Rumal (Handkerchief)

A rumal is a large square or rectangular piece of muslin or khaddar embroidered with brilliant colours which were generally used as covers for offerings to deities or for gifts exchanged at weddings and festive occasions. Many miniature paintings depict women going to the temple carrying offering trays covered with such rumals. Sometimes they are also used as pichhavais in temples. These rumals were embroidered by women including those of the royal household, during their spare time.

The Chamba rumals are distinctive not only by their technique of embroidery but more so by their complicated designs incorporating several human figures. The subject matter of these embroideries was mainly epic stories, legends of the Devi, of Radha-Krishna, shikar scene, as well as life in court. The pattern outlines were drawn on the surface with fine charcoal. In palaces and royal houses, the work was entrusted to the painters of the atelier leaving remarkable influence of the style of the Pahari miniature painting on the Chamba embroidered rumals. The outlines of patterns were then filled with black silk thread in stem stitch. After this, untwisted silk threads in bright colours were used in satin stitch.

This rumal depicts a king enjoying the music party. The scene is laid within a circle with bold floral creepers in bright colours. In the background is shown the entrance to a concert hall with people seated in the balconies on both its sides. The king is seated on a chauki reclining on a bolster attended by a morchal bearer. A female dancer is performing with balancing-pots on her head as well as her hands. Male and female musicians are playing instruments such as the veena, cymbals and drums.