1900: A Story about Changes of Women´s Fashion
Art Nouveau attire reflected the women´s emancipation and feminist movements
Two-piece afternoon dress, 1902–1903. Marie Hansal, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, Vienna (1902/1903) by Marie Hansal, K.U.K. Hoflieferant, WienMuseum of Decorative Arts In Prague
The new wasp waist silhouette: "goose chest"
The Exposition Universelle in Paris, 1900 presented the contemporary style style forming the distinctive S-shaped outline, a parallel of sorts to the curvilinear forms of Art Nouveau ornamentation.
The Art Nouveau silhouette was based on the female body, but was far from natural. Achieving a natural look was still obstructed by the persistent corset, that torture device which irreversibly impaired women´s bodies.
During the Art Nouveau period, the dress code of a woman from the middle and upper classes was bound by a prescribed etiquette that determined the type of clothes appropriate for many different occasions. A woman´s wardrobe was made up of a morning negligé, at home dress, a walking costume, a dress for an errand, afternoon dresses for making and accepting visits, a tea-gown, as well as salon, dinner and theatre dresses, and ball gowns.
"Costume de Trotteut". Walking outfit, 1908 – 1910 (1908/1910) by Lavirière Robes-Manteaux ParisMuseum of Decorative Arts In Prague
English Tailor-made Fashion is coming
With the progress of women´s emancipation, English tailor-made fashion reached the European continent in 1880th and with it the women´s suit composed of a skirt, jacket and blouse. In early 20th century, suits either assumed a simple form of comfortable walking outfit.
Ball Gown, 1910–1912. Detail (1910/1912) by L & H. Laufer. K.U.K. Hoflieferant, ViennaMuseum of Decorative Arts In Prague
New silhouette: an elegant, relaxed and natural
Around 1906, French designers introduced a new aesthetic principle into women´s conventional fashion. This trend drew on reminiscences of garments of the French Directoire and Empire styles, combined with Orientalist inspirations, namely Japanese clothing.
Hats
Shoes
Accessories
Eva Uchalová, curator of fashion department
