With increasing demand of the long Kashmiri shawls (shoulder mantle) in the European market in the 19th century, the traditional Kashmiri patterns started to vanish. The size of kalgi (paisley) in the pallu increased, hashia (borders which run the length of the shawl) and zanjir (the narrow horizontal borders between the pallu and the field of the shawl) declined and matan (central field) almost disappeared.
This shawl is a typical example of shoulder mantle popular in Europe. The shawl is made on a semi automated jacquard loom invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in Europe and was first demonstrated in 180TXT-1. This invention caused a major set back to the hand woven and embroidered Kashmir shawls. It is said that the wife of Napoleon Bonapart was instrumental in popularizing the fashion of Kashmiri shawls in Europe.