The Passion in Our Blood

The story of one color and the countless reflections surrounding it

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Rodica ReuSemne Cusute Association

In many ancient cultures from all around the world, red thread is a strong symbol. It represents fate, it urges you to follow the right path on your journey. So many myths share this common, powerful red thread at your fingertips.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Raluca NeaguSemne Cusute Association

Foreign travelers passing through Romania centuries ago observed how all shirts, no matter how simple or ornate, had red thread on their edges and hems. What is the story in this case?

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Rodica ReuSemne Cusute Association

Since immemorial times, humans have used pigments like red ochre in important rituals. The powder was considered to be a possible substitute for blood. Historically, red represented vitality, life and fertility.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Maria VisanSemne Cusute Association

No matter the time, location or skin color, we all have red blood and ancestral ties between past, present, future and our cultures.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cristina IonescuSemne Cusute Association

We can all understand the power of red drops

Blood was considered the most precious element. It was offered to the Gods in the form of a sacrifice, in exchange for protection and blessings. It used to mark a new birth, a new beginning, a crucial moment.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Angelica CostacheSemne Cusute Association

The red color continues to be present in our traditions and holiday rituals. In Romania, we dye Easter eggs red, as a symbol of the rebirth of nature. Charms braided with red thread are worn as bracelets or accessories for Mărțișor and around the spring Equinoctium.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Angelica CostacheSemne Cusute Association

Starting to work on a new shirt is a new beginning too

The fabric that we cut is vulnerable on the edges and we need to reinforce its protection with hems. A fine, rolled hem secured with red thread will keep it from tearing apart.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cosmina ChireleanSemne Cusute Association

This practical red thread is also charged with spiritual meaning, signifying protection against the evil eye. There is a fine line between admiration and envy, and many cultures which believe in the Nazar make use of such protective symbolism.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Stela MoldovanuSemne Cusute Association

It’s impossible to forget this principle, if you remember the parallel with using makeup to enhance and underline what’s important. We use red in key areas, for the opening of the shirt, on the chest and for the margins down the sleeves.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ionela HorgaSemne Cusute Association

One idea, countless shades

At first, before mass consumption, many women took pride in creating their pigments at home, in unique shades which made them stand out. A mix of art and science.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Laura LapovitaSemne Cusute Association

When the industrial revolution came and colored threads became widely available, many were puzzled by a new dilemma: how could they possibly wear the exact same color as everyone else? Thus, they bought those threads and prepared them with plant dye, to alter the initial color.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Gabriela EneSemne Cusute Association

Eventually, the concept of ready-colored yarns became widely accepted and women began to focus their creative energy into crafting even more intricate patterns.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Roxana ConstantinescuSemne Cusute Association

We, at Semne Cusute, wanted to reflect this tradition

Thus, we created our own desired shades of red thread, produced in a special customised batch by highly specialised professionals, at a large scale. To keep in touch with this authentic process, we named them in accord with the objects or feelings invoked by the colors.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Adriana VisanSemne Cusute Association

Trandafiriu (Rosey)

A delicate, romantic rose, like the feeling we get when we first dream about making our own traditional shirt.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Nadia NeveSemne Cusute Association

Drag (Fondness)

A sweet, raspberry red, which invoked the feeling we get when we found our match, falling in love with a design.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Laura LapovitaSemne Cusute Association

Ardoare (Ardour)

A hot, spicy, energetic red. Which feels like a fever when we’re absorbed into embroidery, making stitch after stitch, with fervour.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Daniela CofaruSemne Cusute Association

Pasiune (Passion)

A deep, dark red. It is like wine and is a boost of passion. This is how we feel when we talk about our shirts and embroidery. Our stories and excitement might be contagious so we might convince others to join our club.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Amalia PahomiSemne Cusute Association

Mândrie (Pride)

A heavy shade like deep, ancient purple. It is precious. This is what we experience when we wear our art.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Mona CristescuSemne Cusute Association

To stand out from other cultures from Eastern Europe, the Middle East or Asia, Romanian embroidery makes use of red in specific doses, a mix of techniques to create texture amplified by light. We juggle with white spaces, with visible fabric, allowing the embroidery to "breathe".

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Mihaela NemesSemne Cusute Association

Since red is associated with fire and solar energy, it is often combined with gold thread and sequins. As opposed to silver, usually reserved to blue, indigo and black, for a mirror of the night sky, moon and stars.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ioana CorduneanuSemne Cusute Association

Sometimes, small but powerful accents of blue or green are sprinkled throughout the embroidery to break the monopoly of too much red.

ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Claudia NiculescuSemne Cusute Association

This is how we take the famous red thread and use it on the fabric in order to write our narratives. We hope this story inspires you to follow your own passion and create wearable art.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

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