Collette Dinnigan: Unlaced

Exclusive to the Museum of Applied Arts and Scienes, Sydney, 'Collette Dinnigan: Unlaced' was presented at the Powerhouse Museum from 5 September 2015 to 29 January 2017. This was the first exhibition to explore the work of the internationally acclaimed Australian fashion designer. Featuring ensembles, accessories and archival material from the Museum’s collection and Dinnigan’s personal archive, this exhibition presents her signature lace and embellished designs in a series of striking themed sets. Realised by Anna Tregloan, an award-winning stage designer and artist, the scenes bring into focus Dinnigan’s unique creative perspective. They highlight the romantic, feminine designs that have seen her work sought after by a star-studded clientele including Taylor Swift, Dita Von Teese and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.

Collette Dinnigan established her label with a range of luxurious handmade silk lingerie. Created from French silk and vintage lace, her sensual, dry-clean-only pieces were the antithesis of functional, everyday underwear. Emerging in 1990, at the height of grunge but defying the dressed-down mood, Dinnigan’s custom-made pieces were snapped up by Barneys in New York and Harvey Nichols in London.

Runway shows are an essential part of Collette Dinnigan’s communication and marketing, providing an alluring platform to present the designer’s latest ready-to-wear and resort collections to influential buyers and media. These carefully crafted shows concisely express the designer’s vision for the collection and their genesis brings together a hand-picked team of creatives from models and stylists to hair and makeup artists.This ‘runway’ show was filmed with Dinnigan and her team, especially for this exhibition, and features over 100 signature looks from the past 25 years. Alongside it, behind-the-scenes photos provide a glimpse backstage.

Dinnigan’s bead and sequin-encrusted dresses capture the essence of the perfect red carpet outfit. The simple forms of the sheath and shift dress provide a canvas for her glittering jewel-like surface treatments. ‘Wow factor’ combines with classic design so the wearer doesn’t have to sacrifice comfort to be the dazzling centre of attention. The incredible tactile finishes of her dresses are a testament to the painstaking work and specialist skills of the Indian artisans who create her embellished textiles.

Sources of inspiration play an important part in a designer’s creative process, from defining the key theme or mood of a collection, to the design elements of individual garments. Designers are frequently asked where their inspiration comes from and how it translates into their designs. They take inspiration from the world around them, so articulating the often complex mix of conscious and unconscious influences, sources, links and references is difficult. Fashion designers prefer to compile their research, conceptualise, communicate and develop their ideas using mood boards, sketches, draping and toiles. Imagined and installed by Collette Dinnigan, this room is a journey through Dinnigan’s creative landscape.

Inspired by the birth of her daughter, Estella, Collette Dinnigan launched her children's wear collection in 2004. Seeking to fill a gap in the market between fussy formal dresses and mass-market prints and fleecy fabrics, Dinnigan’s enfant collections feature vintage-infused, embroidered, printed-cotton and lace dresses.The artwork for this setting was created by visual artist and illustrator Nina Fuga.