ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Gabriela EneSemne Cusute Association
A Romanian traditional outfit is closely connected to nature. This starts, first and foremost, with the materials we choose to work with. As you explore this album, you’ll discover how each material has both practical benefits and deep spiritual meaning in our tradition.
The fabric is plain-woven from linen and hemp. Created from plants with robust and elegant fibers, grown from our rich earth, the fabric symbolizes the importance of the grounded, tangible world.
The delicate silk used for embroidery is obtained from silk moths, hinting at a world of small flying insects and wonders of the infinite sky. The metallic shine in our thread and sequins comes from minerals deep within the earth, connecting us to the underworld.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Antonela IordacheSemne Cusute Association
As observed on the embroidery of Romanian shirts, the mesmerizing variety of textures, colors and symbols mirrors our diverse society and fashion.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Mirela LunguSemne Cusute Association
Throughout history, Romanian women wanted to mix and match as many materials, elements and techniques as possible. Aware of our geopolitical positioning, we aimed to keep western and eastern cultural influences in a harmonious balance.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ana Maria StamaSemne Cusute Association
Yet, at the foundation of this abundant creativity and explosive visual expression lay a unifying set of values which most women shared and faithfully depicted through their embroidery: a Romanian blouse is an ode to nature, in reverence to its creations.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cosmina ChireleanSemne Cusute Association
Nature is also the main source of inspiration for the patterns they designed and embroidered.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Adriana VisanSemne Cusute Association
Nature inspired textile arts in many cultures on the globe
Every culture has one or several icons selected from their flora and at least one totem-animal. These symbols are depicted on textiles to remind us how much we owe to these creatures, from food, to protection, medicine, commerce, inspiration, glory, and so on.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cristina IonescuSemne Cusute Association
The big bear, the fierce wolf, the wise snake, the dynamic ram, they all represent totem figures in Romanian folklore. Yet none of them are to be found in our intricate embroideries. How come?
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cristina IonescuSemne Cusute Association
It might come as unexpected that our ancestors chose to depict the smallest and most modest creatures of all: the insects.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Roxana ConstantinescuSemne Cusute Association
In close connection with their gardens, meadows, forests and orchards, these women understood the crucial importance of insects, to whom they were grateful for all the plentiful sources of food and medicine, fruits, vegetables, flowers and herbs.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ana VasileSemne Cusute Association
Beekeeping was spread in the entire Romanian cultural space
Steadily interwoven with our history and seen as an ancient occupation since time immemorial. In our folklore we find tales which mention the bee as God’s favorite, assisting Him as ambassador, negotiator and keeper of secrets.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Mariana MuresanSemne Cusute Association
Honey was the golden sweetener used for ceremonial breads baked for Christmas and Easter. The wax was used as a base for candles. Bee venom and other derivative products are still used to this day to improve our health and immune system.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Angelica CostacheSemne Cusute Association
The bee is just one example of how each insect, no matter how small and insignificant it might look, has its role and great importance in preserving biodiversity.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Victoria TaranuSemne Cusute Association
Do you think ladybugs are around just for show?
They are in fact very helpful to gardeners, as they protect the crops, feeding on harmful insects like fruit flies, mites and thrips. Spiders and dragonflies play a similar role.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cosmina ChireleanSemne Cusute Association
Caterpillars look puzzling, but are crucial for biodiversity
Sure, they eat some leaves as they grow, but later on, they mature into butterflies and become truly important pollinators for many different species of plants. In addition to pollination, they are a food source for birds, bats and even frogs.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ioana CorduneanuSemne Cusute Association
We can not have healthy ecosystems without insects
In this case, scientific studies confirm what women of the past knew from their own observation and intuition. The presence of many types of insects is an indicator of a healthy environment.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Laura LapovitaSemne Cusute Association
These observations inspired women in their daily work
Insect behavior was a very useful indicator for key moments throughout agricultural cycles. Changes in insect behaviour, just like bird or animal migration, signaled to farmers that they could plan for mowing or harvesting crops, often in sync with suitable weather.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Angelica CostacheSemne Cusute Association
Bees also inspired our social gatherings
Busy as bees in a hive, throughout our history, women used to gather and work together, to keep themselves motivated and focused, supporting each other and enjoying each other's company.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Anca BadiuSemne Cusute Association
The structure of the beehive was also fascinating
The pattern was often depicted on the altița or shoulder embroidery of Romanian shirts. It is the most densely embroidered part, the pièce de résistance, often filled with this hexagonal structure, as a symbol for efficient organization of space, in balance and visual harmony.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Elena MaziluSemne Cusute Association
Even if we put all these benefits and wisdom aside
Insects are amazing for their gracious shapes, attractive symmetry and striking colors. These alone could have been enough reasons for women to keep them in high regard and offer them a special place on our shirts, but alas, there is a spiritual side to everything we craft.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Filofteia StrambeanuSemne Cusute Association
In modern city life insects often seem as intruders
We are offered a chance to meditate on the subject while we embroider, working on our shirts with repetitive and mindful gestures, depicting so many insects and natural symbols. Why insects, and why so many… and after all, why not one big brown bear or a proud peacock?
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Macrina VintilaSemne Cusute Association
Bee after bee, ant after ant, bug after bug, we repeat them like small yet strong mantras. Insects are important, crucial for our own life and health. This is why they are precious and this is why we often enrich them with gold thread or sequins.
We have to appreciate their existence and play our part, as much as we can, to protect them before they become extinct.
Insects inspired us at Semne Cusute to work on a very special exhibition which we’ll be happy to present very soon.
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