Nylon: From Labs to Legs

Initially called Fiber 66, DuPont launched the term “nylon” in 1938 at a New York press event. Nylon was the successful product of over a decade of research into molecules and how they are made.

In 1939 when nylon’s large-scale production began, DuPont had already invested 27 million dollars into its research, development, engineering, and production.

In 1935, Fiber 66, later known as nylon, was first created at the DuPont Experimental Station in Wilmington, Delaware. Chemist Wallace Carothers led the successful team that researched the synthesis of molecules and discovered nylon. 

Many people were involved in nylon’s research, development, and production. Photographed in the lab is Carothers’s assistant, Joseph Labovsky.

A major breakthrough of DuPont’s extensive research project came fairly early on. In 1931 DuPont chemist Julian Hill discovered a polymer with elastic properties that could be drawn out from a test tube into a fiber.  However, its low melting point made it unsuitable for commercial textile production.

Hill’s discovery presented for the first time the possibility of creating useful fibers from fully synthetic materials. This was revolutionary, as other “synthetic” materials like rayon were based on natural derivatives like wood pulp. Inspired by Hill’s technique, Carothers and his team were able to cold-draw nylon years later.

DuPont’s research directors and managerial staff quickly identified the commercial potential of synthetic fibers. Nylon production was scaled up from the first ounce produced in a test tube to a pilot plant and eventually to large-scale production. This photograph shows DuPont technicians casting nylon from a 250-pound autoclave.

Nylon, seen here as a hot polymer ribbon after polymerization, will undergo many more transformations before it can be used as stockings. In the next phase, the ribbon is wound onto a reel and then fragmented into nylon pellets for spinning. 

Nylon pellets are fed into a spinning machine at the DuPont Pilot Plant, as demonstrated here by employee Mike McCall. After being poured into this five-position spinning machine, nylon changes its shape again. It is melted once more before being spun into filaments.

In 1939 DuPont presented nylon at its “Wonder World of Chemistry” exhibit at the New York World’s Fair. The display celebrated their slogan of “Better Things for Better Living…Through Chemistry.” 

DuPont wanted the American public to get a better understanding of the many ways in which chemistry could improve everyday life.

In this advertisement, reprinted from an October issue of The Woman’s Forum, nylon is presented as the latest discovery by DuPont’s chemists for the “World of Tomorrow.” Its dreamy references to a better future supported by DuPont’s chemical advancements offered hope a month after the outbreak of war in Europe.

This spread is from a DuPont promotional booklet that may have been distributed to visitors at the company’s New York World’s Fair exhibit. 

Nylon found application in many everyday products like toothbrush bristles and surgical sutures. However, one of its most popular uses was in women’s hosiery. Made from air, water, and coal, nylon yarn could be spun into delicate sheer stockings and captured the imagination of the American public.

Demand for nylon stockings far outstripped supply. In 1940, nylon’s first year of commercial production, approximately 64 million pairs of nylon stockings were manufactured and sold.

Wearing this synthetic alternative to silk became a fashionable political act as the U.S. was in conflict with Japan, which supplied 90% of raw silk imports.

This 1960 promotional booklet of dyed nylon samples from General Dyestuff Corporation shows a range of vibrant popping colors. 

DuPont launched Lycra in 1959. The result of over 20 years of research and 10 million dollars in investment, this fiber ingredient could be added to existing synthetics like nylon to create greater elasticity. DuPont originally created this R&D project to develop the ideal synthetic elastomer stretch fiber, also known as Spandex, for foundationwear.

By the time Lycra was ready for production, the foundationwear market had changed significantly. In the 1960s, less consumers were purchasing tight fitting shaping garments like girdles and corsets.  In the 1970s, Lycra became the fiber of choice for fitness culture, shaping sportswear such as aerobics leggings and leotards.

This 1970s advertisement for Sugar & Spice Pantyhose celebrates the message of Black is Beautiful. The Chicago-based company’s hosiery was specifically developed for Black women. 

Nylon continues to shape our bodies and lives today. For example, trans-owned company gc2b specializes in chest binders made of nylon and spandex that come in a range of skin tones.

To learn more about these designs and other innovations using elastomers, check out our exhibition SecondSkin: The Science of Stretch.

Later in his life, Joseph Labovsky, a Jewish émigré and Wallace Carothers’s former assistant, created a nylon museum at his home.

He eventually donated his nylon collection to the Science History Institute. You can make an appointment to see his materials in person or view a selection of digitized items online.

Labovsky collected these historic materials because he wanted the story of nylon and the many people involved in its creation, research, development, production, and application to be remembered.

We hope you enjoyed the exhibition!