Hip Hop Designers
Hip hop designers are often not recognized by the mainstream fashion industry, but they contributed greatly to diversifying fashion.
Dapper Dan of Harlem double breasted bomber jacket, High-Tek leather (faux and lambskin leather), 1987, USA, gift of Dapper Dan of Harlem Dapper Dan of Harlem double breasted bomber jacket, High-Tek leather (faux and lambskin leather), 1987, USA, gift of Dapper Dan of HarlemThe Museum at FIT
Daniel Day, better known as Dapper Dan
Daniel Day, better known as Dapper Dan, is one of the most influential designers of the late twentieth century, although he was known by name only to a select few prior to his 2017 partnership with Gucci.
A Harlem native, he created an innovative design bridge between New York street style and European luxury brands by co-opting designer logos for his hip hop-inflected silhouettes.
Karl Kani
Brooklyn-born Karl Kani was one of the first streetwear designers and is known as “the godfather of hip hop fashion.” He established his brand in 1989, pioneering the baggy jean look.
His designs were favored by hip hop artists including Biggie Smalls—who named dropped Kani in “One more Chance” (1994)—Nas, Jay-Z, and Tupac Shakur who famously appeared in Karl Kani ads for free because of his support for the brand.
Shakur wore this plaid vest style in the 1990s illustrating Kani’s sophisticated blend of classic fabrics, workwear inspiration, and oversized silhouettes.
Ruff Ryders man’s jersey, polyester, late 1990s - early 2000s, USA, gift of Antonio Gray Ruff Ryders man’s jersey, polyester, late 1990s - early 2000s, USA, gift of Antonio GrayThe Museum at FIT
Ruff Ryders Entertainment Company
Producing an official fashion line is a way for artists to connect with fans and expand the merchandise offered at concerts and festivals. It is also a way for the hip hop community to make their fandom known.
The Ruff Ryders Entertainment record company still produces this branded football jersey as a way for fans to express their love for DMX.
Fenty x Puma sneakers, pink polyester and rubber, spring 2017, Germany, gift of Puma (2017)The Museum at FIT
Rihanna
Rihanna is a multi-hyphenate creator whose music impacts multiple genres, including hip hop. Before she launched her own respected fashion brand, she partnered with Puma to design a collection that fused hip hop’s love of athletic gear with a distinctly feminine style.
High profile collaborations such as this illustrate fashion’s reliance on musical artists and hip hop style for fresh ideas—and media exposure.
Sean John, black bolero, shirt, and trousers ensemble, wool, angora, rabbit fur, cotton blend, silk, vinyl, and silver metal, fall 2008, USA, gift of Sean John Sean John, black bolero, shirt, and trousers ensemble, wool, angora, rabbit fur, cotton blend, silk, vinyl, and silver metal, fall 2008, USA, gift of Sean John (2008)The Museum at FIT
Sean John
Hip hop music mogul Sean Combs and fashion executive Jeff Tweedy established Sean John as an aspirational sportswear line in 1998. The brand was uniquely tapped into the mainstream fashion industry with Vogue editors André Leon Talley and Anna Wintour as supporters.
Sean John, black bolero, shirt, and trousers ensemble, wool, angora, rabbit fur, cotton blend, silk, vinyl, and silver metal, fall 2008, USA, gift of Sean John Sean John, black bolero, shirt, and trousers ensemble, wool, angora, rabbit fur, cotton blend, silk, vinyl, and silver metal, fall 2008, USA, gift of Sean John (2008)The Museum at FIT
In 2004, Combs also became the first Black designer to win a Designer of the Year Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).
He reflected: “Being an African American designer was very heavy on my heart…People tried to put us in a little box. . . . The CFDA award changed the perception."
(L) Virgil Abloh for Off-White, black cotton sweatshirt, fall 2018, Italy, gift of Off-White, 2019.8.1 (R) Virgil Abloh for Off-White, coat, pullover, and jeans, wool, cotton, suede, leather, rubber, polyester, and metal, fall/winter 2015-2016, Italy, gift of Off-White c/o Virgil AblohThe Museum at FIT
Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh was a multi-hyphenate creative who significantly shaped contemporary hip hop style—and fashion in general. He elevated streetwear to the highest levels of the luxury market as one of the few Black designers to helm a luxury house.
He designed several projects for hip hop artists before founding his design brand Off-White in 2013. Abloh was a highly conceptual designer who synthesized ideas into luxury menswear, including this ensemble inspired by mountaineering gear.
Telfar bag, polyurethane and polyester, 2021, USA, museum purchase (2021)The Museum at FIT
Telfar Clemons
Hip hop designers are often not recognized by the mainstream fashion industry, but they contributed greatly to diversifying fashion.
Although inequity continues to exist, young designers of color are finding greater mainstream acceptance and continuing love from the hip hop community.
Telfar Clemons is an example of one such designer whose “Bushwick Birkin” bag has been spotted on rappers from Megan Thee Stallion to A$ASP Ferg and Lil Nas X.
Fresh, Fly, and Fabulous: Fifty Years of Hip Hop Style was on view at The Museum at FIT February - April 2023. It was curated by Elena Romero, assistant professor, Advertising and Marketing Communications, FIT, and Elizabeth Way, associate curator of costume, MFIT.
