The Times of Fiber: Korean Embroidery Art

Explore the hidden meanings and exquisite craftsmanship of Korean embroidery, revealing centuries of tradition and symbolism.

By Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

The Special Exhibition 'The Times of Fiber:Connecting the Aesthetic Consciousness of Fiber Art ' (2025-05-08/2025-12-30) by Sookmyung Women's University MuseumSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Experience the enduring beauty of Korean fiber art. This captivating art form is full of history and cultural significance.

Woman's Court Robe (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Signs of Dignity

During the Joseon Dynasty, embroidered decorations revealed the wearer's social standing. Royal attire featured dragons or phoenixes. State officials wore badges that indicated their rank. These symbols served as visual indicators of hierarchy.

Egret Insignia, Unknown, Korea, early Joseon dynasty, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

Rank Badge of Civil Official with Single Crane Design, Unknown, Korea, middle Joseon dynasty, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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In the Joseon period, the rank insignia is a round or square ornament that was attached to the robes of royal family and officials, signifying their position within the strict social hierarchy.

Lion Insignia of Second Rank Military Official (Korea, 16th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Lion Insignia of a Second Rank Military Official

In Buddhism, the lion is considered a magical animal that upholds the Buddha dharma and the truth, and symbolizes authority and dignity. The body of the lion was embroidered in blue thread, with a gold couching stitch, curly mane and a rolled-up tail.

Double Crane Insignia in Gold Thread, Unknown, Korea, Late 19th Century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

Double Hopyo Insignia, Unknown, Korea, 19th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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Embroidered symbols on rank badges distinguished officials during the Joseon Dynasty. Birds were for civil servants, animals for military personnel, visually communicating their hierarchical position.

Woman's Wedding Robe (Hwarot) (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Hwarot is a bridal robe that was frequently worn for wedding ceremonies during the mid- to late Joseon Dynasty. Princesses wore hwarot for major ceremonies, while commoners were allowed to wear them only on their wedding day.

Court Costume of a Second Rank Chigimgwan (1900/1905) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Daehan Empire Court Costume

This court costume, adorned with mugunghwa (rose of Sharon) patterns, was worn by a second-rank official during the Daehan Empire. It was worn at official events such as meetings with the King or royal banquets. The mugunghwa was used as a symbol of the Daehan Empire.

Embroidered Folding Screen with Old Vessels (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

To Appreciate and Enjoy

During the Joseon Dynasty, embroidered folding screens for appreciation purposes were reserved for royalty and noblemen due to Confucian ideals. Screens featured auspicious symbols of longevity, happiness, peacefulness and other wishes.

Embroidered Folding Screen with Flowers, Bees and Butterflies (Korea, 16th century) by (assumably) Shin sa-im-dangSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Stones and flowers are embroidered, and butterflies and bees are expressed through drawing. This combination of techniques creates a lively and detailed depiction.

An-ju Embroidered Folding Screen (Korea, early 20th century) by An Jae-minSookmyung Women’s University Museum

‘Anju embroidery’ works were commercially produced by male embroiderers in Anju. Auspicious symbols that represent the wishes for passing the state-exam, longevity, comfortable senior life, and conjugal harmony are beautifully embroidered across the screen.

Embroidered Folding Screen with Ritual Vessels (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Since the 20th century, lifestyle changes led to the production of many ceremonial folding screens for ancestral rites. At the same time, folding screens made for art appreciation continued to be popular, driven by trends in antique and art collecting.

Chest-on-Chest with Embroidered Panels_detail (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Wishes for Fortune

For centuries, people have sought a long, healthy, and happy life, seeing it as a great blessing. Across East Asia, many symbols have been used to represent this desire for longevity, but the grouping of the "ten longevity symbols," or sipjangsaeng, is a motif unique to Korea.

Spoon and Chopsticks Case (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Sipjangsaeng: The ten longevity symbols

The ten longevity symbols used to decorate and wish for health and happiness are the sun, mountain, stone, water, cloud, pine tree, mushroom of immortality, turtle, crane, and deer.

Embroidered Key Holder (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidered Key Holder

This key holder was given to a daughter when marrying her off, so it also had an ornamental purpose. This particular key holder was embroidered with exquisite bird and flower designs and a tassel.

Pouch (Korea, 19th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Peony

The peony, often called the "queen of flowers," is prized for its large size and vibrant, luxurious colors. It symbolizes wealth and good fortune. This popular motif can be found on folding screens in women's living rooms, as well as on everyday items like pockets, spoon cases.

Spectacle Case, Unknown, Korea, 19th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

Baby's Hat_detail, Unknown, Korea, 19th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

Wrapping Cloth for Wrapping the Wooden Wild Goose Used During Wedding Ceremony, Unknown, Korea, 19th century, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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Humans have always yearned for a long, healthy, and prosperous life, not just for themselves but for their descendants too. This universal desire is reflected in the art and design found in every aspect of our lives.

The Special Exhibition 'The Times of Fiber:Connecting the Aesthetic Consciousness of Fiber Art ' (2025-05-08/2025-12-30) by Sookmyung Women's University MuseumSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidered Folding Screen with Ten Longevity Symbols (Korea, 1958) by Lee Shin-jaSookmyung Women’s University Museum

The Times of Fiber: Modern Korean Embroidery

Learn more about modern embroidery art that continues the tradition of Korean embroidery.→Read more

Rank Badge of Civil Official with Single Crane Design (Korea, Joseon Dynasty 17th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

The Times of Fiber: Recording the History of Fiber Art

Fiber art, especially embroidery, is the most ancient form of art which history can be traced back to when mankind began to pursue beauty. Explore the history of East Asian textile art.→Read more

This story is based on the special exhibition The Times of Fiber: Carrying Tradition and Connecting the Future, which was selected for the “2025 University Museum Promotion & Support Project” hosted by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and organized by the Korean Association of University Museums.

Credits: Story

Planned by Sookmyung Women's University Museum
Photographyed by Han Jung-youp and Seo Heon-kang

Credits: All media

The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

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