Pressing, Perfuming, and Preserving: Caring for Textiles in the Inner Court

The traditional clothing of the Thai court was cared for using a variety of processes. In addition to washing and ironing, fabrics were routinely glazed, pleated, and perfumed—procedures that were performed in the inner court, the domain of the wives and consorts, sisters, and daughters of the king. These royal women occasionally carried out such activities themselves, but more often their servants did the work under their direction.

The perfumed cloths were usually stored in closed wooden boxes to help the fragrance last longer. The wearer’s favorite fresh flowers, such as salapee, Chinese rice flower, ylang-ylang, and different kinds of jasmine, were often added to the box. Scented cheesecloth was also used instead of fresh flowers.

Clean hip wrappers, breast wrappers, and shoulder cloths were scented with fragrant smoke, fresh and dried flowers, or flower-scented water. Benzoin (also known as gum benjamin), agarwood, myristica fragrans (nutmeg), and musk from the Indian small civet were among the many different agents used.

Two people were needed to hand-pleat a shoulder cloth, one on each side holding it taut while folding it. The fabric was then placed in a heavy wood press, which set the pleats. A raang chiip, a tool with bamboo teeth between which the fabric was inserted, was also used to pleat shoulder cloths.

Liquid perfumes were first made by infusing oil with crushed herbs or flowers and later through the distillation of plant material to extract their essential oils.
Women of the Thai court scented their textiles using traditional methods of burning aromatics and creating perfumed waters and oils, employing a wide range of ingredients that were grown domestically or obtained through trade. A selection is on display nearby