Iconic Film Costumes And What Went Into Their Making
Of nostalgia and costumes... here’s a trip down the memory lane and a revisit to some of the iconic costumes and what went into their making. But not without an honorary mention of an array of amazing costume designers who have designed and created some seriously incredible works
Sridevi, the lead actress in an iconic outfit from the film 'Chandni'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Chandni (1989) was one of those rare opportunities where fashion could really be infused in the characters in a profound way.
Elegance and simplicity – were the key elements of design for Sridevi’s costumes, who plays the character of a girl next door in the Yash Chopra directed film Chandni (1989). The vibrant prints that dominated the early 80s Bollywood fashion circuit gave way to the understated chiffon sarees and salwar kameez.
Sridevi, the lead actress donning the iconic chiffon sarees in the film 'Chandni'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
The chiffon sarees donned by Sridevi in the film became so popular that they came to be symbolised as ‘Chandni sarees’ in the Indian fashion markets. The light color palette of sarees and salwar kameez marked the character's innocence, and was, of course, a wardrobe appropriate to the late 80s. The costumes designed by Bhanu Athaiya, Leena Daru and Neeta Lulla became a huge fashion rage during that era.
Sridevi, the lead actress in a popular all-white salwar suit from the film 'Chandni'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
The all-white salwar kameez paired with shaded lehriya dupattas, brought in such a fashion revolution, that many local stalls named themselves ‘Chandni’ after the film.
Rishi Kapoor, the lead actor sporting the trendy sweaters in the film 'Chandni'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Rishi Kapoor essayed the character of a young lover opposite Sridevi in Chandni (1989). To create a contrast in styling, he was made to don multicoloured, abstract and patterned sweaters.
His vibrant sweaters and pullovers knitted with quirky patterns became his signature style statement and made the sweaters look more a fashion piece than just a winter essential. The outfits for the film were designed by Bhanu Athaiya, Leena Daru and Neeta Lulla.
Sridevi, the lead actress donning the iconic Rajasthani attire in a still from the film 'Lamhe'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
One film, one actress, two roles spanned across two generations (mother & daughter) - a unique sartorial challenge!
Sridevi’s motherly character in the film Lamhe (1991) had to belong to a world of heritage and tradition. And a certain type of a wardrobe was needed to support that world. Hence, the Rajasthani influence of her character in the film was extended to the intricate designs on colourful and traditional Rajasthani styled lehengas along with traditional Rajasthani jewellery.
Sridevi, the lead actress donning the iconic Rajasthani attire in a still from the film 'Lamhe'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
On the contrary, to showcase and reflect the western, young and upbeat traits of her double-role, all the western fashion inspiration from chic white co-ords to bold flowy summer dresses were brought into play.
The contrast in styling for both the roles of Sridevi was what helped in transformation of her characters and marked out distinction in personalities.
Applauded by everyone, the film also won the ‘National Award for Best Costume’ for its exquisite outfits designed by Neeta Lulla, Kachins & Leena Daru.
Juhi Chawla, the lead actress in a still from the film 'Darr'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Darr (1993) is popularly known for its character driven performances and storyline, but if you look closely the film offers fashion inspiration that can be directly traced to some of today’s sartorial trends.
Juhi Chawla’s costumes from the film 'Darr' (1993) were like none other. The overall dressing had a youthful vibe as she played the character of a college student.
Juhi Chawla, the lead actress in a still from the film 'Darr'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
The chic dress, the multi-hued and patterned long skirts paired with a waistband or the solid-coloured chiffon sarees worn with off shoulders and halter neck blouses – all her costumes brought in a refreshing change of fashion at that time. The costumes were designed by Neeta Lulla.
Shah Rukh Khan, the lead actor in a still from the film 'Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge' (DDLJ)Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Judging by how dynamic the characters, scenes and film’s overall looks still appear, it’s uncontested that Manish Malhotra was ahead of the curve with his styling.
Out of the many firsts that the iconic film Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995) has achieved, the costumes of the film still stand the test of time. Raj’s character painted a different style for the youth.
His carefree and take-it-easy attitude reflected on his attire.
Shah Rukh Khan, the lead actor in a still from the film Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (DDLJ)Yash Raj Films (YRF)
This brought in a new wave of ‘as-cool-as-Raj’ dressing in the Hindi film industry. Raj’s bomber jackets, oversized shirts, baggy pants, trucker caps and round aviators continue to be fashion goals for travellers, enthusiasts, influencers and many alike.
Kajol, the leading actress in a still from the film Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (DDLJ)Yash Raj Films (YRF)
The slit high-neck satin dress, the white crop top paired with a flared white skirt, the mint green ethnic outfit – Kajol’s each outfit in Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (1995) stands iconic and relevant even today.
Kajol, the lead actress in a still from the film Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge (DDLJ)Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Manish Malhotra, the costume designer for Aditya Chopra’s directorial debut Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge, ensured his costumes for Kajol who plays the character of a girl next door seemed like a right mix of classic and contemporary. The costumes and styling carried by Kajol in the film was testimony to the fabulously bold work and how it holds up even two decades later.
This romantic 90s starrer served up some seriously major fashion moments and Madhuri Dixit and Karisma Kapoor’s wardrobe were the highpoints.
Madhuri Dixit’s kurtas became a major trendsetter with Dil To Pagal Hai in 1997. The blended colours, lace, chiffon and sleeveless fitted kurtas were a rage amongst the youngsters. Her character showcased a young and mature woman in the 20s - this was clearly visible through her costumes. They looked ultra-chic and yet so comfortable. Given the film’s heightened style and focus on setting never-seen-before fashion trends, all of Madhuri’s costumes in the film were designed by Manish Malhotra and her entire wardrobe defined sensuality, beauty and grace - all at the same time.
Karisma Kapoor's chic velvet and metallic co-ord set from the film Dil To Pagal Hai (1997) made a fashion statement that complimented her playful character. In the film, she plays the character of a professional dancer. Just like her character, her cool dungarees were sassy and stylish. She donned pastels and summer looks in this film even before they were a thing. It was an ‘I am who I am’ attitude, and all her costumes reflected that. All her outfits were designed by Manish Malhotra.
The film is remembered for its iconic costumes. One of the most memorable elements of Mohabbatein (2000) can be easily attributed to the way Shah Rukh Khan’s character was styled and this dressing continues to be mimicked and replicated endlessly by his most loyal fans.
Shah Rukh Khan sported polo-neck sweaters and pullovers in the film Mohabbatein (2000) where he essayed the role of a music professor. The standout in this ensemble was his unique way of wearing the sweater over his shoulder. His outfits in the film were designed by Karan Johar.
Preity Zinta’s costumes in Veer-Zaara (2004) were a beautiful amalgamation of tradition and culture like her character in the film. Since her character is of a woman based in Pakistan, the references of her outfits too were from Lahore and Karachi in Pakistan. The vibrant colours and the delicate floral embroidery of her salwar kurtis were gorgeous.
The famous crimson coloured bridal wear in the song ‘Aaya Tere Dar Par’ sparked the design and inspired many Indian brides. Her stone ornaments were a sight to behold. Her costumes were designed by Manish Malhotra and Mandira Shukla.
If there was a Hindi film that represents ‘avant-garde fashion’ then this would be it.
Colourful and vibrant, the statement outfits donned by Rani Mukerji in the film Bunty Aur Babli (2005) brought about a huge wave in the fashion industry with Bunty-Babli suits. She plays the character of a small-town girl, who has an eccentric sense of styling. The collared and embellished short suits paired with matching embroidered Patialas and accompanied with jholas - this colourful ensemble made her character stand out and memorable. Her costumes were designed by Aki Narula.
Hrithik Roshan, the lead actor in a still from the film 'Dhoom:2'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Have you seen ‘Fire & Ice’ dressing?
If not, Hrithik Roshan balances it perfectly through his role as Aryan in Dhoom:2 (2006). There are two sides to his dress code – one is the completely grungy, relaxed and has a very passive lazed look around it. And the other one is a hot and fierce look that is hard to miss. The brief was to make Dhoom:2 the hottest film of that time.
Hrithik Roshan, the lead actor in a still from the film 'Dhoom:2'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Anaita Shroff Adajania (who designed the costumes of Hrithik Roshan in Dhoom:2) says the root of the word 'glamour' is itself full of style, fun, excitement, flirtatious-ness and yet there is a very strong street edge and not overly stylized in a more global manner. That's what she has tried to bring on the screen in characters of the actors and actresses.
Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, the lead actress in a still from the film 'Dhoom:2'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Aishwarya Rai Bachchan's costumes in the film Dhoom:2 (2006) served the right mix of sass and style. The costumes designed by Anaita Shroff Adajania were chic and all shades of glamourous. They were pacy, fun and contemporary.
Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, the lead actress in a still from the film 'Dhoom:2'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Given her adventurous and agile character in the film, she donned corsets and waist bodysuits even before they were a thing. The edgy costumes paired with her kickass attitude were perfect to the T. Sporting camo-prints, hues of green, knee-high boots and medallions as accessories, her outfits offered perfection in minimalism. From her makeup to the costumes, every look was on fleek.
Anushka Sharma’s costumes in the film Band Baaja Baaraat (2010) were designed by Niharika Bhasin. The costumes had a professional yet a casual vibe as her character of a wedding planner required her to be on the go. Though the most loved outfit was from the song ‘Ainvayi Ainvayi’ where she’s worn a royal blue kurta with green broad brocade border with zari and thread embroidery paired with an orange patiala and bright yellow dupatta at a client’s wedding. The outfit became a fashion trend during the wedding season that year.
Salman Khan, the lead actor in the chequered scarf from the film 'Ek Tha Tiger'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
In the cinematic realm, “Ek Tha Tiger” (2012) emerged as the pioneering chapter, marking the inception of the Tiger series and the YRF Spy Universe - a first of its kind cinematic universe of spy thriller films in India.
Within this world of intrigue and covert operations, Salman Khan, portraying the enigmatic undercover spy named Avinash Singh Rathore aka Tiger, left an indelible mark not just through his character, but also in the realm of fashion. His style is offbeat, sleek and breezy.
Salman Khan, the lead actor in the chequered scarf from the film 'Tiger Zinda Hai'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
After the film release, the scarf sported by Tiger, became an instant trend among the masses and the fashion enthusiasts alike. They were seen donning the chequered black and white scarf. Alvira Khan Agnihotri and Ashley Rebello were his costume designers for Tiger Zinda Hai.
This scarf trend again saw a spike after the release of the sequel film Tiger Zinda Hai (2017).
Salman Khan, the lead actor in the chequered scarf from the film 'Tiger 3'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
In the third instalment of the Tiger series, Tiger 3 (2023), Salman Khan yet again sported the iconic scarf, which became a statement piece for the character.
If there is someone who could carry European style with ease and elan, it’s Katrina Kaif’s character from Yash Chopra’s last directorial film Jab Tak Hai Jaan (2012).
Katrina Kaif’s outfits, designed by Manish Malhotra were sophisticated, simplistic and elegant. She essays the role of a girl who hails from London, and her outfits depict this major British influence. Be it her dreamy ensemble of her heavy embellished lehenga paired with a bold red jacket or the flowy printed gowns, the solid-coloured jackets, vintage leather jackets, edgy black skirt, her costumes through the film added drama and glamour of the story line. Manish Malhotra yet again, designed her outfits to emphasize the westernized look required for the film.
Aamir Khan, the lead actor donning the bowler hat in the film 'Dhoom:3'Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Short waistcoats accessorized with bowler hats, Aamir Khan's costumes by Manoshi Nath and Rushi Sharma in the film Dhoom:3 (2013) became a fashion inspiration in no time. Aamir Khan who portrays the character of a circus artist sports a derby bowler hat.
Shah Rukh Khan and Deepika Padukone, the lead actors from the film 'Pathaan'.Yash Raj Films (YRF)
Apart from nailing their true-blue combat ensembles as undercover spies in the movie Pathaan (2023), which was the 4th film of the YRF Spy Universe, Shah Rukh Khan and Deepika Padukone donned some street-style off-duty looks, effortlessly.
Deepika Padukone, the lead actor from the film 'Pathaan' making a statement in a street-style ensemble.Yash Raj Films (YRF)
While Deepika Padukone made some bold fashion statements in flannel shirts, ripped jeans, knee-high boots and corset tops throughout the film, Shah Rukh Khan also set some major fashion goals with his easy-breezy, sleek yet glamorous style.
Shah Rukh Khan, the lead actor from the film 'Pathaan', flaunting the iconic green paisley shirt in the song 'Besharam Rang'.Yash Raj Films (YRF)
In the song 'Besharam Rang', Shah Rukh Khan flaunts a green paisley shirt with a casual unbuttoned style, accessorized with minimalistic chains and his edgy man-bun. This ensemble added a touch of edginess and style to his character.
Their stylish avatars in the film caught the eye of every fashion enthusiast.
Excerpts from the book: They said it.. The Memoirs of a Love Legend Yash Chopra's VEER-ZAARA
