Magic of Bengal Handlooms

Handloom weaving is a simple, scientific technique of weaving fabric by hand on a manually-operated loom. A loom is an equipment made out of wooden frame with specific parts that facilitate the weaving process.

Essentially weaving is interlacing of two sets of yarns, called the warp and the weft, placed perpendicular to one another on the loom. The earliest record of sari weaving in Bengal can be traced back to 15th century in Shantipur of Nadia district.

Handloom weaving, a traditional livelihood of men and women for centuries, is a process that relies on the body, rhythm, and skill of the weavers depicting their lives' narratives. 

After drumming the warp yarns are made ready for fixing on the loom. The warps are stretched out on two beams and natural adhesives are applied to add strength to the yarn to withstand the rigours of weaving. 

To create colourful handlooms, either the yarns are dyed before fixing on the loom or the fabric is dyed after weaving. This is based on the varied weaving traditions in different parts of the country.

Dyeing is done in and around handloom clusters by specialised communities of dyers who have the technical knowledge of dyes, shades, chemicals and natural ingredients. It is a sub-industry of textiles.

The warp is a set of threads attached to the loom lengthwise before weaving begins. Warping is the process of creating the base yarn that runs along the length of fabric through which the “weft” yarns are filled in to make the fabric. 

Hank yarns for weft are wound on a prin or bobbin and then inserted into a shuttle. The weft yarns are pulled and inserted perpendicularly to the warp yarns across the width of the fabric to create designs, motifs, and colours.

The eye of the shuttle is the prin / bobbin carrying the weft yarns.

The level of artistry found in handloom fabrics are unparalleled in terms of their intricacies and luxurious features. Baluchari, the most popular amongst Bengal handlooms has been prominent since the Mughal era. 

Baluchari enjoys Geographical Indication tag making it special!

It derives the name 'Baluchari' from its traditional weaving centre - Baluchar in Murshidabad district. Today the weavers are settled mostly in Bankura district and have evolved their designs inspired from  Bishnupur terracotta temple work. 

Baluchari weave has been synonymous with 'aristocracy' for ages for its gorgeous and elaborate Brocade work. It is typically woven in silk depicting mythological stories, animal and bird motifs, floral and paisley decorations...

...hunters on horses, elephants, and scenes from the royal courts.

One Baluchari sari with its intricate motifs can have thousands of punched cards for weaving the design. The Jacquard loom which is a later invention (replacing jala tradition from the mid 18th century) makes the process of weaving faster and a sari can be completed in a week.

The other gorgeous handloom tradition is of Tangail which originated in a place called Tangail in Bangladesh. The heritage is over thousand years old. Many weavers had migrated to West Bengal during partition. Its major centre in Bengal is in Kalna in Purba Bardhaman. 

In addition to the gorgeous borders, Tangails have extra-weft butis, small repeated motifs in the body, interlaced on the ground of the sari. Extremely fine yarns used to weave Tangail makes the ground almost transparent and the fabric soft, delicate and comfortable. 

In earlier times Tangail was called Begum Bahar interlaced with a silk warp and cotton weft. Presently, with design interventions the weavers have diversified.

Other than the more luxurious weaves, indigenous communities create simple handlooms for daily wear for the common folk. These cotton fabrics are soft and extremely well suited for tropical weather. Across Bengal, communities weave these cotton handlooms, the most famous centre being Shantipur.

Shantipur tant is the oldest variety of Bengal cotton textile. The weavers deftly weave the cotton with use of two shuttles. Distinguished by its lightness, transparency, and fine textures, its aesthetics of motifs and colours are simple and elegant.

Nearby Shantipur is another famous handloom centre Phulia. Some weavers from Tangail had settled here and combined Shantipur tant with their tradition to create their unique style. These tants are soft and fine textured, come in vibrant colours and intricately woven motifs. 

In addition to saris, there are clusters who weave cotton fabric for other daily household products. Kenjakura in Bankura, a traditional weaving centre, is best known for making gamchha or towels. 

Seen here is a typical honeycombed pattern unique to this cluster.

There are more than 330 families associated with weaving at Kenjakura and 45% of the weavers are women. 

Their weaves stand out for their traditional patterns of cheques, stripes, flowers, honeycomb, etc. 

Seen here is a chequered weave on loom.

Kenjakura patterns have been readily picked up by the fashion industry in recent times. They are being innovated into apparel and home furnishing with an exclusive design vocabulary. Here one can see the women weavers flaunting their weaves.

Some of the most sought after Kenjakura products include dupattas and stoles...

...saris...

...cushion covers.