Spanish Gastronomy through the Ages: from the Modern Age to our days

Specialty dishes grew out of all of these kitchens and were slowly passed from one social class to another. Dishes that originated in the poorest kitchens, including pig's trotters, gazpacho, and "migas" (a dish made with leftover bread), spread to those of the wealthiest.

Similarly, as a result of increased purchasing power, consumption of the finest cuts of meat and the best fish became more widespread.

The Royal Store Cupboard

Until the Middle Ages, the royal diet was based on just a few foods.

The monarchs mainly ate meat—of all kinds—meaning obesity, gout caused by an excess of uric acid, and other metabolic illnesses were common.

The Hapsburg dynasty brought with it widespread wealth and excess, although it took a long time for their customs to reach ordinary people.

Philip V of Spain, grandson of the Sun King (Louis XIV), arrived in Spain accompanied by a French court, which led to the "Frenchification" of society as its customs were adopted by everyday people.

There were also Italian influences brought by kings and consorts, such as Elisabeth Farnese and Charles III of Spain, as well as influences from Dutch and Irish ministers. Nevertheless, French customs persisted until the late 19th and early 20th century.

This can be seen in the royal menus printed, in French, in "La Gaceta de Madrid," which was an earlier version of Spain's Official State Bulletin.

Famine in the Streets and in Battle

The late 19th century to the mid-20th century was a period of great political and economic upheaval in Spain.

With the loss of its last colonies in the Americas and the Philippines, poverty spread and an inadequate diet affected the armed forces, becoming one of the causes of their successive defeats.

Hunger became widespread, while the political situation was in chaos, with frequent changes of government alternating between monarchy and republic, and dictatorship and democracy.

The benefits of the few years of stability were felt only by the highest social classes.

Restaurants with French and German Influences

In the early 20th century, a process of industrialization began, particularly in Catalonia.

The first modern restaurants started to appear, almost all of which were French, including Chez Martin and Maison Dorée in Barcelona, and Lhardy in Madrid.

There were also some German restaurants, such as Gambrinus and Horcher, which set the benchmark for Spanish haute cuisine of the time.

Even More Hunger in the Post-War Years

The years leading up to the Spanish Civil War were very hard. The conflict from 1936–39 aggravated the situation, and shortages in some areas forced people to resort to eating by-products, such as potato peelings, or food usually fed to animals, such as carob pods or vetch.

There were shortages in all regions, although the extent of them varied from place to place.

Andalusia had an excess of oil but shortages of almost everything else; Valencia had an abundance of oranges, which were impossible to find in other areas that did not produce them; and La Mancha and Aragon only had wheat, as well as figs and grapes when in season.

One thing there was no shortage of was wine.

One month after the war ended, rationing was introduced throughout Spain. Ration books were produced containing coupons for obtaining certain foods.

The shortages fueled people's imaginations: they made "migas" with stale bread and fat, and resorted to the original recipe for gazpacho using little more than stale bread, oil, vinegar, water, and salt.

Prosperity at Last

The food shortages came to an end in the 1970s, when a variety of different foods became widely available.

Spanish produce became plentiful, and exports increased.

The cattle industry underwent a significant transformation. Poultry, pork, beef, and eggs—for many years luxury foods—became a staple on every dinner table.

Horticultural production developed in many areas of Spain, particularly on the coast of Almeria, in Huelva, and along the east coast.

Olive oil, a previously much-reviled fat, regained the prestige it deserved.

Farewell to the Lunchbox

The first coffee shops opened, serving sandwiches and pancakes with cream.

Bottled soft drinks started to take over from traditional drinks such as iced lemon, tiger-nut milk, and barley water.

The use of lunchboxes began to die out with the opening of establishments specializing in set main courses and roast chickens.

Spain had become modernized.

The Arrival of Modern Consumption

The Spanish Food Code marked the beginning of a new era and greater health legislation.

City cattle farms disappeared, while industrial slaughterhouses and centers for dairy and horticultural production were built, along with large chicken and egg-laying farms, and pig and rabbit farms.

Labeling became a widespread concern, and consumer associations began to emerge.

A Reimagined Heritage

Modern-day Spanish cuisine is the result of the widespread availability of raw ingredients, the influence of different cultures, and, of course, the creativity of Spanish chefs.

It is one that looks to the future, without forgetting its roots.