Changing Landscapes of the Sault Ste. Marie Canal
Although industrial transformation projects such as the Sault Ste. Marie Canal have changed the landscape, people continue to be drawn to this place.
By Parks Canada
The St. Marys River rapids have been a gathering place for millennia
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The rapids of the St. Marys River define this place
Connecting Lake Superior and Lake Huron, the St. Marys River drops nearly 7 metres during its journey, creating a series of rapids that present both a challenge and an opportunity.
Fishing the Rapids, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Histoic Site (c. 1900) by Detroit Publishing Co.Parks Canada
The Anishinabek have lived here for millennia
The Anishinabek gathered to harvest fish in the rapids, developing skills to access the fish in their turbulent natural environment.
"Indian Encampment, Whitefish Island" (1870) by William ArmstrongParks Canada
Baawaating, a natural meeting place
Called Baawaating (place of the rapids) in Anishinaabemowin, the St. Marys River rapids and its abundant resources attracted Indigenous peoples from around the Great Lakes and beyond.
North West Company Canoe Lock, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (1902) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
The North West Company built a canoe lock
This was to bypass the rapids in 1798. When Europeans arrived, the rapids were seen as a barrier to transportation of goods, so they started modifying the river to benefit their enterprises. This portion of the fur trade lock was photographed in the early 1900s.
Proposed Canal, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Histoic Site (1846) by Hamilton H. KillalyParks Canada
Engineers designed ambitious plans to bypass the rapids
The first proposal for a lock on the Canadian side of the river was in the 1830s; however, plans changed and construction did not begin until 1889.
Land Expropriation
In 1850, the Robinson Huron Treaty set aside Whitefish Island for the use of Batchewana First Nation. Despite this, in 1905, Whitefish Island was expropriated for railway construction. Indigenous people were removed from the island, although no railroad would be built.
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Completing a transportation network
Completed in 1895, the canal bisected St. Mary’s Island and formed the last link in an all-Canadian waterway stretching from the Atlantic Ocean to Lake Superior. Combined with other new industrial development, the canal defined the modern look of the St. Marys River.
Building the Canal, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (1887/1895) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Digging into the sandstone bedrock
The project used the combined efforts of 800 workers, 53 teams of horses, and 10 miles of track to move heavy equipment. In addition, 3 steam-powered traveling hoists, 40 derricks, and numerous drills, stone crushers and pumps were necessary to complete the task.
The Power House, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (1904) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
The first lock to operate using its own hydroelectricity
Water from the St. Marys River was diverted to the Powerhouse to produce the hydroelectricity that operated the lock, a world first in 1895.
Inside the Powerhouse, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (1934) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
The rumble of the turbines was the heartbeat of the lock.
Turbines and generators inside the Powerhouse created the electricity to operate the lock, in addition to powering the other buildings and the electric lights along the canal.
Blacksmith's Shop, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (2021) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Functional buildings, like the Stores Building and connected one-story Blacksmith’s Shop, didn’t get the same decorative limestone elements as the more public buildings.
Nevertheless, the structures all have a tangible connection to the land they are on.
Administration Building, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (2010) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
The administration building
As the lock's operational centre, the Administration Building was one of the most publicly visible buildings at the canal, designed to be both beautiful and functional. Its location near the middle of the lock allowed superintendents to ensure regular operation, even when unforeseen challenges arose.
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The Emergency Swing Dam could restrain the river
The Emergency Swing Dam was intended to hold back the force of the river if ever the lock gates could not be closed. With only nine ever built, this is the world's last remaining swing dam.
Ninethousand O Nine Accident, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (1909) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
And in 1909, the dam was put to the test
Due to miscommunication, the Perry G. Walker crashed into the lower lock gates - breaking them - and sending two other vessels shooting out of the lock and down the river in the suddenly uncontrolled flood of water.
Lock and Emergency Swing Dam after the Nine Thousand O Nine Accident (1909) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Successfully deployed
The Emergency Swing Dam regained control of the water after the Perry G. Walker incident.
Canal barren landscape post construction. by UnkownParks Canada
The lock’s construction had left its mark on the landscape
By 1900 the lock was operational and construction of most necessary buildings was complete,
but the process had taken a significant toll on the landscape, leaving it stripped of vegetation.
V. H. Ketchum approaching the lock, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (1895/1901) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Meanwhile, the canal grew
It became a civic and recreational hub
The first Superintendent, J. Boyd, made the transformation of the site, from construction zone to a place of beauty, one of his top priorities.
As the city of Sault Ste. Marie grew during the early 20th century, people began visiting the canal for recreation.
Superintendent's residence, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (1914) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Superintendents lived on-site
They guided gardening to beautify the island. Continuing under the direction of Canal Superintendent J.W. LeBreton Ross, gardeners worked hard to beautify the grounds. Trees and flowerbeds were planted to mimic an English country garden.
Modern Gardens on North St. Mary's Island, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (2021) by Parks Canada PhotographerParks Canada
Heritage gardens
The landscape of North St. Mary’s Island
The Sault Ste. Marie Horticultural Society helps maintain the flower gardens, as they have done since the early days of the canal.
Wetlands on South St. Mary's Island (2021) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
On South St. Mary’s Island, nature is taking over
While North St. Mary’s Island retains its 20th-century park-like atmosphere, today South St. Mary’s Island has returned to a more natural state, with local plants and wildlife thriving.
The Canal, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (2021) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Today, Parks Canada maintains the lock for recreational use
The Sault Ste. Marie Canal operated as a large shipping lock until a structural failure in 1987 forced its closure. A new lock was constructed inside the historic lock chamber, allowing it to reopen in 1998 as a smaller, modern recreational boat lock.
Boardwalk on South St. Mary's Island, Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site (2021) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Trails encourage exploration
Discover the natural and cultural heritage of the site. Visitors to the Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site can explore the Attikamek Trail. The trail’s name, which is the Anishinaabemowin word for whitefish, gives honour to the heritage of Batchewana First Nation.
St. Marys River Rapids, White Fish Island National Historic Site (2021) by Parks CanadaParks Canada
Whitefish Island
In 1982, Batchewana First Nation filed a land claim seeking the return of Whitefish Island. After ten years of negotiations, the claim was settled and the land was rightfully returned to Batchewana First Nation.
Baawaating continues to be a meeting place
The St. Marys rapids and their surroundings have undergone many transformations through the years. Today, the rapids exist as a meeting place between waters, cultures, and histories. It holds meaning for many who meet here - what does it mean to you?
Discover more
Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site
Batchewana First Nation
Whitefish Island National Historic Site of Canada
Parks Canada - First Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Event (pc.gc.ca)
Geocaching - Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site
Credits
Sault Ste. Marie Canal National Historic Site
Parks Canada, Northern Ontario Field Unit
Thank you to Batchewana First Nation for their contributions to the story.
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