Afternoon dress

This highly fashionable reception gown formed part of Miss Heather Firbank's wardrobe. She was daughter of the affluent Member of Parliament Sir Thomas Firbank and sister of the novelist Ronald Firbank. Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon), the society dressmaker, possibly designed this dress. She was famous for her feminine designs, subtle use of colour and fine dressmaking details.

The gown has a wide, high-waisted sash which ties behind in an enormous butterfly bow. The bow is entirely decorative. Although it looks soft and supple, it is actually lined with stiff organza and is wired at the edges. The bodice and sleeves are cut in one piece. A silk machine-lace panel attached at the bust forms the overtunic which is gathered at the waist and falls in soft folds to the hips. The high frilled neck, narrow cuffs and draped, divided skirt are edged with brown skunk fur. Fur trimmings were very much in fashion during this period.

In 1921 Heather Firbank's clothes were packed into trunks and put into storage, where they remained for the next 35 years. In 1960 the V&A acquired well over 100 items from her wardrobe. This collection forms an invaluable record of a stylish and wealthy woman's taste between about 1905 and 1920. Many items were shown in an exhibition at the V&A in 1960. It was called 'Lady of Fashion: Heather Firbank and what she wore between 1908 and 1921'.