Off The Wall

The relationship between art and fashion in Vogue

Model in a Short Black Strapless Ballgown, Vogue (1951-03-01) by Cecil BeatonCondé Nast Archive

One of the most legendary stories in Vogue is remembered as much for what was hanging behind the model—one of Jackson Pollock’s splatter paintings—as for what the model was wearing. 

Photographer Cecil Beaton used an exhibition of paintings by the abstract expressionist as the backdrop for a story on ball gowns for the March 1, 1951 issue. 

Model in a Blue Strapless Ballgown by Irene, Vogue (1951-03-01) by Cecil BeatonCondé Nast Archive

When these pictures were taken, Pollock was nearing the high point of his short but enormously influential career and Vogue was celebrating the post-war economic boom and the beginnings of Eisenhower-era glamour.

The juxtaposition of traditional, super feminine ball gowns with iconoclastic avant-garde painting proved the perfect balance of art and fashion.

Mdel in a PInk Sophie Ballgown Pictured in Front of a Jackson Pollock Painting, Vogue (1951-03-01) by Cecil BeatonCondé Nast Archive

Pollock’s splashes of paint made the gowns feel ultra-modern; in return, the gowns' heightened the exciting newness of the paintings while giving them an establishment imprimatur.

Model in Clarepotter, Vogue (1945-07-01) by Constantin JoffeCondé Nast Archive

Vogue had already put its weight behind the modernist movement a few years before, happily cheering on New York’s youthful Museum of Modern Art. 

Model in a Tina Leser Mint Green Dinner Dress, Vogue (1945-06-01) by John RawlingsCondé Nast Archive

The cover of the July 1945 issue, offering “Vogue’s Eye View of the Museum of Modern Art,” featured an image taken at the midtown institution by Erwin Blumenfeld.

Model in an Orange and Black Suit With Jacques Lipchitz' Sculpture "Figure", Vogue (1945-07-01) by John RawlingsCondé Nast Archive

Inside the magazine, John Rawlings shot a portfolio of fashion and large-scale sculptures. 

Model in a Blue Dress With a Sculpture by Wilhelm Lehmbruck, Vogue (1945-07-01) by John RawlingsCondé Nast Archive

Vogue editor Allene Talmey recounted the history of the museum and declared MoMA to be “the most colossally energetic, ‘desperately important’ sprawling force in exhibiting modern work.” 

Susann Shaw with a Transparent Globe, Vogue, John Rawlings, 1943-11-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Model in a Red and Black Checked Jacket, Vogue, Constantin Joffe, 1944-05-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue's Eye View of the Museum of Modern Art, Erwin Blumenfeld, 1945-07-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Mary and Thomas W. Phipps at the Art Institute of Chicago, Vogue, Constantin Joffe, 1951-06-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Model in Galanos, Vogue (1964-04-01) by Louis FaurerCondé Nast Archive

In the 1960’s, Vogue extolled the virtues of art as an essential part of a fashionable life. Horst P. Horst, a contributor to the magazine for over 50 years, was often assigned to document magnificent homes that held museum-quality art collections. 

Cy and Tatiana Twombly at Home, Vogue (1966-11-15) by Horst P. HorstCondé Nast Archive

Sometimes Horst even shot artists’ abodes as well. Particularly notable are the photographs he took of Cy Twombly’s Roman lair.

Peter and Sue Ann Reginato in their New York Loft, Vogue (1969-01-01) by Horst P. HorstCondé Nast Archive

Closer to home was the shoot Horst did of the New York loft of sculptor Peter Reginato and his then wife Sue Ann for the January 1, 1969 issue of Vogue.

Art by Peter Reginato, Vogue (1969-01-01) by Horst P. HorstCondé Nast Archive

In two pages, Horst was able to capture art, fashion, and an ultra-hip lifestyle—the dream of an artist’s life in the big city.

Sue Ann Reginato in her New York Loft, Vogue (1969-01-01) by Horst P. HorstCondé Nast Archive

In the 21st century, Vogue continues the tradition of placing fashion within a larger cultural context even as designers explore collaborations with fine artists, further shortening the distance between the painter’s canvas, and the couturier’s toile.

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