Celebrating 100 years of costumes in Russian film
Celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Gorky Film Studio
Gorky Film Studio - 100 years anniversaryGorky Film Studio
A short film dedicated to 100 years anniversary of Gorky film studio
Gorky Film Studio
The pioneering film production agency Gorky Film Studio celebrated it's 100th year anniversary with the exhibition “An old costume in the cinema". The exhibition demonstrates the costumes that were filmed in the Gorky Film Studio's movies for 100 years. There are more than 10,000 costumes in the studio collection. As a rule, clothes and accessories were either created for each film from scratch, with particular care, or bought from the general public after a targeted search. Thanks to that, dozens of original garments worn by our countrymen in late 19th - early 20th century were gathered at the studio.
Day dress and man's ensemble (1900)Gorky Film Studio
The history of Gorky Film Studio
In 1915, Mikhail Semenovich Trofimov, a merchant from Kostroma, established the Rus' film production unit (Russian: "Киноателье «Русь»") with studio facilities.
In 1924, the Rus' studio was renamed into the International Workers Relief agency (Russian: Международная рабочая помощь (Межрабпом)), abbreviated as Mezhrabpom-Rus' (Russian: Межрабпом-Русь). The first Soviet (sci-fi) film, Aelita, was filmed at this studio in 1924.
In 1928 the studio was renamed Mezhrabpomfilm (Russian: Межрабпомфильм), changing its name once again in 1936 to Soyuzdetfilm (Russian: Союздетфильм), the world's first film studio which specialized in films for children. The first soviet sound film, Road to Life, was made there in 1931. Five years later, the first soviet color film, Grunya Kurnakova, followed.
In 1936, the studio was transferred to Butyrskaya Street in Moscow. The Rus' studio, employing many actors from Konstantin Stanislavski's Moscow Art Theatre, specialized in film adaptations of Russian classics (e.g., Tolstoy's Polikushka, 1919).
Lemon-colored patterned velvet brocade costume Lemon-colored patterned velvet brocade costumeGorky Film Studio
1940 - 2015
During World War II the film studio was evacuated to Dushanbe and merged with Tadjikfilm. Upon returning to Moscow, the studio was given the name of Maxim Gorky (in 1948). Between 1963 and 2004 its full name was Maxim Gorky Central Film Studio for Children and Youth (Russian: Центральная киностудия детских и юношеских фильмов им. М. Горького).
Since the 1950s, the Gorɢky Film Studio has been involved into dubbing foreign features. A humorous "film-magazine" for children, Yeralash, has been filmed at this studio since 1975. Until the fall of the Soviet Union, the Gorky Studio had a branch in Yalta. The studio survived the dissolution of the USSR; it is now a private venture.
By the end of the Soviet Union, Gorky Film Studio had produced more than 1,000 films. Many film classics were shot at Gorky Film Studio throughout its history and some of these were granted international awards at various film festivals.
Over the recent years, the film studio’s sewing shop has fulfilled the order of Bolshoi Theatre for Traviata performance, made the garments for the main female character of The Barber of Siberia, as well as the costumes for the staging of Eugene Onegin at Novaya Opera Theatre, and for the TV series 'Anna Karenina' by Karen Shakhnazarov.
Women’s hat (1925)Gorky Film Studio
Timeline
1924: Aelita (silent film), directed by Yakov Protazanoy
1926: Mother (silent film), directed by Vsevolod Pudovkin
1927:The End of St. Petersburg (silent film), directed by Vsevolod Pudovkin
1931: Road to Life (first soviet sound film), directed by Nikolai Ekk
1934: Revolt of the Fishermen (drama), directed by Erwin Piscator
1936: Grunya Kornakova (Solovej-solovushko) (first soviet color film), directed by Nikolai Ekk
1964: Jack Frost (fantasy film), directed by Alexander Rou
1967: Commissar (drama), directed by Aleksandr Askoldov
1973: Seventeen Moments of Spring (war film), directed by Tatiana Lioznova
1981: The Sixth One (ostern), directed by Samvel Gasparov
1984: Copper Angel, directed by Veniamyn Dorman
1985: Guest from the Future (science-fiction), directed by Pavel Arsenov
1988: Little Vera (drama), directed by Vasili Pichul
1989: The Witches Cave (science-fiction), directed by Yuri Moroz
2004: Arie (drama), directed by Roman Kachanov
Pearls of the collection
Gorky Film Studio’s collection of costumes embraces the period from the middle of the 18th century to the present day. It features not only the items indicative of this or that time span, but also the variety of clothes characteristic of different classes of society. Those are masterpieces from the imperial wardrobe, costumes by prestigious Parisian dressmakers, as well as unique works by anonymous or unknown tailors.
Brown silk dress and handbag (1900)Gorky Film Studio
Collecting costumes
Noble and well-to-do ladies had their clothes made not only at the best fashion houses of Moscow and St. Petersburg, but also in Paris, London, and Vienna. This is evidenced by a great number of dresses created by European designers.
Collecting costumes
These items stood the test of time and became the gem of the studio’s collection. Such costumes are distinguished by superb craftsmanship and a high quality of materials and finishing. Generally, those were ball dresses ordered by Russian fashion mongers from abroad.
1966: Dress worn by Bela in A Hero of Our Time
This costume was worn by the actress Silvia Berova and designed Elza Rapoport. The costume is made of jacquard fabric and decorated with brocade appliqué, machine lurex embroidery, “Caucasian” silver braid, and chest clasps of the early 20th century. The shawl is made of silk.
1967: The Dress
Acquired for the movie "The Nutcracker", an unrealized project. Costume designer Natalia Schneider.
Brown fay with a coupon woven vegetative pattern in tone and blue. It was made of agramant, taffeta ribbons of milky-white color, with a ruler made of brown fay. The lower edge is hemmed with a tape.
1967: Dress for the departure
Acquired for the movie "The Nutcracker", an unrealized project.
Costume designer Natalia Schneider.
The firm "A. Felix brevete. 15 Faub. S.-Honore Paris. " Taft shanzhan pink-blue color, covered with black silk tulle in a fly. It is made of green silk velvet, ruffles of taffeta shanzhan and dimensional black lace - type "valenciennes".
1989: "A trip to Wiesbaden"
Costume designer Natalia Schneider. Actress Natalia Lapina, the role - Mary Nikolaevna Polozova.
Dress made of semi-silk satin with amethyst color. It is made of black silk lace, lace with application motifs, embroidery with a tambour and beads.
1975: "The Peasant's Son"
Costume designer Vera Skopinova.
Dress (bodice, skirt) of gray-blue moire. Made with lace motifs of ecru color, embroidered pawns
And artificial pearls. Douglas of semi-silk twill pink.
Dress made of black cotton tulle.
It is made of pleated satin ribbons, shiny pawns, faceted beads, pleated frill of silk gas in tone.
Sleeves, skirt and waistband are lost.
Manual and machine work.
The beginning of the XX century, Russia.
The dress is a one-piece with a train
The dress is a one-piece with a train (the style of "reforms") made of fine black wool. It is made by black silk machine lace on a lining of taffeta of color ecru, embroidery on a tulle faceted beads and shining pawns in tone. Manual and machine work. The middle of the 1900s, Russia. The lower skirt is made of taffeta in the color of ecru. It is made of pleated chisel frills, zigzag-shaped protectors. Manual and machine work. The middle of the 1900s, Russia.
Dress made of a thin silk satin coffee color
It was made of silk rep, machine-colored tulle of ecru color, with a shade. The tight buttons are embroidered with a tambour and in knotted technique. A silk dubler.
Manual and machine work.
The middle of the 1910s, Russia.
A dress (bodice, skirt)
A dress (bodice, skirt) made of patterned silk of ecru color. It was made by silk machine lace, embroidery with pawns, artificial pearls, beads, glass beads, mother of pearl glitter, large buttons for mother of pearl, metallized soutache, silk gas. The belt is draped from silk satin ribbon. Dubler of thin linen.
Manual and machine work.
The end of the 1900s, Russia.
Acquired for the film "A Man on the Other Side" (1971); Costume designer Elsa Rapoport.
Wedding dress
The dress is made of silk satin of ecru color. It is made of silk machine lace (type "Blondes") and embroidery with a hare in tone. A silk dubler.
Manual and machine work.
The beginning of the 1910s, Russia.
A dress (bodice, skirt)
A dress (bodice, skirt) made of wool marquis of ecru color, embroidered with a mulina in tone and blue. It is trimmed.
Manual and machine work.
The middle of the 1910s, Russia.
Acquired for the film "Password is not needed" (1967); Costume designer Natalia Panova.
Brown dress
A dress made of brown silk. It is made of crepe de couture of ecru color and pleated ruffles. Shemisetka from cotton machine tulle with an insert from a lace of manual work (type "Brussels") on crepe dee.
Manual and machine work.
The 1920s, Western Europe.
Acquired for the film "Tatyana's Day" (1967); Costume designer Elsa Rapoport.
Milk-white dress
Dress made of milk-white awning. Embroidered in tone and pink iris. Case made of cotton twill.
Manual and machine work.
Early 1920s, the USSR.
Acquired for the film "Tatyana's Day" (1967); Costume designer Elsa Rapoport.
Embroidered chiffon dress
A dress made of embroidered chiffon with a printed pattern. Embroidered with beads, artificial pearls. A cover made of a thin silk satin with a color of ecru with a lace yoke and a ruffle from a cotton tulle embroidered with a tambour on the bottom.
Manual and machine work.
The end of the 1920s, Western Europe.
Acquired for the film "Earth, on Demand" (1972); Costume designer Eleonora Maklakova.
Black evening dress
The evening dress is made of black stitches. It is made of pleated folds, silk embroidered with a tambour, with a glass bead in tone. Silk muslin pouch in tone.
Manual and machine work.
Around 1920, Western Europe.
Acquired for the film "Tatyana's Day" (1967); Costume designer Elsa Rapoport.
Evening crepe dress
The evening dress is made of crepe and tulle of black color. Embroidered with black and blue beads. The cover is lost.
Manual and machine work.
Around 1920, probably Western Europe.
Acquired for the film "Password is not needed" (1967); Costume designer Natalia Panova.
Drape from white cloth
Embroidered with gold thread embroidered. Lining of silk satin in the tone overlapping batistom.
Handmade.
The end of the 1890s, Russia.
Acquired for the film "Feast of Belshazzar, or Night with Stalin" (1989); Costume designer Berta Kuratov.
Cape of black silk gas
It is made in the technique of a sliced pattern on a cotton net. It is made of braid of ecru color, two rows of scarfs, hand-made lace (ecru color). Lining of silk satin red-brown color.
Manual and machine work.
The end of the 1890s, Russia.
Used for the film "Little Princess" (1998); Costume designer Regina Chomskaya. Actress Nastya Miskova, the role - Sarah Crewe.
Sortie-de-Bal from moire ecru
Trimmed with a band of ostrich feathers in the same tone. The lining is made of silk kanaya in tone. Hand and machine work. Circa 1900-ies, Russia. Purchased for a film "Peter the Great" (1986); costume designer Eleonora Maklakova.
Skirt ball gown of silk lace "Pointe-Las" ecru. From the inside to the bottom edge sewn the frill of silk gauze tonal. Handmade. Mid 1900s, Russia. Acquired for the films "the Man from the other side" (1971); costume designer Elsa Rapoport. The underskirt is taffeta ecru. To the lower edge chipping jacket sewn frill. Machine-made. Around 1900, Russia. Purchased for the movie "Hold on to the clouds" (1971); costume designer Vyacheslav Zaitsev.
Sortie-de-Bal and Dress
Sortie-de-Bal from patterned silk. Silk pleated gas. Taffeta lining in tone.
Hand and machine work.
Circa 1900-ies, Russia.
Dress (bodice, skirt) from semi-silk satin ecru. The bodice is trimmed with Shu and cotton machine lace with lace, skirt pleats setochnye on the machine. Deblur of fine linen.
Hand and machine work.
Circa 1900-ies, Russia.
Black Sortie-de-Bal and Dress
Sortie-de-Bal of black silk, decorated with embroidery, matte sequins on agramante, silk ribbon, a fringe of sparkles and matte black faceted beads to match. Pleated ruffles taffeta — remake. Lined with black taffeta. Stamp of the firm woven terracotta silk: "Trading House of Br. N. and Petuhova unto the City of Moscow". Hand and machine work. The late 1890s, Russia.
Dress skirt of black taffeta in the technique of cutting the pattern on a silk mesh. Silk braid sewn with a machine chain stitch, ruffles of silk gauze and taffeta jacket to match. Deblur lost. Hand and machine work. The beginning of the 1900s, Russia.
The bodice of a silk reps
The bodice of a silk reps pistachio color. Finished with pink gas, chiffon, lace, metallic thread, lace guipure ecru. Doubler of light green taffeta.
The mark of the company printed in gold: "E. K. Sinyavsky. Dresses, coats. Moscow".
Hand and machine work.
The beginning of the 1900s, Russia.
The bodice of silk satin ecru
Trimmed with pleats, a narrow black silk ribbon and machine-sewn tonal brown tulle. Doubler of cotton fabric.
Hand and machine work.
Mid 1900s, Russia.
Maybe the bodice was the model for the creation of costume Faina Ranevskaya, character — Nastasya Timofeyevna Zhigalova, mother of the bride in the movie "the Wedding" (1944); costume designer Semyon Mandel.
The bodice
The bodice is made of beige patterned silk. Trimmed with pleats and agromania. Deblur of pink cotton.
Hand and machine work.
The late 1890s, Russia.
Purple crepe Bodice
The bodice is made of purple crepe de Chine. Handmade and embroidered with silk and beaded silk muslin, machine lace and satin ribbons ecru. A belt made of purple silk satin. Deblur taffeta.
Hand and machine work.
The beginning of the 1910s, Russia.
Tunic
Tunic of machine tulle black and ecru. Trimmed with machine lace and embroidery tambour ecru, faceted beads, small shiny sequins and laid in the folds of a moire ribbon of black colour.
Handmade.
The beginning of the 1910s, Russia.
The uniform of a court Chamberlain
The uniform of a court Chamberlain of black cloth, single breasted. The collar and cuffs of red cloth. On the collar, sides, back and sleeves shaped stitching in the form of embossed coils of gold braid. The buttons are gilt, convex, with applied eagle and rim of the specimen in 1863. Stand-up collar. Sleeve double seam. On the left shelf is a hole for the sword.
Chamberlain’s dress coat
Military apparel and uniforms hold a special place in the costume collection of Gorky Film Studio.
This chamberlain’s dress coat made in the style characteristic of 1855-1856 is among its most outstanding items. It existed in its initial form without any significant alterations until 1917. It was in this dress coat that the legendary actor Alexander Vertinsky played the role of the prince in "Anna on the Neck" (1955).
This coat was worn with long trousers of white wool with stripes of gold lace, a bicorne hat, and a chamberlain’s gilded key on a blue moire ribbon. The key symbolized the right of access to the emperor’s chamber.
Coat of cotton velvet in a light green color
Coat of cotton velvet in a light green color. Grosgrain-trimmed satin ecru, and metallic cord. Lining is cotton twill. Buttons made of brocade and decorated with embroidery.
Hand and machine work.
Kaftan cotton dark green velvet
Trimmed with metallic braid, machine embroidery. Cotton lining.
Hand and machine work.
Kaftan of the patterned brocade
Kaftan of the patterned brocade of the late XIX — early XX centuries. Trimmed with beaver lamb skin, velvet, a silk cord.
Hand and machine work.
"The ballad of Bering and his friends" (1970); costume designer Jacob Rivas. Actor Oleg Basilashvili, the role of Prince Ivan Dolgorukov; actor Leonid Kuravlev, role — Tishin.
Sundress of blue purple cotton velvet
Trimmed with metallic braid and applique of patterned brocade and braid the end of XIX — beginning of XX centuries, metallic soutache and braid machine embroidery. Lined with grosgrain satin.
Hand and machine work.
Ferezeya of patterned velvet brocade
Ferezeya of patterned velvet brocade of the late XIX — early XX centuries. Trimmed with metallic braid, cord, fur.
Hand and machine work.
"Ivan Fedorov" (1941); artist Joseph Spinel. A suit of one of the boyars at the court of Tsar Ivan IV the terrible.
Coat of cotton velvet
Trimmed in grosgrain satin, appliqued, machine embroidered, metallic thread, artificial pearls. Lined with cotton sateen.
Machine and hand work.
"Barbara, beauty, long braid" (1969); costume designer Sonia Voitenko. Actor Mikhail Pugovkin, role — Jeremiah king.
Half-caftan of patterned velvet
Half-caftan of patterned velvet brocade XIX — beginning of XX centuries lemon-colored. Trimmed with plush, metallic braid and lace, decorative plaques, imitation pearls. Lined with cotton sateen.
Hand and machine work.
"Fire, water and copper pipes" (1967); costume designer Sonia Voitenko. Actor Valentin Bryleev, the role of the Court of the Kingdom of flattery.
Crown (1986)Gorky Film Studio
The crown
Lino, soutache, faux stones, rhinestones, faux pearl, beads gold coated cord. Ties of patterned brocade of the late XIX — early XX century, metallic fringe. Lining is silk.
Hats (1980) by Eleonora MaklakovaGorky Film Studio
Kaptur
Brocade, Lino, metallic braid, rhinestones, faux pearls, beads, gold-covered cord.
Handmade.
"Youth of Peter" (1980); costume designer Eleonora Maklakova. Actress Tamara Makarova, role — Natalia Kirillovna, the mother of Peter.
Diamond hats (1980) by Eleonora MaklakovaGorky Film Studio
Diamond Hat
Metal, artificial stones, rhinestones old Korean.
Handmade.
"Figure of Peter" (1980); costume designer Eleonora Maklakova. Dmitry scrofula actors and roles — Peter I.
"Peter the Great" (1986); costume designer Eleonora Maklakova. Sin machr actors and roles — 10-year-old Peter.
Black and white bonnets (1976) by Eleonora MaklakovaGorky Film Studio
Kapor
Wool mix, Lino, grosgrain, satin, silk, lace, satin ribbons, silk Garus, ostrich quack.
Handmade.
"Chewer and black" (1976); costume designer Eleonora Maklakova. Actress Natalya Bondarchuk, starring — Madame de Renal.
Hat (1989) by Natalia SchneiderGorky Film Studio
Velvet Hat
Velvet, Lino, gas, Theatrical, lace and metallic Tasma, agramant, buttons, cock, ostrich and healers.
Handmade.
"A trip to Visbale" (1989); costume designer Natalia Schneider. Actress Natalia Lapina, role — Maria Nikolaevna Polozovа.
Crown, collar and bracelets (1980) by Eleonora MaklakovaGorky Film Studio
The crown
Metal, pearls and artificial stones.
Handmade.
"Peter the Great" (1986); costume designer Eleonora Maklakova. Actress Natalia Andreichenko, role — Evdokia Lopukhina.
Eleonora Maklakova,
Natalia Schneider,
Iosif Shpinel,
Eugene Galey,
Sonia Voitenko,
Elsa Rapoport,
Jacob Rivas,
You are all set!
Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.