Take a Cycling Tour with Travel Author Dervla Murphy

Follow the trail of her infamous journey from hometown Ireland to India

By Google Arts & Culture

1-Dervla Murphy

Dervla Murphy made her most famous adventures in a time before GPS, satnav, and mobile phones. Forced to rely on the hospitality of strangers, her trips, and the books that grew out of them, offer a fascinating insight into a world now long gone.

Murphy’s most famous journey took her from her home in Ireland all the way to India. Setting off in 1963, she cycled through Europe, Iran, Afghanistan, and Pakistan before finally finishing in Delhi. Here, we retrace her bike tracks for a glimpse into this incredible adventure.

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Murphy lived in Lismore, County Waterford, in the south of Ireland. She set off on her journey during one of the worst winters on record, traveling through snow and ice on her trusty Armstrong Cadet men's bicycle named Rozinante, a reference to Don Quixote’s steed.

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After leaving Ireland, she passed through France and into Italy, where she would have enjoyed spectacular scenery just like this.

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From Italy, she cycled to Yugoslavia and on into Bulgaria before heading to Turkey. It was during her time in Yugoslavia that Murphy began to write the journal that would form the basis of her most famous book, Full Tilt: Ireland to India.

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Murphy’s real adventure began when she entered Iran. At that point, the country was undergoing a modernizing process, overseen by Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, Iran’s shah. Young western tourists were flocking to the country to discover its rich culture, food, and landscapes 

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But it was in Afghanistan that Murphy really lost her heart. She loved its people, culture, and scenery. Looking at these sensational Afghan views, it’s easy to see why Murphy was so enamoured with the country.

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From Afghanistan, Murphy cycled into Pakistan. In the Swat Valley, she was a guest of the last wali, Miangul Aurangzeb, and in Gilgit, she cycled through mountainous valleys that had changed very little for generations.

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The final leg of her journey took Murphy through the Punjab region to Delhi. After arriving in the India capital, she spent some time volunteering with Tibetan refugees and working for Save the Children. She then continued her cycle around India before returning to Europe. 

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Later in her life, Murphy travelled extensively with her young daughter, writing a number of books about her adventures in the process. Her legacy now rides on through her travel writing, inspiring cyclists around the world.

85199 (1970-09) by John OlsonLIFE Photo Collection

Learn more about female pioneers.

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