Zegna's advertising in the early Forties centered on autarchic fabrics. Autarchy, meaning economic self-sufficiency, was committed to producing everything that the domestic market needed internally, in whatever industry, and limiting imports as far as possible. Ermenegildo Zegna decided to create new brands to promote and market autarchic fabrics, for both its usual clients and for the armed forces, which were obviously stepping up their orders just then, the country having joined the war.