A Guided Tour of the Croix-Rousse District in Lyon

PLACE DE LA CROIX-ROUSSE

After having taken the subway from the Town Hall station 'Place de la Comedie’, you reach Place de la Croix Rousse, a large square in two parts one of which is adjacent to the eponymous boulevard. Its name comes from a cross built out of a yellow-purple stone from Couzon that was taken away in 1881. A statue of Jacquard, a testimony to the textile history, stands in the middle of the square.

The boulevard was called Rue de la Citadelle and Boulevard of the Emperor before 1871. Until 1852 the Boulevard formed the city limits and is now the northern boundary of the Unesco sector. Head to the town hall of the 4th district in the west.

BOULEVARD DE LA CROIX-ROUSSE

Admire the beautiful buildings built from 1850 on the broad boulevard. On every morning except Monday, and ever since the “Ancien Régime”, the boulevard is home to one of Lyon’s most iconic food markets (along with the Quai Saint-Antoine). The big market is on Tuesdays. Stop at No. 133 at the town hall.

PLACE BELLEVUE

Below the Gros Caillou and beside the gardens, Bellevue Square, which dates from the Second Empire, offers a magnificent view over the east of Lyon and the banks of the Rhône. It is bordered to the south by nineteenth-century buildings, to the west by a landscaped garden - where stands the statue of the poet Sully Prudhomme (who received the Nobel Prize for Literature and lived in the Croix-Rousse) - and to the north by the Fort Saint-Laurent.

This military building was part of the fortifications built in Lyon in 1830 and destroyed in 1852. The rest of Fort Saint-Laurent is now occupied by the Regional Directorate of the Health Services of Lyon. Now go back to the Gros Caillou and take a left up the Montée Saint-Sébastien.

MONTÉE SAINT-SÉBASTIEN

Descend towards the south of Montée Saint Sébastien, near to the Gros Caillou. Its name comes from a chapel that was installed at the top of the hill. It is one of the Pente’s three most ancient mounts. Continue to the Church of St. Bernard.

RUE GÉNÉRAL SÈVE

Take Rue Général Sève, which takes its name from Joseph Anthelme Sève, born in Lyon in 1788. He became commander-in-chief of Napoleon’s Egyptian army and died in Cairo under the name of Suleiman Pasha. Continue along Rue Jean-Baptiste Say, an economist and theoretician of free-trade born in Lyon in 1767. Admire the building facades including that of No. 30.

IMPASSE, 11 RUE DES PIERRES PLANTÉES

On your right is a picturesque impasse leading to homes and gardens. The name Pierres Plantees comes from stones that were installed to block vehicles in the eighteenth century. Turn left on the esplanade at the Montée de la Grande Côte.

IMPASSE DU BON PASTEUR

Nineteenth century impasse with garden and path. Admire the view of Lyon and the Peninsula.

RUE DIDEROT

After visiting the gardens of the Grande Côte, cross Rue Pouteau, named after a former surgeon of the Hotel-Dieu, to continue on Rue Diderot, named after the philosopher Denis Diderot, and look at the typical “croixroussien” nineteenth-century facades just before the Montée Saint-Sébastien.

PLACE COLBERT

Nineteenth-century square named after Jean Baptiste Colbert, finance minister of Louis XIV and founder of the Academy of Sciences and the Paris Observatory. It offers a beautiful view over eastern Lyon and the Alps. Enter No. 9, south of the square, to the famous Cour des Voraces.

RUE DES TABLES CLAUDIENNES

Its name comes from a bronze tablet of the Roman Emperor Claudius. At the east is the amphitheatre of the Three Gauls and the former School of Fine Arts of Lyon. Note the courtyard of No. 59 and the door of No. 30. Continue up to Place Chardonnet.

PLACE CHARDONNET

Its name comes from Louis Marie Hilaire Bernigaud, count of Chardonnet de Grange, inventor of artificial silk, a former student of the Ecole Polytechnique, engineer of bridges and roads, an officer of the Legion of Honour. Go back on your tracks and enter No. 55 Rue des Tables Claudiennes.

RUE IMBERT COLOMÈS

This street is dedicated to Jacques Imbert Colomès (1729-1808), former mayor. Admire the door, the impost and the access to the indoor terrace of No. 16 as well as the inner courtyard and the staircase leading to buildings Nos. 17-19. Continue until Rue Capponi on your left.

RUE DES TABLES CLAUDIENNES

Take a right towards the west of Rue des Tables Claudiennes and the Amphitheatre of the Three Gauls.

MONTÉE DE LA GRANDE CÔTE

Go down on the right towards the south. Stop at Nos. 63 and 67: seventeenth-century buildings with beautiful facades and spiral staircases. Continue until Rue Burdeau.

RUE BURDEAU

Turn left onto Rue Burdeau. Before 1895 this street was called Commerce Street. It is now dedicated to Augustus Burdeau, born in Lyon in 1851 and died in 1894: Minister of Education and Finance and finally President of the National Assembly in 1894. Admire the facades especially at No. 11 and its door. Enter the alleyway at No. 30 bis Rue Burdeau to join the Passage Thiaffait.

PASSAGE THIAFFAIT, 19 RUE RENÉ LEYNAUD

The Passage Thiaffait was built in 1827 by François-Félix Thiaffait who built both the house and the passage. He was a member of the Board of Charities and president of the Elementary Education Company. He died in 1861. Some premises are now used as studios and workshops, mainly for young fashion designers making it the 'village des creators’. Come out at No. 19 Rue René Leynaud and admire the courtyard and its double staircase.

RUE RENÉ LEYNAUD

This ancient pathway of the Capuchin district (1520) has also been called Besson Street and Old Mint Street. Its present name comes from René Leynaud who was born in Lyon in 1910, poet and journalist at the newspaper Le Progress. His apartment was a Resistance centre and accommodated Albert Camus in 1943. Note No. 14 which links to 13 Rue des Capuchins. Continue on the road to the east.

RUE RENÉ LEYNAUD

Continuing on Rue René Leynaud, you will see No. 33 (door and pilaster), No. 39 (house where Tony Garnier and Pierre Bourdeix taught architecture between 1908 and 1946) and No. 41 (internal staircase). Now continue towards the Montée Saint-Sébastien and turn right to reach Place Croix Paquet.

PLACE CROIX-PAQUET

This square, that already existed in the seventeenth century, takes its name from the merchant Jean Paquet who erected a cross in 1628 to replace another, possibly the now disappeared Griffon cross. The subway that goes to the Croix Rousse, in replacement of the funicular tramway, has a stop at this square.

Cross the square towards Rue Thou on the east. Note No. 11, the Ricard House, and the building at No. 5 for its entrance, its courtyard and the passage towards 3bis Petite Rue des Feuillants. Take this passage at No. 5 to go to Petite Rue des Feuillants.

PETITE RUE DES FEUILLANTS

Takes its name from the Feuillant order founded by Jean de la Barrière in the sixteenth century. The Feuillant monks had their monastery on the west of this street from 1619 to the Revolution. Stop at No. 5 (door and monumental seventeenth century staircase from the former Feuillant monastery, link to 4 rue de Thou) and No. 6 (which links to 19 Place Tolozan). Come back on your tracks to Place Tolozan in the South.

PLACE TOLOZAN

Notice No. 19 (eighteenth-century house, facade, stairs, link with No. 6 Petite Rue des Feuillants) and No. 20 (facade decor). Turn right and walk along Place Pradel until Rue du Griffon.

PLACE LOUIS PRADEL

This site is a recent creation within the urban fabric of the peninsula; it is an expansion of the Rue Puits-Gaillot done at the time of the construction of the subway in 1980. This enabled to build the underground Opera car park. The square hosts César’s famous sculpture, the Skater, a fountain and several sculptures by Jean-Robert Ipoustégy. Now climb right up to Rue du Griffon.

RUE DU GRIFFON

Take Rue du Griffon, then the Place du Griffon. The street was opened in 1353 and takes its name from the mythological animal with the body of a lion and the head and wings of an eagle. A Griffon cross existed in the fifteenth century at the top of the street. Place du Griffin takes its name from the eponymous street. Stop at No.5 on the square: the courtyard with balcony landings links to 3 Rue Romarin. Go past Rue de Lorette and Rue Romarin and turn left at Rue des Capuchins.

RUE DES CAPUCINS

The street has also been called Grande rue neuve des Capucins. It takes its name from the Capuchin order of monks founded in Pisa in 1525, which occupied the site from 1622 until the end of the eighteenth century. For the record, they were the firefighters of the city of Lyon. Stop at No. 22 which leads to 5 Rue Coustou. There are other alleyways at Nos. 3, 6, 7, 15 and 19.

PLACE DU FOREZ

This circular place which dates back to 1810 stands on the centre of the Capuchins’ seventhcentury garden. It takes its name from the Counts of Forez.

RUE SAINT-POLYCARPE

This street takes its name from Saint Polycarp, a disciple of John the Apostle. Stop at No.7 (Condition des soies) at Nos. 9 and 14 (courtyard and stairs) and at No. 16 (yard) and admire the nineteenth-century facades.

RUE ROMARIN

The name of this street comes from an inn sign. It has also been called Rue Porte du Griffon then Montée de la Glacière. It grew between the sixteenth and nineteenth centuries. Follow Rue Romarin and Rue SainteCatherine.

RUE SAINTE-CATHERINE

Its name comes from a hospice dedicated to St. Catherine who welcomed orphans in the area. It dates from about 1680. Stop at No. 17 (post and impost), No. 13 (yard) and No. 12 (door and impost, link to 6 Place des Terreaux).

RUE SAINTE-MARIE DES TERREAUX

Turn right on Rue Sainte-Marie Bellecour. The name of this street comes from the Virgin Mary. It was opened in 1600 and expanded in the nineteenth century. Linger at No. 5 (door and impost), No. 4 (door, impost and staircase), No. 3 (door, impost and stairs) and No. 1 (courtyard, link to 6 Rue des Capucins).

RUE TERME

The origin of this street goes back to the Renaissance. Its name comes from Jean-François Terme, mayor of Lyon from 1840 to 1847. Look especially at Nos. 21 (front door, courtyard and well) and 23-25 (facades).

RUE HIPPOLYTE FLANDRIN

You are now crossing a fourteenth-century street named Hippolyte Flandrin, after the Lyon painter. Admire the tall buildings and their beautiful old doors. Now proceed up to Place Sathonay and turn right.

PLACE SATHONAY

Named after Nicolas Marie Jean Claude Fay de Sathonay, Mayor of Lyon from 1805 to 1812, this pleasant nineteenth-century square with beautiful chestnut has at its centre a statue of Sergeant Blandan.

RUE SERGENT BLANDAN

A very old road dedicated Jean Pierre Hippolyte Blandan, hero of the conquest of Algeria in 1842. You are on the east side: stop at No. 23 for the façade, the door and the impost. Now turn left into Rue Terme and go up north.

RUE TERME

Continue along Rue Terme and turn left at the Montée de l’Amphitheatre. Note the building at No. 2 for its staircase and caretaker’s lodge, and then, after the bend in the hill, observe the Montée de la Ficelle which is a tunnel climbing to the top of the slopes on the route of the old funicular.

MONTÉE DE L'AMPHITHÉÂTRE

Was called Montée Sathonay until 1866. Its current name comes from the nearby Roman amphitheatre. During works in 1853, the remains of terraces and a statue-lined driveway were found on the site of Rue Terme. Go down the stairs and stop at No. 4 Place Sathonay that links to No. 4 Place Fernand Rey. Then turn right into Rue de Fargues.

RUE DE FARGUES

Short early nineteenth-century street named after Jean-Joseph de Mellet, Earl of Fargues, colonel of the National Guard, Mayor of Lyon from 1814 to 1818 and deputy of the Rhone department. You are now at Place Fernand Rey, turn left into the eponymous street.

RUE FERNAND REY

Previously part of Rue des Carmelites, this street is named after Fernand Rey, deputy mayor in 1931. You can stop at No. 12: seventeenth-century facade and courtyard. Turn left to regain Rue Sergent Blandan.

RUE SERGENT BLANDAN

You are on the western section of Rue Sergent Blandan: stop at No. 22 (seventeenth-century door and facade), at No. 19 (yard and well) and No. 28 (façade and link to 19 Place Rambaud).

PASSAGE DE L'ABBAYE DE LA DÉSERTE

Take the passage at No. 32 Rue Sergent Blandan to No. 21 Place Rambaud, going towards the Saône, and you will arrive at the Halle de la Martinière.

HALLE DE LA MARTINIÈRE, PLACE GABRIEL RAMBAUD

Classified as a historical monument. The remaining north wing of this old municipal hall was built by the architect René Dardel in 1838. Pick up the visit towards the west.

PLACE GABRIEL RAMBAUD

Old Place de la Martinière, named today after Gabriel Emile Maximilien Rambaud, Deputy Mayor from 1919 to 1929. Continue along Rue de la Martinière towards the Saône: stop at No. 7 on your right (link to 10 Rue Sergent Blandan) and Nos. 4-6 for their facades.

QUAI SAINT-VINCENT

Before taking the Quai Saint-Vincent to the south, look at the St. Vincent gateway that goes to Old Lyon, and the St. Paul church tower behind.

RUE D'ALGÉRIE

After admiring the beautiful building at No. 1 Quai de la Pêcherie, enter Rue d’Algérie by the left of the building. This street dates from 1850 and took its name at the time of the colonial conquest. Pay attention to the building facades and in particular that of the painter Fleury Richard at No. 11. Go right after Rue Lanterne.

RUE LANTERNE

This ancient street dating from the Middle-Ages led to the door of the lantern on the Terreaux ramparts. Note the facades of this narrow street are from different eras. Now turn left on to Rue Constantine.

RUE CONSTANTINE

This street was named after a city in Algeria at the time of the colonial conquest in 1844. Note the figurines of famous men on the building façade on the angle of Rue Constantine - Rue Paul Chenavard. Pay attention to the beautiful facades of the nineteenth-century buildings. Continue until the Place des Terreaux.

PLACE DES TERREAUX

You are now at Place des Terreaux which was landscaped in the early seventeenth century. Its name comes from the time when it was surrounded by ditches, or 'soils' which refer to mud, from the Latin terralia. The square was a meeting place for strikes and demonstrations and a public square with administrative headquarters: the Hotel de Ville. During the eighteenth century, the square became a fashionable bourgeois meeting place interspersed with cafes and shops.

After the Revolution it became the Place of Freedom. From 1838, the Boucherie des Terreaux neighbourhood was redesigned and architects such as Desjardins, Dupasquier and René Dardel constructed residential buildings.

JARDINS DU PALAIS SAINT-PIERRE

The cloister and its gardens were redesigned in 1884 to give them their present appearance, by the architects René Dardel and Abraham Hirsch. This islet of greenery, protected from urban noise by the secular walls, covers about 1,200 m2. The alleys of the garden are shaded by the large oak, birch trees and odorous lime trees.

PLACE DE LA COMÉDIE

Terminus of the visit. This square takes its name from the opera before you which was originally built by Jacques-Germain Soufflot in 1756 and renovated by A.-M. Chenavard between 1825 and 1831. An extension was completed in 1990 by the architect Jean Nouvel. Of neoclassical architecture, the facade has a ground floor arcade, a main floor and a penthouse strip with sphinx heads which are connected by garlands of foliage and antique theatre masks.

The whole is surmounted by eight statues of muses. They are traditionally nine, but the need for a symmetric span meant the exclusion of Urania, the muse of astronomy. Thank you for your visit.