THE AUTHENTICS –eternal source of creativity–

Japan Fashion and Lifestyle Foundation held an exhibition called “ＴＨＥ ＡＵＴＨＥＮＴＩＣＳ”. The exhibition presented carefully selected 'Authentics' vintage pieces from its collection. Western fashion were indeed very much inspired by these pieces. This emblem was embroidered on the breast pocket of a school blazer that was worn as school uniforms and uniforms of sports teams in the 1920s.

People start applying military items in “street fashion” from late 1960s. As the Vietnam war intensified, hippie movement had occurred. In order to appeal the anti-war, the youth was purposely wearing the field jacket or cargo pants which conjures images of war. Also, the jacket and pants with camouflage pattern was being published in some famous fashion magazines such as “Elle” (June, 1971) and “Vogue US ver” (August, 1971), which increased the military as important fashion images.

The history of uniform began in the 17th century when European Military started calling their clothes as uniform. Until then, each soldier fought in different clothes. Some protestant countries such as Sweden started to use uniform. Each country reflected the country’s symbolic colors; for instance scarlet from England; Prussian Blue from Prussia; White from Austrian Habsburg; and Tsar Green from Russia. During Victorian era in the 19th century, as a part of “gentleman education” at public schools and colleges in England, people started to play sports such as football and cricket. They wore caps, neckties and jackets as uniform which accorded to school colors.

Until the 19th century, sport had mainly been used as training for war, and riding/hunting as a means of socializing within the upper class. However, in the 1880's, sport became a popular recreation among the working class due to the coming into fashion of bicycles. Males played sports wearing tailored jackets and trousers, whereas females wore trendy silhouette dresses while cycling, playing tennis/golf/cricket, and even while bathing in the sea, etc. Before long, sportswear allowing more movement appeared, such as bloomers, knickerbockers, polo shirts, and sneakers, etc. In the 1920s, sportswear made of jersey fabric was launched by haute couture designers such as Jean Patou and Elsa Schiaparelli. From the 1950s onwards, sportswear has continuously been adopted in youth fashion.

Unlike Europe, where moleskin work jackets and tailored jackets became workwear, numerous workwear appeared in the United States such as jeans, bib overalls, painter pants, and coverall, etc. They were made of materials such as denim, hickory, and chambray. However, high fashion had avoided them. In 1969, Yves Saint Laurent released a denim coat. It caused a great sensation, with both fans and critics. However, no other designers followed suit. In the late 1970s, denim was accepted as a fashion material, and a new designer jeans genre appeared.

Europe's fashion has frequently been inspired by non-European cultures, such as Oriental. Two typical cases are Chinoiserie from China in the late 18th century, and Japonism from Japan in the late 19th century. Some of the most influential haute couture designers in the early 20th century, such as Paul Poiret and Madeleine Vionnet, also conceived many ideas from non-European cultures. On the streets, the young people of the hippie movement in the late 1960s embraced non-European cultures such as Zen. Into the 1970's, an ethnic folklore fashion captured the attention of young people. As the center of Paris fashion shifted to prêt-à-porter, such designers also conceived many ideas from non-European cultures.