The aspirational sheen around the word ‘travel’ is a niche, modern phenomenon. For a majority of human history, travel was painful, expensive and dangerous—and only attempted when it was riskier to stay. The most heroic journeys even today are undertaken by those seeking not adventure, but asylum. A shared genetic memory of these migrations connects us all. And it stirs at the promise of the open road.
There’s a poignant resilience to the artefacts that travel with us. A handful of letters, photographs and sketches, a bottle of coins. They carry the precious cargo of our memories and our stories.
High Seas, Open Roads: Entrance - Installation ShotSarmaya Arts Foundation
From a dream in Delhi to a museum in Mumbai, the story of Sarmaya is shaped by such journeys. It started in the 4th Century CE when 72 refugee families from Turkey arrived on the coast of Kerala, and it grew as Paul Abraham, a descendant of that line, followed his curiosity through the bylanes of India’s history and art.
We invite you to retrace those steps through souvenirs, sights and immersive soundscapes that remind us of where we’ve been.
A City On The Move
On a map of Mumbai, the southernmost end looks like an open palm rising up to clasp the sea in a firm handshake. Most apt for a city built for ease of doing business. Except that nothing about making a home here is or ever was easy.
High Seas, Open Roads: A city on the move - Installation ShotSarmaya Arts Foundation
Scenery, Costumes and Architecture, Chiefly on the Western Side of India (1826) by Robert GrindlaySarmaya Arts Foundation
It took two hundred years of territorial skirmishes with the Arabian Sea to stitch together the seven islands making up this outstretched hand. Elsewhere, empires rose and fell.
Silver Rupee of Bombay Mint Silver Rupee of Bombay Mint (AH 1140 / 1727 CE)Sarmaya Arts Foundation
Coins issued at the Bombay mint carry imprints of the ‘colourful’ king (Muhammad Shah) who witnessed the plunder of his kingdom, and the pragmatic queen (Victoria) who presided over the golden era of hers.
Silver Rupee of Bombay Mint Silver Rupee of Bombay Mint (AH 1140 / 1727 CE)Sarmaya Arts Foundation
Silver 1/4 Rupee of Bombay Mint Silver 1/4 Rupee of Bombay Mint (1840 CE) by Queen VictoriaSarmaya Arts Foundation
Ripples from these seismic events lapped against the shores of a city still coalescing.
Silver 1/4 Rupee of Bombay Mint Silver 1/4 Rupee of Bombay Mint (1840 CE) by Queen VictoriaSarmaya Arts Foundation
Panoramic View, Bombay, c.1870s-1900s (1870s-1900s) by Unidentified PhotographerSarmaya Arts Foundation
By the end of the 19th-century, when photography arrived, the patchwork project was more or less complete. Using top-down perspectives, images of the time made by photographers, like William Johnson, and studios, like Bourne and Shepherd, present a neatly realised, fully-formed Bombay.
Panorama of the Back Bay (Marine Drive), Bombay (1870s-1900s) by Colin Murray; Bourne and Shepherd StudioSarmaya Arts Foundation
Panoramic views of the bay, aerial shots of streets and landmarks, entire communities represented by small groups standing in solemn tableaus. Was our Mumbai ever so meek?
Mahars (1855-1862) by William JohnsonSarmaya Arts Foundation
Karnatika Brahmins (1855-1862) by William JohnsonSarmaya Arts Foundation
Old Mumbai (2022) by Saju KunhanSarmaya Arts Foundation
Two centuries after the city was sewn together, artists like Saju Kunhan are examining its jagged edges. 'Old Mumbai' is an aching acknowledgment of the injustice and isolation experienced by the millions of hands that keep this island afloat.
On the way to the dargah - Namdeo Dhasal
This poem was curated to accompany William Johnson's ethnographic portraits and Saju Kunhan's 'Old Mumbai'. Namdeo Dhasal was one of Mumbai's foremost poets and a founding member of the Dalit Panthers. His poetry spoke for the Mumbai's most marginalised with great clarity, on whose labour the city is built.
Our City: Regenerating Hope (2021) by Mayur & Tushar VayedaSarmaya Arts Foundation
On the other hand, Mayur and Tushar Vayeda’s Our City: Regenerating Hope is an audacious blueprint calling upon us to build again, to build better.
Bruising realism and soaring optimism. You need a little bit of both to make a home here.
Seeking India
While writing about their great Indian adventure, 18th-century travellers would often run out of words and paint a picture. Sometimes, these were pencil sketches hurriedly made on the road. Sometimes, they were sumptuous painterly feasts, bursting with colour and character. As another famous traveller to India, Ibn Battuta observed, “Travelling—it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller.”
High Seas, Open Roads: Seeking India - Installation shotSarmaya Arts Foundation
Baroche on the banks of Nerbudda in Guzerat (1834 CE) by James Forbes & J. ShurySarmaya Arts Foundation
India could make a storyteller out of anyone: bankers, army officers, bored wives of the Empire. Just getting here was an epic saga of months sailing the monsoon winds. Once they arrived, our colonial visitors were constantly on the move.
Illustrations to Oriental Memoirs. With Explanatory Notices (1835 CE) by James ForbesSarmaya Arts Foundation
As work took them to ports, army bases and mofussil towns around the country, their pens flew furiously over reams and reams of paper, trying to keep up.
Wanderings of a Pilgrim, in search of the Picturesque, Vol I (1850 CE) by Fanny ParkesSarmaya Arts Foundation
Despite aesthetic similarities due to the prevailing trend of the ‘picturesque’, no two travellers’ accounts from the time are the same.
Wanderings of a Pilgrim, in search of the Picturesque, Vol I Wanderings of a Pilgrim, in search of the Picturesque, Vol I (1850 CE) by Fanny ParkesSarmaya Arts Foundation
As a solo woman travelling in the early 1800s, Fanny Parkes memoir of exploring the country on an Arab horse is very different from the account of military men, like General Frederic Peter Layard of the 19th Bengal Native Infantry.
Wanderings of a Pilgrim, in search of the Picturesque, Vol I Wanderings of a Pilgrim, in search of the Picturesque, Vol I (1850 CE) by Fanny ParkesSarmaya Arts Foundation
Listen to a snippet of Parkes's adventure at the 'Burra Mela' as she calls it, or the Kumbh Mela as we know it, from January, 1833.
Line of March of Bengal Regiment of Infantry in Scinde Line of March of Bengal Regiment of Infantry in Scinde (1843 CE) by F. P. LayardSarmaya Arts Foundation
Where one (Parkes) delighted in collecting lore and conveying the sense of freedom she felt here, the other (Layard) took pride in cataloguing his troops with regimented precision.
Line of March of Bengal Regiment of Infantry in Scinde Line of March of Bengal Regiment of Infantry in Scinde (1843 CE) by F. P. LayardSarmaya Arts Foundation
Calicut, on the coast of Malabar (1834 CE) by James Forbes & J. ShurySarmaya Arts Foundation
What’s remarkable about these centuries-old travelogues is they can still fill you with wanderlust. With an urge to watch, through James Forbes’s eyes, the tempestuous approach of the southwest monsoon from a stormy black horizon off the coast of Kerala.
East view of Bangalore, with the Cypress garden, from a Pagoda (1804-1805 CE) by Lieutenant James Hunter (1755-1792) & H. Merke (a.1799-1820)Sarmaya Arts Foundation
To admire, with James Hunter, the serene symmetry of the cypress grove in Bangalore’s Lalbagh Garden.
The Jahaz Mahal or Water Palace, Mandoo (1859 CE) by Captain Claudius Harris (1826-1862) & J. Guiaud (1810-1876)Sarmaya Arts Foundation
To discover the noble ruins of Mandu, lit by the watercolour-sunlight of Jacques Guiaud. To see India anew, through the eyes of a traveller.
Into the Stars
Perhaps the closest we will come to experiencing what medieval explorers felt as they sailed into a dark region on the map is when we look up at the sky. Curiosity, fear and an uncomfortable awareness of how very small we are. The map may no longer hold many mysteries for us but faced with the vast oblivion of space, we still look for the pinpricks of light shone by faith, science and art.
High Seas, Open Roads: Inward Journeys - Installation shotSarmaya Arts Foundation
Loka Purusha by Unidentified ArtistSarmaya Arts Foundation
Faith is an ancient compass to navigate unknowable worlds. Jain philosophy maps the multiverse onto the body of the ‘Loka Purusha’. Every sphere of existence, from the godly to the earthly to the unholy, is contained within the human form.
Venus Transit, The Endeavour (2020 -2021) by Desmond LazaroSarmaya Arts Foundation
Although belonging to a different school of Indian painting, Desmond Lazaro’s art also exists in the realm where human journeys intersect with celestial ones for a brief, radiant moment.
Jahangir, Aries Zodiac Silver Rupee of Ahmedabad Mint. (c. 1618) by Emperor JahangirSarmaya Arts Foundation
Astrology offers a playground, equidistant from faith and science, where we may traverse the planets with a spirit of whimsy.
Taurus Zodiac, Silver Rupee of Ahmedabad Mint (c. 1618) by JahangirSarmaya Arts Foundation
Consider the zodiac series of Jahangir, whose unconventional experiments with design and calligraphy produced some of the most beautiful coins of the Mughal era.
Cancer Zodiac, Silver Rupee of Ahmedabad Mint (c. 1618) by JahangirSarmaya Arts Foundation
Map of Constellations (2020) by Annelie SolisSarmaya Arts Foundation
Annelie Solis shares the Emperor’s fascination with astronomy and her painting Map Of The Constellations connects heaven and earth through its use of natural pigments, foraged and processed by the artist’s hand.
Pale Blue Dot (2023) by Jethro BuckSarmaya Arts Foundation
Working in a similar tradition, Jethro Buck recreates the famous 1972 NASA photograph of Earth as seen from a spacecraft on its way to the moon.
Pale Blue Dot is the impassioned plea of an artist urging us to protect this “tiny, fragile jewel floating in the infinite expanse of space”. This luminous blue marble where all our journeys begin and end. This living marvel we call home.
This excerpt from author Carl Sagan's eponymous book 'Pale Blue Dot' was curated to accompany Jethro Buck's painting. Carl Sagan's interpretation of the famous NASA photo directly inspired Buck's painting.
Travelling Selves
The concluding section documents artworks shaped by the experience of migration.
High Seas, Open Roads: Travelling Selves - Installation shotSarmaya Arts Foundation
Serpent Deity 3 (2022) by Sayan ChandaSarmaya Arts Foundation
Textiles are the earliest travellers from India, sailing along ancient sea routes. Kolkata-born, London-based artist Sayan Chanda uses them to create tactile sculptures that explore collective memories and mythologies.
The 13th-century Bengali ballad of snake goddess, Manasa, is traditionally told by the travelling Patua artists of northeastern India. Chanda’s Serpent Deity series channels the raw, emotional force of Manasa’s lore, narrated to him by his mother in childhood.
Yellow Spikey Figure (2023) by Ramesh Mario NithiyendranSarmaya Arts Foundation
In foreign lands, cultures clash joyously to birth fresh idioms. Ramesh Mario Nithiyendran’s threshold-dwelling figures, guardians of the crossroads, are the result of these unpredictable collisions.
They reflect the sculptor’s multiple identities as a Sri Lankan-born Australian who grew up navigating Hindu and Catholic traditions at home. He is influenced by a variety of religious and mythological South Asian art, from the Gandharan to Hindu and Buddhist temple sculptures.
Vishwaroopa Hanuman (2019-2020) by Sindhe Chithambara RaoSarmaya Arts Foundation
We carry our stories wherever we go, wrapped around the silver tongues of our bards. Tholu Bommalata, meaning ‘the dance of the leather dolls’ in Telugu, is shadow puppetry practised by itinerant artists from Andhra Pradesh and Telangana.
Family troupes, like those of National Award-winning artist Sindhe Chithambara Rao, travel from village to village performing tales from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. The Vishwaroopa Hanuman depicts the deity in his cosmic form, vast as the universe.
The Sarmaya film Tholu Bommalata - Dance of the Shadow Puppets was curated to accompany Sindhe Chithambara Rao's 'Vishwaroopa Hanuman' for the exhibition. Watch to understand how this venerable art is practiced by following the Sindhe family.
Bateau I (2016) by Rithika MerchantSarmaya Arts Foundation
Travel is a leap of faith and sometimes, an act of desperation. Bateau I and II tell of the harrowing journeys made by refugees across the Mediterranean Sea during the European migrant crisis of 2015.
The eyes in the work follow us as we look on and away, precariously adrift in the ocean, and then from the ocean floor.
Bateau II (2016) by Rithika MerchantSarmaya Arts Foundation
Witnessing these events from her adopted city of Barcelona, Rithika Merchant conveys the sense of helplessness she felt as the Mediterranean turned into the “sea of the dead”.
Curation: Sarmaya Arts Foundation
Paul Abraham, Pavitra Rajaram, Komal Chitnis, Deepa Menon, Alisha Sadikot, Aparna Ramachandran, Amritha Nair, Kyra Ranjan, Shardul Deshpande
Design & Installation: Pavitra Rajaram Design
Pavitra Rajaram, Shahram Randeria, Rukaiya Lokhandwala, Aparna Kale, Vaidarbhi More
Editorial Content: Deepa Menon
Research & Outreach Support: Sarmaya Arts Foundation
Pooja Ashokkumar, Rukaiya Madraswala, Sarah Barboze, Pallavi Pillai
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