A Stitch in Time
Select embroidered treasures from the collection of Salar Jung Museum, Hyderabad, India (1368 - 1950 A.D)
What is embroidery?
Embroidery is the sophisticated art of decorating fabric or other media by stitching thread or yarn with a needle. As one of the most enduring forms of textile art, its origins span thousands of years and across numerous global cultures.
Embellishment with embroidery
Embroidery elevates garments, accessories, and quilts by using pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. These diverse materials add texture and visual depth, enhancing the artistic appeal of the textile.
A global art form
Embroidery is a global art form with evidence dating back to antiquity. Some of the oldest examples have been found in Egypt, showcasing the advanced skills of ancient artisans.
A versatile craft
Embroidery's status has shifted throughout history, sometimes a rare skill, other times a common practice. This adaptability has led to both practical items and luxurious status symbols being adorned with embroidery.
European traditions
Opus Anglicanum was developed in medieval England by professional workshops and guilds, its application included embroidered religious book-bindings by 16th century. The merchant class in England and its colonies transitioned embroidery into secular environments by 18th century.
Medieval Islamic traditions
In the medieval Islamic world, embroidery was highly esteemed and used in almost every aspect of life, from military attire to calligraphy and even horse decorations. Gold and silver threads were commonly used in Cairo and Istanbul.
Mughal embroidery
Under Emperor Akbar in the 16th-century Mughal Empire, cities like Lahore and Agra in India flourished with imperial workshops. Abu al-Fazl noted the superior quality of intricate patterns like Zardozi, Chikan, and Gota, surpassing even imported textiles.
The Salar Jung Museum collection
The museum has in its repertoire a variety of embroidered treasures. There are curtains, tapestries, Chamba rumals, ceiling fans and many others from different parts of the globe. The pieces are both utilitarian and beautiful.
Let us see a few!
Dancing peacock and other birds (1800/1899)Salar Jung Museum
A dancing peacock
This 19th-century Japanese needlework showcases a dancing peacock surrounded by birds. The framed embroidery, sourced from Japan, highlights the artistry and detail of the era.
Screen (1801/1899)Salar Jung Museum
Japanese screen
This 19th century silk rectangular screen is a testament to the exquisite embroidery techniques of Japanese craftsmen. This four-folded screen depicts a large crested pheasant and two dogs surrounded by trees in the woods.
Waterfall at Nikko (1801/1899)Salar Jung Museum
Waterfall at Nikko
Japanese embroideries are celebrated for their craftsmanship, especially their delicate silk needlework. This 19th century piece depicts a 'Waterfall at Nikko', showcasing subtle hues and emulating a traditional painting.
Silk panelSalar Jung Museum
Lao-Tzu and the Eight Immortals
This Chinese silk panel depicts Lao-Tzu, founder of Taoism, accompanied by the Eight Immortals, showcasing intricate embroidery techniques, from the Late Qing/Ching dynasty
(1644 - 1911 A.D).
Needle work picture of horses (1800/1950)Salar Jung Museum
Horses at the cistern
This 19th/20th-century European needlework depicts three horses and a dog drinking from a cistern.
Embroidered textile (1800/1899)Salar Jung Museum
Japanese river scene
This 19th-century Japanese embroidery captures a serene river scene with two loaded boats, encased in a wooden frame with glass.
Embroidered sequin work of Qutub Minar (1800/1899)Salar Jung Museum
Qutub Minar in sequin embroidery
This 19th-century Indian sequin embroidery on red velvet depicts the Qutub Minar. It is presented in a rectangular wooden frame, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship of the era.
An old violinist (1800/1899)Salar Jung Museum
The violinist
This 19th-century French needlework portrays an elderly violinist, capturing a moment in time with meticulous detail.
Beetle wing fan (1700/1799)Salar Jung Museum
Beetle-wing fan
This 18th-century Indian fan features delicate embroidery with beetle-wings and wire work. The circular design includes a wooden handle and cotton frill.
Embroidered ceiling fan (1368/1644)Salar Jung Museum
Chinese ceiling fan
This Ming dynasty (1368 to 1644 A.D) ceiling fan is adorned with glass, brass, and embroidered Ho-Ho birds and kylins. The lower panel features five dogs, while the upper part showcases four birds.
Embroidery in a wooden frame (1700/1799)Salar Jung Museum
Chinese net embroidery
This 18th-century Chinese embroidery features a tree with birds perched on its branches, all delicately stitched onto a net within a wooden frame.
Sequin work embroidery (1800/1899)Salar Jung Museum
Zari and sequin embroidery
This 19th-century sequin embroidery on grey cloth originates from Aurangabad, Maharashtra, showcasing the regional style and craftsmanship.
Embroidered cloth panels representing figures of dancers, from Burma (now Myanmar), dated to the 19th century.
Chamba rumal (1800/1899)Salar Jung Museum
Chamba rumal
This 19th-century 'Chamba rumal' from Himachal Pradesh in North India depicts a hunting scene, showcasing the artistry of the period.
Curtain (1700/1799)Salar Jung Museum
Biblical embroidery
This embroidered curtain from 18th century France depicts scenes from the Bible, including Moses and the Pharaoh, Solomon with angels and demons, and Mother Mary with the child Christ, alongside Zakarias and angels.
Table cloth (1800/1899)Salar Jung Museum
Floral table cloth
This 19th-century square tablecloth features embroidery in various colours, representing both Persian inscriptions and floral motifs.
Book cover (1700/1799)Salar Jung Museum
Embroidered book-cover
This 18th-century embroidered book cover from Gujarat, India features a goddess at the top, flanked by auspicious Hindu symbols, all encased in a framed display.
Text and Curation: Soma Ghosh
Photography: M. Krishnamurthy and Bahadur Ali
Research Assistance: Dinesh Singh and E. Rajesh
Special thanks to : Ms. Priyanka Mary Francis, IAS, Director, Salar Jung Museum, Hyderabad, India and Dr. B Naik, Curator, Salar Jung Museum, Hyderabad, India.
References –
1. https://www.britannica.com/art/embroidery (accessioned 02.04.2026)
2. https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/indian-embroidery(accessioned 02.04.2026)
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