Cheorwon DMZ, The Nature in the Anthropocene

How the notion of the Anthropocene is reconfiguring the Cheorwon DMZ

DMZ from the DMZ Peace Trail in Cheorwon (2021-11) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Have you heard of the “Anthropocene”? The Anthropocene is a new geological epoch proposed by geologists to describe the very large extent to which changes in the Earth’s environment are caused by human activity. From the Anthropocenic perspective, the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) in and around the Cheorwon area is a fascinating place. What would make the Cheorwon DMZ very significant and intriguing from the Anthropocene perspective? 

Geologic time spiral (2021-03) by Strat188Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Anthropocene–“the geology of humankind”

The Earth, born 4.5 billion years ago, underwent the Paleozoic and Mesozoic periods, and is currently in the Holocene Epoch. Earth System scientists and geologists argue that the contemporary geologic time should be distinguished from the Holocene, and should be called a separate epoch “Anthropocene” given that human activities play the most significant role in the changes of the Earth’s environment. 

Technofossil (2008-09) by United States Geological SurveyCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

The notion of the Anthropocene has quickly expanded toward the humanities, social sciences, and even the arts. Critical scholars point to capitalism and anthropocentrism as the fundamental causes of the Anthropocene crisis. In order for humankind to emerge from the crisis of the Anthropocene, as they argue, new economic, social, and cultural systems must be developed.

The ricefields of Cheorwon (2020-01) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Korea’s demilitarized zone (DMZ) offers an illustrative example of the Anthropocene. The area has been shaped by a series of Anthropocenic events including Japanese colonialism, the Korean War, and the state-led capitalist development. The secluded DMZ area shows accidental restoration of nature in the devoid of humans. However, the surrounding areas bears problems of the Anthropocene related to the Cold War politics, capitalism, and ecological crisis.

Landscape from Baengmagoji (2020-07) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

The Anthropocenic Nature in the Cheorwon DMZ 

The DMZ, measuring a total of 248 kilometers, and the Cheorwon section of the DMZ in particular, chronicles the changes occurred over the past century in Korea and East Asia as a whole. The plains of Cheorwon, having undergone decades’ worth of human-led environmental changes clearly show how the Anthropocene has been manifested in East Asia.

Map of Cheorwon in 1917 (1917) by National Geographic Information InstituteCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

The colonial origins of the Cheorwon plain 

Cheorwon is one of Korea’s largest rice-growing regions. Yet, the transformation of the area into wide stretches of rice paddies happened less than 100 years ago. In the 1920s, when Korea was under Japanese colonial rule, the Joseon colonial government and Japanese agricultural capitalists reclaimed Cheorwon as a center for rice farming in order to develop Korea as the “rice bowl” of the Japanese empire.

Labor party headquarters in Cheorwon (2020-01) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Liberation from Japan and troubles with North Korea

Korea’s joy of being freed from Japanese colonial rule was brief. In 1945, the Korean Peninsula was divided into two parts at a latitude of 38˚ N. Cheorwon, which lies above this line, became part of the DPRK, which soon after established a Communist government, formed the Peoples’ Committee of North Korea, and constructed the headquarters for the Workers’ Party.

Cheorwon Methodist Church (2021-10) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

The Korean War and “the iron triangle”

Korea’s liberation from Japanese colonial rule was soon followed by the Korean War (1950–1953). Ceasefire negotiations started in the summer of 1951 but battles continued in Cheorwon. The “iron triangle” of Cheorwon-eup, Pyeonggang-gun, and Gimhwa-eup was the site of some of the fiercest battles of the Korean War, including the Battle of the White Horse (Baekmagoji), Battle of Sniper Ridge, and Battle of Arrowhead Ridge. 

Former CCZ checkpoint (2021-03) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Government-led “industrial agriculture”

Much of Cheorwon-eup, which was reclaimed during the Japanese colonial period but later destroyed during the Korean War, was transformed into farmland starting in the 1960s. Farmers turned the fields, ruined by war, into arable land. They sometimes had to remove landmines from the soil by hand. Much like the farmers during the colonial period, farmers arrived from all over the country after the Korean War to farm the land. 

Traditional strategic villages in the CCZ (2020-07) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Creation of “minbuk” villages

 Starting in the mid-1950s, the South Korean government strategically created over 100 “minbuk” villages. These villages intentionally built in the vicinity of the CCL to reclaim the area’s farmlands, and emphasize the superiority of South Korea’s political system over that of the DPRK. In order to live in a minbuk village, citizens had to show that they had a “pioneering spirit” and strong anti-Communist sentiments. 

The ricefields of Cheorwon (2020-01) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Rebirth of the Cheorwon plains

The plains of Cheorwon were restored from the wasteland of the war to rich rice fields. Cheorwon became a successful example of industrial agriculture in Korea through a tri-partite effort of state-led agricultural development, agricultural machines, and agri-technologies. 

DMZ from the DMZ Peace Trail in Cheorwon (2021-11) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Then, nature returned

The other side of the fence, the area inside of the DMZ has undergone a stunning transformation. After approximately 70 years of being completely untouched by the nation’s citizens, the former rice fields have been turned into a wetland, while the former villages into forests. In 2018, the National Institute of Ecology reported that the DMZ is home to 5,929 species of wildlife, 101 of which are endangered. 

White-naped crane 2 (2021-02) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Unexpected visitors

Beginning in the mid-1990s, the Cheorwon plain began to receive a special visitor–the cranes. Cranes come from Siberia to Cheorwon to spend the winter. They are drawn to the DMZ because of the abundant food resources in the farmlands of the CCZ, and the safe resting places provided by its wetlands inside of the DMZ. In the last three decades, the number of red-crowned cranes and white-naped cranes wintering in and around the Cheorwon DMZ has grown.

White-naped cranes (2020-01) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

The plains of Cheorwon are the most important wintering site for the red-crowned and white-naped cranes—both of which are endangered. Both crane species come to Cheorwon each year around October and stay until the following March. The rice fields after harvest provide the cranes with an ideal place to forage and roost.

Crane sculpture in Goseokjeong Pavilion (2021-07) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

“Staying with the trouble” in the Anthropocene

Cheorwon still bears traces of anthropogenic interventions including the Cold War and state-led industrial agriculture. Critters of Cheorwon are learning how to “stay with the trouble” of the Anthropocene. They make small but important experiments through which not just humans but nonhuman nature also can flourish.  

crane protected area (2020-01) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Living with the cranes

Cranes are welcome guests at Cheorwon. Locals explore ways of living well with these special visitors.

Harvest in Cheorwon 2 (2020-01) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

After the harvest, local farmers chop up their rice straws and put them back into the rice fields. This action secures and provides the cranes with enough grains to feed on. Some farmers even flood their rice paddies to provide the cranes with roosting places. Putting back the rice straws and flooding the rice fields may look trivial but very effective ways of supporting biodiversity of the wetland system of rice paddies for the cranes and other species.

artificial feeding 2 (2020-01) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Farmers and volunteers feed the cranes in the middle of the winter, when the grains in the rice paddies become very scarce. They spray the rice paddies with assorted grains, corn, and soybeans. Then not just the cranes but greater white-fronted geese and ducks also come in to feed their hungry bellies.

White-naped crane by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

Multispecies flourishing in the Anthropocene

The endangered crane birds cannot survive without Cheorwon’s rice paddies. So do the farmers. However, the economic value of rice farming has massively dropped. In this difficult time, the visit of the cranes highlights the conservationist value of rice paddies. Once a “rice factory”, Cheorwon’s rice field now nurtures people, the cranes, and other lifeforms. 

Searching for stratigraphic signatures 1 (2021-06) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

The past, present, and future of the Anthropocene

The Center for Anthropocene Studies at KAIST (Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology) explores the ways in which the Anthropocene is shaped, resisted, and also transgressed in Korea. Cheorwon and the DMZ is one of our field sites. 

DMZ Research HKW (2020-10) by Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAISTCenter for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST

The Center for Anthropocene Studies (CAS) explores the specific forms and processes of the Anthropocene in Korea and the broader East Asia, while speculating various possible futures after the Anthropocene. We learned from Cheorwon that life continues in the ruins of the Anthropocene that was shaped by colonialism, war, and capitalism: Cranes returned, and nature restored. We the researchers at CAS will continue to explore new and abundant futures. 

Credits: Story

Story: Myung-Ae Choi (Research Assistant Professor, CAS, KAIST) 

The Center for Anthropocene Studies, KAIST would like to thank Drs Yoo Seunghwa Yoo, Gisup Lee, and Su-ho Kim, Yong-hyun Park, In-cheol Choi, and Ji-hoon Lee for allowing and welcoming the research them in the monthly crane census during the winters 2020-2022. The CAS would also like to thank Kyong-Won Seo, Jong-Soo Choi, and Yong-Bin Kim (local farmers and residents of Cheorwon) for their help installing and managing the trail cameras.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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