Patka (Sash)
18th century CE
Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMVS)
Mumbai, India
Patka, a long decorative cloth tied elegantly several times round the waist is an essential part of the Mughal attire. The sash is tied is such a fashion that its decorative ends are displayed in the front. It had a functional use as well. It held a dagger, thrust into its folds at an easily manouverable angle.
The Ain-i-Akbari mentions that in Lahore alone there were more than a thousand workshops producing a kind of textile called mayan, consisting of silk and wool, which was used for turbans and patkas (waist bands). Woollen shawls and patkas were also articles of presentation during the Mughal period.
This patka has a plain field with six elaborately composed guldastta (flower bouquets) on both the ends while a floral creeper border runs along its two sides. Red, blue, yellow and green designs in wool emerge beautifully against the motia or pearl colour of the ground.
- Title: Patka (Sash)
- Date Created: 18th century CE
- Location: India
- Type: Sash
- Medium: Wool
- Region: Kashmir
- History of Style of Technique: While well-to-do and aristocratic families have been the main patrons of luxury textiles, many others across the subcontinent too aspire to have them for special occasions and this patronage has enabled the survival of these opulent fabrics. Historical records mention the royal wardrobes and craftsmen specially employed to create costumes as desired by royalty. The kinkhab (brocaded silk cloth) was used for creating exclusive textiles. Very fine Dhaka muslin generally used for jamas (coat) was known for its exquisite craftsmanship and its fineness was judged by the fact that one could pass the eleven-metre or ten yards long cloth of one yard width through a finger ring. Jama, salwar, patka and the elaborate pagadi form the male costume whereas the exclusive costumes of ladies included elaborate ghagara-choli and odhani, kurtis, paijama and peshwaz. The sari in its myriad forms and styles of drapery has been an all-time favorite costume of India. Saris like Paithani, Maheshvari, Baluchar, Kuruppur and Benaresi are good examples of this tradition. In addition to costumes, furnishing materials, carpets, embroidered trappings of animals, palanquin covers, canopies, umbrellas, throne covers, bed covers, hangings, drapes, curtains and tents also form an important part of the royal textile tradition.
- Accession Number: 56.17
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