The Times of Fiber: Modern Korean Embroidery

A journey through the history and innovation of Korean embroidery, showcasing its cultural significance and artistic evolution.

By Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

St. Mary (Korea, 1940s) by Jeon Myeong-jaSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Korean Embroidery: A Modern Shift

Korean embroidery shifted during the early 20th century due to influences from Western culture and Japanese embroidery. Traditional Korean embroidery techniques met standardized education, blending Western painting styles with established methods.

The 120 Types of Embroidery Patterns (Korea, 1931) by Jeon Myeong-jaSookmyung Women’s University Museum

The 120 Types of Embroidery Patterns

This is an embroidered notebook that showcases the 120 basic techniques taught at the time.

The 120 Types of Embroidery Patterns, Jeon Myeong-ja, Korea, 1931, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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Portrait of Brother (Korea, 2002) by Kim Gae-soonSookmyung Women’s University Museum

This portrait depicts the artist Kim Gae-Soon's brother. Embroidered with the artist’s own hair, the work conveys her deep longing for him following their separation during the Korean War (1950-1953).

The late Kim Gae-soon was an embroidery artist and a designated Intangible Cultural Heritage holder for the city of Incheon. She dedicated her life to the study of traditional Korean embroidery and to teaching the next generation of artists.

Peonies and Birds (Korea, 1940s) by Lee Sun-huiSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidery in Education

In the 1940s, embroidery became a formal subject in girls' schools, standardizing techniques and promoting systematic learning.

Sookmyung Women's Collage Embroidery class (Korea, 1937~1947) by Sookmyung Women's UniversitySookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidery of Sookmyung's Logo, Hong Sung-wook, Korea, 1940s, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidery Patterns, Kim Ya-ji, Korea, 1940s, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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Embroidered Folding Screen with Flowers and Birds (1940s) by Kim Soon-JaSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Created by Kim Soon-ja in 1944, this folding screen with embroidered birds and flowers represents her thesis project at Sookmyung Girl's Professional College, a time when traditional crafts entered formal education.

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Modern Embroidery Techniques

This folding screen showcases modern embroidery techniques, with deer and bird patterns decorating an abstract landscape. It reflects a shift towards Western painting styles.

Embroidered with Deer (1960s) by Hong Sung-suSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidery in the 1960s

Reflecting the trend toward abstraction in 1960s embroidery, this composition uses simplified shapes of objects.

Embroidered Folding Screen with Calligraphy and Still-life (1965) by Lee Yeon-sookSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidered Folding Screen with Calligraphy and Still-life

This six-panel folding screen is embroidered with Chinese characters for longevity and fortune (壽福), as well as still life motifs such as clouds, roof-end tiles, ceramics, gold crowns, and bells.

Embroidered Folding Screen with Calligraphy and Still-life, Lee Yeon-sook, 1965, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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Each panel included colorful designs of Chinese characters for longevity and fortune (壽福) which are embroidered with colored threads, gold and silver threads and glitter. Embroidery techniques such as satin stitch, decorative stitch, long and short stitch, and couching stitch were applied.

Embroidered Folding Screen with Peony and Peacock (1970) by Hong In-sunSookmyung Women’s University Museum

Embroidered Folding Screen with Peony and Peacock

There are many embroidery works of peony and peacock designs that are based on the original paintings of Maruyama Okyo, the founder of the Shijo School. These peacock designs were a popular subject in Korean girls' schools.

The Shijo School was a Japanese painting tradition of the late Edo period, characterized by a naturalistic style influenced by Western painting techniques.

Embroidered Folding Screen with Peony and Peacock, Hong In-sun, 1970, From the collection of: Sookmyung Women’s University Museum

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In this embroidery, the peonies are rendered with rich detail and diversity. They are embroidered with padding to create volume, while the colorful peacock is depicted with shiny silk threads.

Double Crane Insignia in Gold Thread (Korea, Late 19th Century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

The Times of Fiber: Korean Embroidery Art

Explore the captivating beauty and enduring value of Korean traditional embroidery art.→Read more

Rank Badge of Civil Official with Single Crane Design (Korea, Joseon Dynasty 17th century) by UnknownSookmyung Women’s University Museum

The Times of Fiber: Recording the History of Fiber Art

Embroidery and other forms of fiber art are among the oldest art forms, with a history that stretches back to the very beginning of humanity's pursuit of beauty. Explore the history of East Asian textile art.→Read more

This story is based on the special exhibition The Times of Fiber: Carrying Tradition and Connecting the Future, which was selected for the “2025 University Museum Promotion & Support Project,” hosted by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and organized by the Korean Association of University Museums.

Credits: Story

Planned by Sookmyung Women's University Museum
Photographyed by Han Jung-youp and Seo Heon-kang

Credits: All media

The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

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