Beyond the road: Chibougamau

Patched story of a trip to the North

Exhibition poster (2022)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

A patched story

Beyond the road  is the collage of a testimony scattered between Chicoutimi and Chibougamau. A patched-up story.

In a box at the Saguenay Historical Society, there was a collage album, found by chance. Paul Tremblay had gathered photos, notes, newspaper clippings to tell the story of his trip to the land of copper.

The 30-year-old journalist immortalizes the Chibougamau of 1939 which he visited, when nearly a thousand people gravitated to the mining camp. Before the war emptied it of its inhabitants. Before a permanent road ended the isolation of the region.

In a box at the James Bay Historical Society, proofs of this same trip were found. Better yet: there is an interview with Paul Tremblay, almost 80 years old, remembering his stay in Chibougamau.

Chibougamau road (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Paul Tremblay, the young

"Narrative of a 300-mile journey in
the northwest of the province.
"

A week in Chibougamau

"Leaving Chicoutimi on Sunday evening, with Mr. Antoine Dubuc, manager of the Saguenay-Québec telephone company, we arrived in St-Félicien at 11:30 a.m. The snow-mobile of Mr. Armand Levesque, road works director, is waiting for us at the station."

Paul Tremblay and Antoine DubucSociété d'histoire de la Baie-James

In the middle of construction

"On Monday morning, the sun is radiant; nature is adorned as if to take us on a superb journey. As soon as we get up, we will inspect the place. We are in the middle of a construction site."

Camp no1 on Chibougamau's road (1938)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

"There is the building for the engineers and ministry staff, the store, the office of the Chibougamau Development Co. Ltd., the garage, the forge, the sheds, the kitchen and the dormitories for approximately 150 men."

Camp on the road of ChibougamauSociété d'histoire de la Baie-James

"[...] approximately 800 men are currently working on the Chibougamau road, but there will soon be 1200 to 1500."

On the road of Chibougamau. Snowmobile is stuck on snow.Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Evening with the [Crees]

"[T]he men went hunting while the women worked. They make moose mittens, snowshoes and other objects with unparalleled skill. Around us, hanging on the wall, snowshoes, an axe, a saw, a rifle, a few utensils. Around us, hanging on the wall, snowshoes, an axe, a saw, a rifle, some kitchen utensils, some food in a corner and 5 to 6 inches of fir branches on the ground."

Sophy Blacksmith (widow) and her children (1938)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Bridge on Chibougamau's road (1938)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Ashuapmushuan river bridge (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Travel with dogs

"As all the bridges are not yet finished to get to Obalski and the tractor has not yet “broken” the winter road further than Dorés Lake, we are making this journey with dogs."

Sleigh dogs on Dore Lake (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

"We cross Lake Gabriel, Lake Caché and the bay of the same name. And we also arrive in Obalski for lunch, after passing the Chibougamau Properties camps on Caché Lake. At this location, there is only one guard at the moment."

Sleigh dogs on Dore Lake (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

In Obalski 

"In Obalski, there is a pretty, very welcoming little village. Around ten camps including kitchens, depots, dormitories, hangars, etc."

Obalski mine's camp (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

We see the tall chimneys of the Obalski mine. [...] all the machinery we see was transported by tractors and planes in March and April 1937, and that the mine operated throughout the summer of 1937 until the end of October of the same year."

Obalski MineSociété d'histoire de la Baie-James

Obalski Mine (1937)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Obalski Mine. Yvonne Lafont & Romeo Coulombe standing in front. (1937)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Obalski Mine (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Inauguration of the telephone

We return to the small village enchanted by what we had seen. Around 4 o'clock, we leave to go to Mr. Coulombe's house, about 2 miles from Obalski. This Mr. Roméo Coulombe, from Loretteville, is a game warden in Chibougamau and correspondent for La Presse. He is home to the telephone exchange for the Chibougamau–Saint-Félicien line."

"We have barely arrived when Mr. Antoine Dubuc hastens to inaugurate the Chibougamau-Saint-Félicien line and asks to speak to Chicoutimi. This attempt having been most fruitful, he ventured to speak in Quebec. The result was even more surprising, because Mr. Dubuc spoke in Quebec just as well as in Chicoutimi."

[Paul Tremblay?], Yvonne Lafont, Romeo Coulombe (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

The first marriage and the first baby

"[Mr. Coulombe] tells us that he got married in Chibougamau and that it was the first and only marriage in this region. [...] He had Father Caillé, from Parent in Abitibi, come by plane, who blessed the marriage. The fathers of both spouses also came by plane."

"We also learn that Mr. Coulombe's sister, who is married to Mr. Laurent Lafont, prospector from Chibougamau, had the first baby in Chibougamau. Already 4 months old, he is doing well and seems to want to make a good prospector."

Yvonne Lafont and Romeo Coulombe in front of their cabin, also the public phone of Chibougamau. (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

High cost of living

"Because of air transport, which is very expensive, everything is very expensive in this region. It costs $1.75 to $2 per day to feed a man, $3.50 to $4 per day for a horse and $10 per month to feed a dog."

"As dogs provide the best means of transportation in Chibougamau, all the prospectors and locals have two, three and even four, which is very expensive. Sugar sells for $13 a bag and potatoes for $8, and everything else is to match."

Yvonne Lafont at Obalski's camp (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Consolidated Chibougamau Goldfield       

"The mine is located on the edge of Dorés Lake, in Cedar Bay. The beginnings of this mine, one of the largest in this entire mining region, date back to 1928 or 1929, when Glad McKenzie dug a 19-foot shaft."

Chibougamau Consolidated Goldfiel Mine (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

"The latter, which employed approximately 75 men at the time of operations, began operating the mine in 1933 and ceased operations in 1937. As soon as the road is completed, this mine will resume operations."

[?] , Jos Sabourin, Antoine Dubuc and Romeo Coulombe. (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

A journey of 300 miles

"Our journey is over. We return to Saint-Félicien after having covered a distance of more than 300 miles by snow-mobile, on excellent paths, and without any difficulty, while in no hurry."

"It is obvious, from everything we have seen, that this region is destined to become the great mining center of the province of Quebec."

Chibougamau road (1939)Société d'histoire de la Baie-James

Paul Tremblay, the old man

Memory of a journey from another time

Credits: Story

Adaptation of the travel story of Mr. Paul Tremblay, journalist.
Research and online posting: Marie-Claude Duchesne

Archives
Story of Paul Tremblay: Saguenay Historical Society |  P002,S01,D1151
Photographs: James Bay Historical Society | Collection P5 SHBJ
Audio testimonies: James Bay Historical Society | Collection P5 SHBJ

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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