Be Colourful!
Polish printed textiles and garments created between 1950 and 1989 from the collection of the Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
This is a unique place where the history of textile industry meets art and fashion. Here one can see the biggest in Poland and one of the biggest in the world collection of industrial textiles. The museum's collection of garments includes over 3500 objects - mostly originating from Poland and dating from the 20th century.
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The precincts of the museum.
Printed fabrics for the masses
The pioneer of the mass production of printed textiles in the then Polish Kingdom was Ludwig Geyer, who came to Łódź from Saxony in 1828. In 1833 he imported from Vienna the first roller machine for multi-colour cotton print. Between 1835 and 1839 he erected the White Factory where he installed the first in Łódź mechanical spinning room, weaving room and cotton printing workshop. Nowadays Geyer's White Factory is the seat of the Central Museum of Textiles. The rich museum collection includes lots of printed textiles and garments, with a huge representation of the Polish products dated between 1950 and 1989 (i.e. from Polish People's Republic period).
Textile designing in Polish People's Republic
In Polish People's Republic period there was an official urge for cooperation between artists and industry. Wanda Telakowska, the founder of the Institute of Industrial Design (established in 1950), claimed that mass-produced clothing fabrics should be pretty and attractive. One of her aims was to increase the level of the product aesthetics. She insisted on the involvement of professional artists in the production of textiles. Artistic schools in Poland - especially Łódź State Art School (PWSSP), contemporary Strzemiński Academy of Art in Łódź (ASP) - educated professionals who would find employment in design units of textile factories. The designers looked at new trends and eagerly took inspiration from modern art.
Print quality issues
The artistic level of designs for printed fabrics was usually high. However, the final products of Polish textile industry sometimes had poor quality because of technical limitations, wrong materials or just lack of suitable resources. The fabric's appearance was often significantly different from the original design.
Printed fabrics - could everybody buy them?
The textile industry in Polish People's Republic was well-developed. The Polish state was the owner of all big factories (only small-scale private enterprises were permitted). Although the production of printed textiles was relatively easy and inexpensive and various techniques of printing provided a lot of possibilities in pattern designing, the fabrics were not readily available for all willing consumers (the shortage of goods was a typical problem for socialist planned economy). Sometimes it was quite a challenge to get some good-looking fabric for a dress...
Apparel issues
Although there were many state-owned factories which were producing ready-to-wear clohting, considerable amount of apparel were made-to-measure by craftsmen. Sometimes the only way to obtain a desired attire was to sew it on one's own. Sewing clothes at home by yourself or with a little help from befriended tailor or dressmaker was very popular then.
Floral patterns
Floral patterns printed on textiles are a constant fashion trend only their style changes. In Polish design between 1950 and 1989 there was a wide variety of floral motifs.
One-piece bathing suit One-piece bathing suit (1970's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Autumn leaves and their warm colours have been an inspiration for the print on this bathing suit.
Long-sleeved pleated midi dress (second half of the 1970's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
The pattern on this dress slightly resembles oil-painted flowers.
One-piece bathing suit One-piece bathing suit (early 1970's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
This bathing suit is made of knitted fabric decorated with a floral print which resembles blue pen doodles.
Long-sleeved dress with a wide sash (1985/86) by Barbara HoffOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Big white leaves on a blue backgroud look like a paper cut-out.
Scarf (1970's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Some floral motifs were inspired by Polish folk art and traditional folk costume.
Women's vest (c. 1973)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Short-sleeved maxi dress (1972)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Combined patterns
Simplified flowers and geometric shapes mixed together frequently appeared in Polish fashion of 1960s and 1970s.
Catalogue of clothing fabrics (1968) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
This set of textile samples shows 7 different colour versions of an extravagant pattern composed of floral and geometric motifs. Each sample has bold and vivid colours.
Sleeveless blouse (1970's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
This blouse has a psychedelic look because of the printed pattern consisting of curved shapes and flowers in vibrant, contrasting colours.
Scarf (1960's) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Concentric circles and scattered flowers on this scarf evoke the contrast between the geometric order and the natural randomness.
Clothing fabric (1974) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Floral motifs may also be subordinated to geometric composition, forming regular rows, columns, grids or zigzags.
Clothing fabric (1973) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Scarf (1970's) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Long-sleeved midi dress (c. 1986)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Short-sleeved blouse (1975)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Flowers and polka dots belong to feminine style; pink and violet are "girlish" colours. Why not mix them all? Violets and dots placed alternately make the printed pattern on this lovely blouse.
Geometric and abstract patterns
Going far beyond the ordinary stripes and checks, Polish designs for printed fabrics played around with modern art.
Neckerchief (1950/60's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
The pattern of this neckerchief is called "pikasy" and it was popular in Polish design of 1950s and 1960s. The term "pikasy" derives from the name of Pablo Picasso, but the so-named motifs sometimes resemble the paintings of Joan Miró, Paul Klee or Jackson Pollock.
Two-piece bathing suit with a scarf (1960's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Clothing fabric (1960) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Clothing fabric (1972) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
This pattern may have associations with biology. It looks like plant cells seen under magnification.
Clothing fabric (1966) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Scarf (late 1960's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
The clear composition of rectangular fields framed by a simple border compose well with the square shape of the scarf.
Scarf (1960's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Women's jacket (1980's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
The large-scale print on this oversize jacket resembles an abstract painting.
Scarf (1980's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
The red, white and navy blue colour combination is common on flags, but it is also popular in fashion. The three colours make a good match and give an elegant look. The pattern may be simple, composed of stripes...
Clothing fabric (1971) by Anna BrokowskaOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
...or it may be more complicated, with a dynamic composition.
Sleeveless summer dress (1958)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
No matter how popular the art-inspired designs were, the simple polka-dot pattern was constantly in use.
Long-sleeved midi dress (1982)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Paisley pattern
An Oriental design, paisley, had been succesfully resisting the changes of fashion.
Scarf (1960's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Long-sleeve midi dress (1980's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Not so serious designs
Printed fabrics in Polish People's Republic sometimes were quite amusing. Amongst the printed motifs there were images of things, animals, human figures as well as inscriptions.
Midi skirt (c. 1960)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Midi skirt (mid 1980's)Original Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Men's shirt (1985) by Barbara HoffOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
Summer dress "Margaretka" (1975) by Helena WójcikOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
The repeated inscription on this dress means "oxeye daisy".
Women's trousers (1985/86) by Barbara HoffOriginal Source: Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz
In defiance of dullness and greyness of the communist times
It is for some extent true to regard communist times as grey and dull. Polish People's Republic period was indeed quite gloomy. Perhaps the easiest way to add some colour and a pinch of beauty into one's personal space was to embellish it with clothes made of colourful printed fabrics. Clothing textiles with varicoloured prints made the everyday life in Polish People's Republic period a little more joyful.
Curator: Aleksandra Liberska
Cooperation: Lidia Maćkowiak-Kotkowska, Klaudyna Kukuła, Anna Piaszczyńska
Photo editing: Agnieszka Ambruszkiewicz
All rights belong to the Central Museum of Textiles in Lodz unless otherwise stated. For more click here.
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