Catherine the Great's Ice Cream Coolers

Uncover the extravagant history of Catherine the Great's porcelain dessert service, from Sevres to the Winter Palace.

Ice Cream Coolers (1778/1779) by Sèvres Manufactory, Charles-Nicolas Dodin (1734 - 1803), Painter, (flowers), Raux (1753 - 1779), Painter, (bas-reliefs and trophy), Etienne-Henry Le Guay, The Elder (1719 - 1799), Gilder, Jean-Pierre Boulanger (1722 - 1785), Gilder, and Charles Buteux (1719 - 1782), Painter, (monogram)The Wallace Collection

Would you have guessed this was a 250-year-old ice cream cooler? It is such an impressive and beautiful piece of porcelain, made by the Sevres factory in France which was patronised by Louis XV and his mistress Madame de Pompadour. 

Ice Cream Coolers (1778/1779) by Sèvres Manufactory, Charles-Nicolas Dodin (1734 - 1803), Painter, (flowers), Raux (1753 - 1779), Painter, (bas-reliefs and trophy), Etienne-Henry Le Guay, The Elder (1719 - 1799), Gilder, Jean-Pierre Boulanger (1722 - 1785), Gilder, and Charles Buteux (1719 - 1782), Painter, (monogram)The Wallace Collection

This piece, along with 4 other ice cream coolers and nearly 800 other pieces were commissioned by Catherine II (the Great) of Russia to form a dessert, dinner, tea and coffee, and biscuit service.

Imagine having the responsibility of transporting 800 pieces of exceptionally precious and expensive porcelain all the way from France to Russia before trains, planes, lorries, tarmacked roads and bubble wrap – even the thought induces a high level of stress!

Catherine was heavily involved in the design of these pieces, she specifically requested the incredible bright turquoise blue colour, named ‘bleu céleste’. At the time, it was the most expensive colour to produce.

Although a very decorative piece, the ice cream cooler actually did work quite well. Inside there would have been a separate bowl which held the ice cream, and sat on top of crushed ice. The deep lid would also have held ice as an extra cooling mechanism.

Looking closely at the decoration and reading the visual clues, gives an insight into Catherine’s life, interests and the image she wanted to portray of herself.

Ice Cream Coolers (1778/1779) by Sèvres Manufactory, Charles-Nicolas Dodin (1734 - 1803), Painter, (flowers), Raux (1753 - 1779), Painter, (bas-reliefs and trophy), Etienne-Henry Le Guay, The Elder (1719 - 1799), Gilder, Jean-Pierre Boulanger (1722 - 1785), Gilder, and Charles Buteux (1719 - 1782), Painter, (monogram)The Wallace Collection

The caryatid (when the female form is used instead of columns in classical architecture) handles are beautifully crafted and instantly imbue the theme of classical mythology that runs through this piece and the rest of the service. 

Portrait of Catherine II the Legislatress in the Temple of the Goddess of Justice (1783) by Dmitry LevitskyThe State Russian Museum

Classical mythology was one of Catherine II’s keen interests, but her using those motifs on a dinner service she would use publicly with those in her court, draws parallels between her rulership and that of the classical gods, elevating her status and power as a ruler. 

Ice Cream Coolers (1778/1779) by Sèvres Manufactory, Charles-Nicolas Dodin (1734 - 1803), Painter, (flowers), Raux (1753 - 1779), Painter, (bas-reliefs and trophy), Etienne-Henry Le Guay, The Elder (1719 - 1799), Gilder, Jean-Pierre Boulanger (1722 - 1785), Gilder, and Charles Buteux (1719 - 1782), Painter, (monogram)The Wallace Collection

This particular piece shows Apollo on his chariot, riding above the clouds, perhaps charging over the horizon to bring in the day, or heralding the arrival of night. Other prices show other scenes from Apollo’s life, such as his musical competition with the satyr Marsyas. 

Catherine II was also said to be a great collector of cameos, which have also been reflected on this piece – perhaps one of them is a self-portrait to make it even more clear she is portraying herself as a powerful ruler.

You can also see on the top of the handle and hanging down the sides of the top edge are beautiful gold icicles, a clue of the treat that might be within! 

Two Wine-bottle Coolers (1778) by Sèvres ManufactoryThe Wallace Collection

Due to the sheer size and splendour of this commission, it took nearly 3 years to complete between 1776 – 1779, and was at the time, one of Sevres porcelain’s most complex and expensive commissions. 

Writing Table (bureau plat), Dominique Daguerre’s shop label (1778) by Martin Carlin, At least seven plaques gilded by Jean-Baptiste-Emmanuel Vandé, Sèvres ManufactoryThe J. Paul Getty Museum

However, the 330,000 livres cost (around £756,557 in today’s money) was not paid until 1792! As you might imagine, the factory was having serious financial difficulties from being owed such an enormous sum, and was very close to bankruptcy before the payment was finally made.

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This was not Catherine’s only expensive commission however. Between 1765 and 1766, Catherine commissioned a neo-classical (the latest style) building, the Hermitage, to be built next to the winter palace where she could host small parties and hang pictures. 

Hermitage Museum by Dmitri KesselLIFE Photo Collection

The Hermitage housed the dinner service, remember, it could only cater for a dinner of 60 people! If you are Empress of Russia and of a rather large court, relatively speaking, that is quite a cosy party. 

Historic Photograph of Four Ice-cream Coolers (1778/1779) by Sèvres Manufactory, Charles-Nicolas Dodin (1734 - 1803), Painter, (flowers), Raux (1753 - 1779), Painter, (bas-reliefs and trophy), Etienne-Henry Le Guay, The Elder (1719 - 1799), Gilder, Jean-Pierre Boulanger (1722 - 1785), Gilder, and Charles Buteux (1719 - 1782), Painter, (monogram)The Wallace Collection

In 1837 however, there was a devastating fire in the winter palace and Hermitage, and many pieces, including some of this dinner service were looted and found their way onto the British art market.

Ice-cream Coolers (Seaux 'à glace') (1778) by Sèvres Manufactory, Charles-Nicolas Dodin (1734 - 1803), Painter, (flowers), Raux (1753 - 1779), Painter, (bas-reliefs and trophy), Etienne-Henry Le Guay, The Elder (1719 - 1799), Gilder, Jean-Pierre Boulanger (1722 - 1785), Gilder, and Charles Buteux (1719 - 1782), Painter, (monogram)The Wallace Collection

The 4th Marquess of Hertford brought a large number of pieces from this dinner service around the 1840s, but in 1857 kept just the four ice cream coolers and two wine coolers, and sold the rest of the pieces back to Tsar Alexander II.

Two Wine-bottle Coolers (1778) by Sèvres ManufactoryThe Wallace Collection

These well-travelled porcelain pieces journeyed from Paris to St. Petersburg, then London, and some even returned to Russia. Their travels highlight the coveted status of 18th-century French porcelain.

Ice Cream Coolers (1778/1779) by Sèvres Manufactory, Charles-Nicolas Dodin (1734 - 1803), Painter, (flowers), Raux (1753 - 1779), Painter, (bas-reliefs and trophy), Etienne-Henry Le Guay, The Elder (1719 - 1799), Gilder, Jean-Pierre Boulanger (1722 - 1785), Gilder, and Charles Buteux (1719 - 1782), Painter, (monogram)The Wallace Collection

So, next time you eat ice cream, imagine scooping it out of one of these! Or perhaps imagine what your personally commissioned dinner service complete with ice cream coolers might look like….

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