Lucy Webb Hayes' gown

Taupe-colored gown known as ʺAshes of Roses.ʺ Bodice: satin, Basque-style reinforced with soft stays. Low, round neckline trimmed with bead-encrusted lace and fringe. Lace stand-up collar and lace insert at neck with ribbon drawstring at throat. Twelve buttons down front with embossed scallop design. Band of matching passementerie down outside of fitted 3/4-length sleeves. Lace under sleeves with ribbons forming cuffs. Back finished with tails. Skirt: brocade front panel with satin side inserts, both with satin ruffle along hem; satin drape across midsection and down left side; satin train with ruffle at hem. Hem trimmed with band of heavy tan lace. Train lined with three tan lace flounces.