Choga (Shawl)

18th century CE

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS)

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS)

This choga is stitched from embroidered Kashmiri woollen. It has a floral embroidery all over. The traditional Kashmiri choghas have embroidery restricted to borders and back panels. However later chogas have all over repeating designs imitating the dorukha shawls or the Punjabi jamawars (fit to make jama).

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  • Title: Choga (Shawl)
  • Date Created: 18th century CE
  • Location: India
  • Type: Shawl
  • Medium: Wool
  • Region: Kashmir
  • History of Style of Technique: While well-to-do and aristocratic families have been the main patrons of luxury textiles, many others across the subcontinent too aspire to have them for special occasions and this patronage has enabled the survival of these opulent fabrics. Historical records mention the royal wardrobes and craftsmen specially employed to create costumes as desired by royalty. The kinkhab (brocaded silk cloth) was used for creating exclusive textiles. Very fine Dhaka muslin generally used for jamas (coat) was known for its exquisite craftsmanship and its fineness was judged by the fact that one could pass the eleven-metre or ten yards long cloth of one yard width through a finger ring. Jama, salwar, patka and the elaborate pagadi form the male costume whereas the exclusive costumes of ladies included elaborate ghagara-choli and odhani, kurtis, paijama and peshwaz. The sari in its myriad forms and styles of drapery has been an all-time favorite costume of India. Saris like Paithani, Maheshvari, Baluchar, Kuruppur and Benaresi are good examples of this tradition. In addition to costumes, furnishing materials, carpets, embroidered trappings of animals, palanquin covers, canopies, umbrellas, throne covers, bed covers, hangings, drapes, curtains and tents also form an important part of the royal textile tradition.
  • Accession Number: 51.32