Romans vs Barbarians

It is 182 AD. We are in northern Britain, near Birdoswald Roman Fort, on the Roman-imposed border with the territory we now call Scotland (then known as Caledonia). We are aboard a chariot. A triumphal procession is taking place in honour of a recent Roman victory over fierce local tribes called the Brigantes and the Picts.

“Picti” means “the painted ones” in Latin, because the tribe was known for painting their bodies and tattooing themselves. The Romans called these tribal people “barbarians”. Who were the Romans?

Drawn by horses and flanked by mounted troops and foot soldiers, their way illuminated by women, this procession was a sign of Roman power to terrify locals and remind Roman soldiers of the might and glory of their home Empire.

Spirituality fuelled Roman behaviour. The procession is illuminated by Vestals, priestesses charged with maintaining a sacred fire. Back in Rome, huge buildings like the Pantheon, seen here, were rebuilt by Emperor Hadrian and dedicated to their many pagan gods.

Gladiatorial contests took place during Roman celebrations, a gruesome form of theatre. Gladiators (from the Latin “gladius”, meaning “sword”) would fight to the death, often against animals such as tigers, for the amusement of the crowds.

Romans serving many miles from home had an appetite for seeing killings as entertainment, often seen here at the Colosseum in Rome. In 2010, in York, England, 80 gladiator skeletons were found with tiger bite marks.

This is Galen (AD 130–216), seen here treating a wounded gladiator at Pergamon, Turkey. He was the most famous doctor in the Roman Empire. While the native Celtic Britons had their own healing culture, Rome brought a new one to Britain.

Rome ruled Britain by AD 122 – except for Caledonia (Scotland). Attacks by Caledonians were costly, so Emperor Hadrian ordered construction of a wall across the country. Willowford Bridge had a 914-metre stretch of Hadrian’s Wall, linking it to Birdoswald Fort.

Roman troops were often recruited from across the Empire, not just from Italy. Soldiers were used to hot climates and their form of high culture: gymnasiums, hot springs, sports, gladiatorial games, temples and large cities. Britain was an undeveloped land at that time. It was cold, harsh and radically different to Turkey, Africa and Europe, and so troops found living by Hadrian’s Wall a huge challenge. Nevertheless, they brought their culture with them – playing games and appreciating art.

A long tradition of leaders being closely associated with troops existed in the Roman Army. Here, the senior centurion (commander) of the 1st Aelian Cohort of Dacians shows interest in the off-duty games of his men.

The men are arm wrestling, killing time and having fun on a break from patrolling Hadrian’s Wall. The wall, seen on the map in red, stretched across the entire northern tip of England. This was a cold, wet and challenging environment for the troops.

This Roman soldier is proud to be deployed along the wall of Emperor Hadrian (portrayed here in sculpture). The soldier gambles silver denarius coins on the throw of a dice.

This Roman legionary has served for 20 years. In 5 more, he can retire with a gift of a pension or land from the Empire.

Conflict with Northern tribes such as the Picts was very costly – troops died and equipment had to be replaced. By AD 122, Emperor Hadrian realised that he had to separate Caledonia (Scotland) from the rest of Roman Britain and ordered the construction of a wall. 

Plans soon changed, and 14 forts like this one at Walltown Craggs were constructed along the wall. In the south, where there were also Celtic aggressors, an earthwork ditch was dug to make approaching the wall more difficult.

It was a huge undertaking, taking 6 years to build. The original design was for turf (grass and soil) and stone, with simple guarded gates a mile apart and observation towers in-between.

Seen from the air, Hadrian’s Wall is a truly impressive achievement, built by about 5000 heavily armed infantrymen. It is 80 miles long and stretches from coast to coast.

The wall was originally 4.6 metres high and had elaborate fortifications along its length. Forts such as Poltross Burn Milecastle, seen in this artist’s reconstruction, represented homes from home for the Romans living on the Wall.

Legionaries from Europe often wrote home asking for warm clothing to be sent. It was a culture shock to travel to the northernmost edge of the Empire and stare out at the “bad lands”, waiting for Celtic tribes to attack.

The Romans called Celtic tribes across Europe and Britain barbarians, but is that what they were? Here we see a Caledonian chieftain, his wife and his counsel listening to the pleas of one of the tribe. The man begging for forgiveness has been accused of spying for the Romans and trading with them across the wall. This is an informal court. Clearly, the man is concerned he will not be believed, but the Caledonians had rules and honour.

The Roman historian Tacitus’s book “Agricola” describes the lives of Caledonian tribal chieftains like this man. A great leader of men called Calgacus (c. AD 83) roused his people against Rome with the words, “Robbery, slaughter, plunder – they give the lying name of empire.

In Celtic tribes, women usually had equal status to men. Many women of royal birth, like this one, fought as leaders and warriors alongside men. They often led armies into battle against the Romans.

From around 500 BC to AD 500, Paganism was the dominant religion across Celtic Britain and Europe. The Celts believed in a pantheon of Gods, the most important being Toutatis, Taranis and Lugus.

The Caledonian tribes of northern Britain had a strong culture. They were artisans and cooks; they farmed and traded. When the Romans invaded, they attempted to control a border where they could tax traders and farmers and control the movement of people.

The Romans were often oppressive and cruel, but they could be fair too, depending on the ruling Emperor and the military personnel on the Wall at the time. Some Romans married local tribeswomen. There was a mixing of cultures.

According to Roman authors, the druids were spiritual leaders treated as wise elder statesmen of the village. Often they were healers too, using herbs and well-known therapeutic methods to help the sick.

Women and men shared tasks equally. A Pict woman (painted with blue daub and tattooed on her arms) has chosen to prepare a meal for her guest, the druidic elder. But she is a warrior too.

This Celtic teenager has been born in difficult times. He would have liked to be a peaceful farmer and trader, but instead he must train to be a warrior. He asks the druid for spiritual guidance.

This teenager has painted his face blue. He is now a Pict warrior, proud and fierce, putting his life on the line for his family and the way of life he believes in. He wants the Romans to leave.

When native people are oppressed, their way of life damaged or destroyed, when they are not allowed to follow their chosen belief patterns and when their families are hurt or kept apart by a dividing wall, war can result. Here we are in the middle of battle. The tribal Caledonians have decided to make a stand and fight for their freedom. It may cost them their lives.

She listened to her guest, the druidic leader, and has decided to join her chieftain in battle. She is highly skilled with a spear and in hand-to-hand combat. She kills several Roman troops before she too is killed.

The gambling legionary has been in fierce hand-to-hand combat. The Caledonians have broken through the Romans’ famous lines of shields, scattering their army. The Caledonians are winning, but this Roman soldier is determined to fight on for the Empire.