Model for the Knossos scarf (1910) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
The first creation in the clothing sector, and one that made famous the name of Mariano Fortuny as textile and clothing designer, was a printed silk taffeta scarf: the Knossos.
This shawl – reminiscent in form of the Greek himation or Indian sari – was rectangular and of considerable size: 450 cm long by 110 cm wide.
Model for the Knossos scarf (1910) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
The Technique
High levels of craftsmanship, experimentation, and innovation is what made Fortuny's first creation an immediate success.
Henriette in the textile workshop (1907) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
Print sample (1905) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
The Fortuny Museum keeps some print samples on paper showing the patterns used by Fortuny for his first scarves: papyrus flowers, heart-shaped palms, stylized flowers and argonauts.
Motifs
The Knossos boasted early-Corinthian, Cretan, Minoan and Greek decorative motifs, derived from vase painting.
Matrix for printing textiles (1910) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
Paris. Private event (1906) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
The first Knossos scarf prototypes could be seen on occasion of the ballet for the opening of Countess of Béarn’s private theater, in Paris, on the 29th of March 1906.
Ruth St. Denis (1907) by AnonymousPalazzo Fortuny
After some months of intense experimentation on textiles, colours and the most peculiar motifs, Mariano and Henriette finally realised 15 different models of the Knossos. The presentation took place in Berlin, on the 24th November 1907, featuring Ruth St. Denis showing the audience how to wear the refined scarves.
Matrix for printing textiles Matrix for printing textiles (1910) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
Names apparently extracted from a magic formula book came to identify each Knossos scarf model: “Alblan”, “Aldou”,“Algan”, “Alro”, “Gandou” and “Tilleul”.
Photographic sequence by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
In its versatility the Knossos could be worn in several ways, like a headdress or a gown, or softly wrapped around the body.
Henriette dressed as a Pompeian (1935) by Mariano Fortuny y MadrazoPalazzo Fortuny
Thus attired, Henriette was immortalised by Fortuny in a large painting entitled Portrait in Pompeian Costume .
Display of Knossos scarves (1910) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
Knossos scarf, detail (1910) by Mariano FortunyPalazzo Fortuny
Museo Fortuny Venezia Palazzo Orfei
