ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cosmina ChireleanSemne Cusute Association
Choosing an embroidery pattern for a Romanian traditional shirt is a journey in itself. For some it’s an instinctive, almost magical process of love at first sight, as the design often speaks to you.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ioana CorduneanuSemne Cusute Association
For others, it’s a long and intricate search
Every line and symbol is scrutinized. Sometimes, through a particular pattern, one might seek to reconnect with their roots. There are instances where the pattern seems to choose you. Some enjoy the challenge of working with patterns that others may overlook or even avoid.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ioana Odeta IonitaSemne Cusute Association
However, the process of choosing a pattern is never complete without recognizing its origin and honoring its creator.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Antoanela IordacheSemne Cusute Association
Elena C. Cornescu, Maria I. Panaitescu, Elena Cuparencu, Dimitrie Comșa, Enrich Kolbenheyer, are true saviours of traditional patterns, researchers who documented and archived these designs, to whom we owe our gratitude.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Gabriela EneSemne Cusute Association
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Marilena DobreSemne Cusute Association
The author of the archival album which contains the patterns we recreated and displayed here is Elisa Stirbey. She was a princess, a remarkable woman from southern Romania, who embodied the spirit of this craft.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Sorina AndreescuSemne Cusute Association
Born in 1870 in Buftea close to Bucharest, she was not only a woman of grace but also a woman of influence, favourably connected to her brother who happened to serve as prime minister of Romania.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ioana CorduneanuSemne Cusute Association
Elisa herself married not one but two prime ministers, Alexandru Marghiloman and Ion I.C. Brătianu. Under both surnames, she published archival albums of embroidery patterns.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ionela HorgaSemne Cusute Association
Her work was not simply aesthetic
It also carried the weight of historical and cultural responsibility with a deep understanding for the importance of preserving ancient crafts, in a moment when Romania was emerging as a modern state.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Angelica CostacheSemne Cusute Association
This also coincided with the time when the women's emancipation movement started to rise in western Europe.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Claudia NiculescuSemne Cusute Association
To promote women's rights and financial independence, the Queens of Romania, and other ladies from high society supported the fine arts and crafts traditionally performed by women: hand spinning, weaving, embroidery.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ioana CorduneanuSemne Cusute Association
They brought their work into the spotlight, choosing to wear traditional Romanian attire above the tempting latest trends coming from Paris, Vienna or Berlin.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Vasilica SanduSemne Cusute Association
A way to compete with the fancy attractions
The promoters of Romanian fashion selected the best patterns of the peasant blouses and polished their aesthetics, creating even more complex patterns and including the finest materials and needlework techniques at their disposal.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ionela HorgaSemne Cusute Association
They led by example, wearing and showcasing these wonderful creations at banquets, functions and reunions. Queen Marie of Romania herself became a fashion icon, wearing the shirts for photoshoots and taking advantage of the new technology of imagery.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Nadia NeveSemne Cusute Association
Preserving Craftsmanship
The ladies from high society established schools for educating new generations. They saw value in the intricate designs and harmonious byzantine echoes, which were at the time being endangered by the uniformity promoted through the process of industrialization.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Daniela CofaruSemne Cusute Association
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Cristina IonescuSemne Cusute Association
Today, we treasure their archival work
Yet we understand that if we aim to continue their mission, we must continue saving many thousands of patterns and simultaneously address new challenges. Fast and instant fashion are endangering our resources, our environment, and thus our health and well being.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Gabriela EneSemne Cusute Association
Through our research we observe that traditional garments gain value over time, revered by several generations of women. We come to understand that in fact the true value of these garments lies beyond their glam.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Aurelia RobuSemne Cusute Association
The greater universal value is in sustainable practices
Zero waste cutting patterns and a variety of needlework techniques created with several purposes in mind. Beyond the aesthetics, a properly hand-made garment has added value in its resistance and timeless qualities.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Ionela HorgaSemne Cusute Association
Before being heritage, traditional garments were daily life
For our ancestors they were something quite normal. Bringing heritage back into our wardrobes and out into the streets is a team effort, which we gladly do together in the Semne Cusute community, regardless of our age or background.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Gabriela EneSemne Cusute Association
A Romanian blouse is, in many ways, an example of democratic, participative and modern craft, and certainly far more than a simple peasant blouse.
ALBINA collection; Romania traditional shirts; based on old patterns gathered by Eliza Bratianu (2022) by Gabriela EneSemne Cusute Association
The interest towards it might increase or decrease throughout time, as all things are cyclical and that is normal. But this blouse has the power to reinvent itself. It is wearable art and we can take it into the future.
You are all set!
Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.