesterner based in Paris, he had a quick line that produced informative, elegant drawings. A dapper fellow who had access to the hot spots of Paris and to designers’ ateliers, Erickson gives the viewer a glimpse behind closed doors and a peek at fashion in the making.
Cover: Spring Fashions and Original Vogue Designs, Vogue (1921-02-01)Condé Nast Archive
Helen Dryden
Cover: Special Features for the Hostess, Vogue (1914-07-15)Condé Nast Archive
George Wolfe Plank
Vogue Cover: Autumn Fashion Forecast and Millinery (1920-09-15)Condé Nast Archive
George Lepape
Vogue Cover: Paris Fashions (1928-10-13) by Eduardo Garcia BenitoCondé Nast Archive
Benito
Vogue Cover: Beauty Number; Midseason Collections (1935-06-01) by Christian BerardCondé Nast Archive
Christian “Bébé” Bérard
Sketch of Man and Woman in Eveningwear, Vogue (1931-11-01) by Carl Oscar August EricksonCondé Nast Archive
Eric