The Long Tradition of Japanese Pear Farming

The nashi pear: a fruit that truly signals the arrival of autumn. One enjoyed for its crisp texture and elegant sweetness. There are various varieties of nashi to be found in Japan, but they can be divided into two main groups: the ‘green nashi’ which have a light yellowy-green skin and a refreshing acidic taste, and the ‘red nashi’ that feature a brown skin and are sweet. In recent years, red nashi such as the Kosui and Hosui have become particularly popular. Ibaraki Prefecture has emerged as a well-known producer of these nashi varieties.

Fertile soil, a mild climate, and Japan’s oldest nashi production area

Ibaraki Prefecture is Japan’s second largest nashi producer with nashi growers primarily found around the prefecture’s southwest. It is one of the oldest nashi-growing areas in Japan, with evidence of cultivation going back to the Edo Period (1603-1868). The large shift between daytime and nighttime temperatures, an abundance of water, and fertile soil all combine to make an ideal environment for growing a variety of nashi, centering on the city of Shimotsuma and neighboring Yachiyo Town. The Kosui and Hosui account for between 80-90% of the total nashi grown in this part of Ibaraki. They are also joined by the new Akizuki variety in addition to the Shintaka, known as the ‘King of Nashi’ due to its size, and some growers are also producing the prefecture’s original Keisu nashi.

All the nashi grown in the fertile soil (akuto) of the Kinu River basin and the mild climate found in Yachiyo are marketed under the brand name ‘Akuto’. They are large, sweet, and have an enjoyable texture. Highly acclaimed in the marketplace, Akuto has been designated as an official Ibaraki Prefecture brand.

The daunting, time-consuming work of the nashi grower

Katsumi Kusama is chair of the Yachiyo District Nashi-growers Association and someone with over 30 years in the industry. He produces Kosui, Hosui, Akizuki, Shintaka, Keisui, and others on his 2.07ha (5.12 acre) orchard in greenhouses and on open land.

The nashi grower’s year starts with soil improvement after the previous season’s harvest is complete. Endeavoring to produce nashi that surpass those grown the year before, Kusama engages in a process of trial and error, focusing on environmentally-friendly fertilizers, such as placing mushroom beds in the compost mix.

By the start of spring, the work of pruning back unneeded branches is completed and in March, the task of disbudding the emerging blossom buds commences. Of the many that form, only the longest bud in the center is left to prevent nutrients from being dispersed too thinly and instead concentrate them so that larger fruit forms. When the blossom opens, the task of hana-awase, manual cross-pollination of every blossom, takes place. In May and June when the small fruit begin to emerge, fruit thinning is performed to get rid of unviable nashi. At this time, growers will feel each protruding fruit with their bare hands, leaving only the ones that have an even surface; this is the key to growing well-formed nashi and a skill that comes only after years of experience.

Kusama says that the most difficult part of nashi production is the ongoing battle with disease and pests. During particularly rainy years, black spot disease, which is a fungus that appears as dark spots on the fruit, plagues growers. Leaves and fruit that show signs of this scourge need to be picked immediately to prevent its spread and the trees need to be checked every day.

During the hotter months, outbreaks of spider mites are more likely. Kusama has painful memories of his entire crop being devastated after an infestation of these pests. He now deals with spider mites by using Phytoseiidae, predatory mites that feed on other mite species. This type of biological control is more environmentally friendly and more effective than insecticides. In addition, prior to harvesting, the precious nashi crop is disinfected once every ten days and protected with insect nets and synthetic sex pheromone traps.

“It is like we are starting ‘school’ for the first time every year!” explains Kusama. “Some years you get the trees struck by disease or infestations. Other years, there will be some natural disaster hitting us. You just have to try and learn through the experience of dealing with all these challenges year after year.”

The delicious sound of nashi

Nashi harvesting starts in June for those grown in greenhouses; however, the majority of picking and shipping takes place between July and the end of October. At this time, Kusama is the only grower in Yachiyo who has nashi in greenhouses. The reason he gives for this is that he wants to harvest and send to market for as long a time period as possible, despite the fact it costs more to manage and maintain nashi trees grown in greenhouses.

When nashi fill the trellises and are turning brown, it is the sign for harvest time to begin. The fruit is picked by grasping it and gently folding it upwards until it snaps off the tree. Then, without bruising the fruit itself, the remaining stem is cut back.

Kusama puts the harvested fruit up to his ear and lightly drums the surface with his finger, making a “tap, tap” sound. He explains that the presence of core rot disease or pests will be signaled by the lack of a high, firm sound. “I go along tapping the fruit as if to say, ‘You feeling OK?’” he laughs. He says that the most enjoyable time of the year is when, after so much toil, the nashi are harvested. The intricate, laborious quality control he performs is required in order to consistently deliver delicious nashi to the public every year.

New nashi for the next generation of growers

In nashi growing areas of Ibaraki, rejuvenation of orchards has become a topic of concern due to the aging of trees and resulting deterioration in their ability to produce fruit.

To deal with this challenge, the unique tree joint training system has been introduced. When dedicated seedlings have become established, this groundbreaking growing method sees the young trees grafted and joined to ensure that a linear, congregated line of fruit is created. This makes for greater uniformity in growth and minimizes pruning and labor requirements overall. Furthermore, this method can increase yields earlier and is seen as helping younger, less experienced farmers.

A section of Kusama’s land has been set aside for growing seedlings that will be used in joint tree training. “I’m leaving the joint tree training system to my son, who will one day take over the orchard. It is my hope that this new method of growing will also stem the decline in the number of growers in Yachiyo,” he states.

Something else that Kusama wishes to pass on to the next generation is Ibaraki’s original variety of nashi, the Keisui. Cultivation of Keisui is still limited, but being a nashi that is easy to grow and less prone to disease, it is expected that it will only increase in future.

“They’re so big and sweet! I am looking forward to more and more people outside Ibaraki getting a taste of it and experiencing just how mouthwateringly delicious it is.”