Bhutan - Punakha to Jakar
We begin this leg of the Bhutan Expedition in the country’s former capital Punakha and continue westward through the Gangtey Valley and Trongsa to Jakar in the religious heartland of the nation.
This story was created for the Google Expeditions project by ePublishing Partners and AirPano, now available on Google Arts & Culture
Along the way, we’ll visit some outstanding dzongs and monasteries and also learn something about the Bhutanese people, the culture and the economy.
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Punakha, Bhutan
Punakha was Bhutan’s capital until 1955. The Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu Rivers, the two main rivers of the area, converge here, which is both a benefit and a threat while the rivers help nourish the land and make the valley suitable for growing rice, they also often produce damaging flash flooding.
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Punakha Dzong, one of Bhutan’s most historically important dzongs, is located at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu Rivers.
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Punakha Dzong
With a name meaning “The Palace of Great Happiness,” Punakha Dzong was built in 1637, and currently serves as the area’s administrative center. As Bhutan’s second oldest and second largest dzong, many important historical and religious events have occurred here.
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Traditional Covered Wooden Cantilevered Bridge
A traditional covered wooden cantilevered bridge leads to the Punakha Dzong. The original bridge at this location was built in the 17th century along with the dzong, but it was washed away by flash flooding in 1957.
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Construction for the new bridge started in 2006 and was finished in 2008.
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Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu
Chhu means “water” or “river” in Dzongkha, Bhutan’s official national language. Bhutan’s two main rivers, the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu, converge below the Punakha Dzong. The rivers are often referred to as Father and Mother.
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Punakha Dzong—Interior Details
As the second oldest dzong in Bhutan, Punakha Dzong has fulfilled many critical roles since its founding in 163. The city of Punakha functioned as the country’s capital until the mid-1950s, and all of Bhutan’s kings have been crowned here.
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While the structure of this and all dzongs is essentially a fortress, the interior is a work of art. Bhutanese culture and religion is reflected in details as small— a prayer wheel— and large— an overhanging balcony.
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Wall Paintings
Dzong walls are typically painted in vividly colored murals depicting animals, floral motifs, and religious figures and deities. Many of the walls of Punakha are covered in elaborate scenes such as this one. Some depict the life of Buddha.
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Prayer Wheels, or Mani
Prayer wheels are common in all dzongs. The prayer wheel sits on a spindle of metal, leather, or wood. Various prayers, symbols, and mantras are imprinted on the wheel. People spin the wheel instead of reciting an actual prayer.
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Wooden Ornamentation
As wood is found in abundance throughout Bhutan, it is used in great quantities to decorate both the exterior and interiors of all dzongs, and Punakha is no exception. Intricately carved and painted columns, doorframes, and stairways are found throughout the dzong.
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Punakha’s Interior
While monks live and study here year-round, the dzong serves other purposes as well. The spiritual leader of Bhutan, the Je Khenpo, has administrative offices here. Punakha Dzong is also the repository of the sacred relics of several important religious figures.
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Gangtey Valley, Wangdue Phodrang District
Close to the center of Bhutan, Gangtey Valley (also called Phobjikha Valley) is a wide and flat U-shaped valley with an elevation of 9,800 feet.
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Approximately 4,500 Drukpa (Bhutan’s ethnic majority) share the area with a wide variety of wildlife, including barking deer, leopards, sambars, and—every winter—a large flock of black-necked cranes, who stop here during their yearly migration.
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As the valley is so flat and fertile, the land is mostly used for farming.
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Farmhouse
Traditional Bhutanese farmhouses are square or rectangular buildings constructed of stones, mud, and wood. They usually face south east. The kitchen is on the lower level, with the chosham, or prayer room, and bedrooms above.
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Agriculture
The Gangtey Valley’s main crop is potatoes, which are exported to India. However, most farmhouses have private gardens where a variety of vegetables are grown. Farm animals, including horses and cattle, graze in the fields and are stabled in the ground level of the farmhouse.
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Gangtey Monastery
Surrounded by the Himalayas and perched on a hillside overlooking the houses and farmlands of the Gangtey Valley, the Gangtey (or Gangteng) Monastery is a prime example of Buddhist architecture. Maintained by approximately 100 monks, this active monastery was founded in 1613.
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The black-necked cranes that winter each year in Gangtey Valley are said to circle the monastery three times upon their arrival, and then circle three times again as they depart at winter’s end.
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The Monastery
Monks of all ages live in the monastery, where they study and practice Nyingmapa Buddhism, the oldest school of Tibetan Buddhism. The structure houses five temples that surround one centralized tower where the tshokhang, or assembly hall, is located.
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The Village of Gangtey
To reach the monastery, one must pass through Gangtey Village, which was founded by Pema Trinley in the early 1600s. Note the surrounding trees and how close each house is to the next: this is to buffer the cold mountain winds.
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Trongsa Dzong, Trongsa
The Trongsa District is located in central Bhutan, in the Black Mountains. The majority of the people in this district are Nepalese or Tibeto-Burman living in isolated groups throughout the mountains.
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The isolation has resulted in significant linguistic and cultural differences between groups. Trongsa Dzong, Bhutan’s largest fortress monastery is found here, perched upon a rocky spur high above the Mangde River.
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This dzong houses about 200 monks, as well as the district’s government headquarters.
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Trongsa Dzong
What began as a temple in 1543 developed into the monastery you see here. This dzong’s location provided the area with a high level of protection and control as the only path connecting eastern and western Bhutan used to pass directly through the structure.
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Mangde River Gorge
Dropping down approximately 7,150 feet from the side of Trongsa Dzong is the Mangde River Gorge. The Magde River flows in a general north-south direction through central Bhutan and is a popular rafting route for those seeking a thrilling adventure.
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Black Mountains
Stretching between the Sankosh and Mangde Rivers, the Black Mountains are remote and thinly populated. Pele Pass, the most important road that transverses these mountains, has an elevation of about 11,000 feet.
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Jakar, Bumthang District
Located in central Bhutan, Bumthang District is made up of 4 main valleys, the Ura, Chumey, Tang and Choekhor. Fully two-thirds of the district falls within national parks and is environmentally protected.
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This is the religious heartland of Bhutan, with some of the oldest Buddhist temples and monasteries, including Jakar Dzong, or “The Castle of the White Bird.”
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Jakar Dzong
Jakar Dzong is the largest dzong in Bhutan. This fortress monastery was built in 1667 on the foundation of an older temple built in the mid-16th century.
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According to myth, the site for the dzong was indicated by a large white bird: Jakar is derived from the word bjakhab, which translates as “white bird.”
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The Town of Jakar
This one-street town is busy, with several restaurants and shops, and even a few Internet cafes. Jakar is famous for chugo, a hard, chewy cheese snack, as well as yethra, which are brightly colored, woven woolen items.
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Choekhor Valley
The fertile land in Choekhor Valley is perfect for growing potatoes, rice, buckwheat, and apples. And the entire valley could be considered a sacred site: it is dotted with numerous temples and shrines, including the ancient temple Jambey Lhakhang.
