How a Leheriya Fabric is Created
Learn this unique technique of creating colorful and patterned fabrics
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A glimpse of a typical Leheriya workshop - fabrics at different stages of production can be seen.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Preparing solution for degumming the fabric (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A solution for de-gumming the fabric is first prepared.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The fabric is soaked overnight, and boiled if necessary, to remove starch and other impurities.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The fabric is folded diagonally and rolled, or folded like a fan before it is tied at intervals to produce the characteristic strip or chevron pattern on dyeing.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Rolled up fabric is ready to be tied according to the design.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A wooden stand like this is used to tie the fabric.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The fabric is then tied, according to the required design.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Tying of fabric for leheriya resist is done only by women artisans in their homes.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
These specialised women artisans are called Bandhere.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Leheriya ties are made with multiple ply untwisted yarn.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Keeping a tie to the width of their two fingers, each Bandhere imparts her embodied uniqueness into a Leheriya.
These traditional and time-tested techniques infuse a distinctiveness at every turn of the process, each singular object retaining a harmony with the craft form through the rhythm of method.
The Mixing of Colours
Fugitive or kaccha colours are used, so that the unwanted colour is removed, in order to give a pure colour with lines of graphic quality. The fabrics used are usually very fine cotton and silk, which allow the dye to penetrate the inner layers during production. Their diaphanous properties also allow for an interaction of colour and pattern when the fabric is worn.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The tied fabrics are soaked in the water before dyeing, to ensure that they soak the dye.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dye is mixed in a large copper vessel...
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
...and salt is added, to fix the colour for cotton fabric.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
See how the resist-tied fabric is dyed
Leheriya Tie-Dye: In the Leheriya workshop (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
When done, the dyed fabric is spun, to drain out excess water.
Removing the ties
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Once dry, the resist ties are removed.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya production (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The leheriya pattern is revealed when the resist ties are removed and the fabric is opened out.
Leheriya Tie-Dye: Leheriya textile (2010) by Badshah MianDastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Leheriya textiles here:
- Leheriya textiles from Rajasthan
- Badshah Mian, Master Craftsman
Text: Aloka Hiremath, Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Suleiman Merchant
Artisans: Badshah Mian and family
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma
Documentary Video: Suleiman Merchant
Curation: Ruchira Verma
